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August 13, 2021
A Review of Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo's "Tapas Molecular Bar," Seven Years a Michelin Star Recipient | EAT
EAT | Tapas Molecular Bar
The pioneer of "molecular gastronomy" in Japan. This platinum seat with only 8 spots is actually the perfect chance to book right now!
In recent years, the number of restaurants championing innovation has grown, but "Tapas Molecular Bar" opened alongside the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo in December 2005, pursuing innovative cuisine for over a decade. Perhaps it's easier to imagine if we call it the pioneer of "molecular gastronomy" in Japan, exemplified by Spain's "El Bulli."
With a New Head Chef, This "Food Entertainment" is Gaining Even More Attention
And what's remarkable is that this establishment has been awarded one Michelin star for seven consecutive years. However, there are only eight seats at the counter. Before the current global situation, reservations by international travelers would fill the seats immediately. It was quite the platinum seat, and opportunities to visit were rare, so many of you might not have even known about it.
Kento Ushikubo has been appointed as the new head chef of "Tapas Molecular Bar." Under his new concept, he presents "an art gallery of 14 dishes that stimulate the five senses and imagination."
Introducing it simply as text might not paint a clear picture. Put simply, "Tapas Molecular Bar" is not just a restaurant for enjoying food. It offers guests "food entertainment" through dishes and techniques that utilize cutting-edge scientific cooking methods like liquid nitrogen and espumas, with tools found in laboratories or art studios.
I had the pleasure of experiencing this entertainment this past spring. It was two hours of pure delight.
Tucked away behind the spacious "Oriental Lounge" on the 38th floor, with its 5.4-meter high ceiling, are the 8 counter seats. It's an open kitchen, as if to say "we have nothing to hide," where a performance unfolds over approximately two hours. Honestly, it's enjoyable even before it begins.
I'd love to describe everything in detail, but this is "food entertainment" (I'm repeating myself because it's important). Since the many surprises are part of the feast, I'll introduce this unique world while revealing as little as possible. If you prefer to experience it with a completely fresh perspective, please turn back now!
Ushikubo, who has a unique background, having grown up in Canada from childhood and studied art, has introduced a new concept: "an art gallery of 14 dishes that stimulate the five senses and imagination."
An appetizer you finish by operating a syringe yourself, a clam chowder that's frozen on the outside but hot within, a one-plate dish featuring what looks like a fried egg at its center – a succession of creative and innovative dishes unlike any I've encountered before are presented.
Dishes like "Goldfish's Escape" and "Wagyu That Traveled to Montreal" have names that spark joy! It's so much fun! My eyes light up with every presentation.
"Goldfish's Escape" is an artistic dessert inspired by Ushikubo's childhood dream of a goldfish trying to escape its bowl, embodying the goldfish's wish coming true. "Wagyu That Traveled to Montreal" is a dish where Ushikubo, who was born and raised in Canada, likens himself to Wagyu, incorporating a story of "Japanese Wagyu traveling to Montreal and returning seasoned with local flavors."
Don't miss the transparent potato side dish! And "After Eight" is a dessert that resembles a cigar. When you eat it, white smoke comes out of your nose (apparently, it's now offered with different flavors and names). You might wonder how to eat it, but the chefs and sommeliers will show you how (laughs). Not only is the presentation of the food itself delightful, but the chefs and sommeliers also introduce the dishes with occasional jokes. All the staff are entertainers; it's impossible not to have a good time.
You can also choose a pairing with wine or mocktails. The wines are selected by Chef Sommelier Akihiko Nosaka, who has won awards in international competitions – they are undoubtedly excellent. Pairings are also offered with sake and umeshu. The non-alcoholic pairings are also quite adventurous, making them another intriguing option.
Oh, perhaps I've written a bit too much? Don't worry, you'll still have a thoroughly enjoyable experience even with prior knowledge!
First and foremost, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo is a treasure trove of gastronomy. The hotel houses 12 dining and bar establishments. Besides "Tapas Molecular Bar," French fine dining "Signature" and Cantonese cuisine "Senses" have also earned Michelin stars, while "Pizza Bar on 38th" is listed as a Bib Gourmand.
When traveling abroad is difficult, why not experience a taste of international travel through cuisine at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo's restaurants, including "Tapas Molecular Bar"?
Tapas Molecular Bar
- Location | 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo
- Hours | One seating per night, starting at 17:30. Advance reservation required for up to 8 guests.
- Closed | Tuesdays, Wednesdays
- Price | ¥25,300 (14-course menu)
- *Wine pairing (7 types) ¥13,200
- *Mocktail pairing (6 types) ¥8,800
- *Alcohol service may be affected by states of emergency or other circumstances.
- *All prices include tax, service charge separate.