Essay Series: Musings of #ijichiman - The Mikawashima Chapter
LOUNGE / EAT
October 10, 2019

Essay Series: Musings of #ijichiman - The Mikawashima Chapter

The 12th Installment: Mikawashima, A City Adjusting to a New Era While Preserving Its History

"It's wrong to insist solely on the safety and security of the physical body, disregarding the life and death of the soul and spirit" (Yukio Mishima)
In this series by Yasutake Ijichi, a board member of Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, he delves into the diverse, human aspects of the city that stand in stark contrast to the ultimate healthfulness of Sunshine Juice.
He unearths these elements, exploring the city's history, transformations, customs, and culture. For this 12th installment, he walks through Mikawashima, a deep-rooted downtown area offering a different kind of Korean town experience than Shin-Okubo.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
A City That Embraces the Times While Maintaining Traditional Lifestyles and Customs

Fūeki ryūkō. This is a haiku principle espoused by Matsuo Bashō.

It means, "Without unchanging truths, the foundation cannot stand, and without change, there is no new development." What I like about this phrase is the interpretation that the root of both unchanging truth and change is the same: that the very essence of the unchanging is born from continuous change, and adherence to the unchanging naturally gives rise to change.

For example, there was once a boom in "third-wave coffee." The style of meticulously preparing each cup by hand-dripping beans, ground before the customer's eyes with a focus on origin and method, became popular. This style resonates with Japan's long-established coffee shop culture, and it's a well-known story that the founder of Blue Bottle Coffee ignited the boom by adopting this approach.
Conversely, perhaps as a reaction to this, "Showa retro" and "nostalgia" have been steadily gaining popularity recently. While writing more might make this complicated, as they say, trends come full circle, and that's precisely what's happening.
And so, Mikawashima.
I lived in Shin-Okubo for about ten years, from my adolescence. It goes without saying that it's a Korean town. Back when I moved there, Shin-Okubo was a genuine Korean town; if you went down the back alleys connecting Okubo Dori and Shokuan Dori, the street signs had Korean on the top line and Japanese on the bottom.
Korean restaurant
Korean restaurant
Mikawashima
Mikawashima
Upon exiting the station and heading left on Otakebashi Dori towards Oji, you'll soon find a very compact market, easily overlooked, known as "Mikawashima Korean Market." At the very back of this market is a famous Korean grocery store, "Maruman Shoten."
Maruman
Maruman
It's not a place you'd likely enter unless you were local or had a penchant for this kind of establishment, but it's a very warm place. Upon entering, an old-fashioned cigarette vending machine, a sight rarely seen now, stands imposingly like a club bouncer. The tables you're led to are game-machine tables.
Cafe Terrace Wien
Cafe Terrace Wien
As I was leaving, they asked, "Was the carrot tea okay? Please come again." The ladies, who might seem a bit bold at first glance, are actually all kind and warm. The charm of Wien lies in it being a comfortable place for everyone, from the staff to local friends and first-time visitors.
Very close to Wien is "Yamada-ya," a yakiniku restaurant renowned throughout the area. True to its noren (shop curtain) that reads "Tavern," this establishment, loved by local regulars, was founded in 1964, two years after the Mikawashima accident. It's now a popular spot, attracting not only locals but also customers who travel from afar.
Yet, they are welcoming to outsiders, there's no issue with getting a reservation, and they greet you with smiles. Of course, the place is filled with smoke, so you'll want to put your jacket in a plastic bag beforehand, but the meat served is exquisite.
The sashimi, with its perfect freshness and preparation—which they apparently used to serve raw—is smooth, plump, and crisp, boasting a "three-beat" quality superior to Kazuo Matsui or Koichi Akiyama. Not only the staples like tongue and skirt steak, but even rare cuts like pork jowl (men-abura) are grilled to a crispy exterior while remaining plump inside, offering an ecstatic experience. The meat, meticulously prepared with exceptional freshness, is at its most delicious. This is where the unchanging truth is vividly demonstrated.
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Yamada-ya
Perhaps influenced by the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, not just Shin-Okubo but many towns have drastically changed in the last five to ten years. While some people and shops strive to preserve tradition and history, others are completely covered by what seem to be fleeting trends. People often seek change, but sudden changes involve risks and challenges, and if that continues, it can lead to exhaustion. When you're tired of the dizzying changes of daily life, perhaps a visit to Mikawashima is in order—a city that quietly adapts to the times by gradually incorporating the era and trends while preserving its old ways and customs.
Maruman Shoten
Address | 1-4-22 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL | 03-3807-3616
Hours | 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM; Irregular holidays
Cafe Terrace Wien
Address | 3-61-7 Arakawa, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL | 03-3807-6666
Hours | 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM; Irregular holidays
Yamada-ya
Address | 3-18-10 Higashi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL | 03-3807-6787
Hours | Tuesdays - Fridays: 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM
Saturdays: 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM / 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM (Last order 9:30 PM)
Closed Sundays and Mondays
Yasutake Ijichi
Representative Director, Sunshine Juice Inc. Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. He then moved to a PR firm, where he was involved in planning and managing marketing, communication, and branding from a PR perspective. He resigned at age 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school for over 20 years, he founded Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and currently holds his position. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are pure coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman

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