A gathering of gourmands in Tokyo's Shibuya. An innovative French menu by a visionary chef at the ultra-exclusive "Comptoir Feu" for one night only | EAT
EAT | C.F.S.A
An array of exquisite ingredients. Chef Ayumu Sato of the acclaimed "Comptoir Feu" presents a full course, each dish overflowing with emotion.
On Sunday, March 21, 2021, the exclusive one-night-only premium dining event "C.F.S.A" (Comptoir Feu Sato Ayumu) was held at "CÉ LA VI TOKYO" in Shibuya, Tokyo. Originally scheduled for late January 2021, the event was postponed due to the spread of COVID-19 and the declaration of a state of emergency. On the day, the event hours were moved up, and it was finally held with thorough safety measures in place.
Photographs by Kaku Ohtaki | Text by Shiori Suzuki (Smartmedia) | Edit by Takashi Tsuchida
The dawn of a new entertainment: where "Food x Music x Diverse Cultures" converge.
This "C.F.S.A" was held in two sessions, lunch and evening, with only 30 seats available for each. The lucky foodies who managed to secure these coveted seats were eager for the cuisine prepared by Ayumu Sato, the owner-chef of "Comptoir Feu," one of Japan's most notoriously difficult-to-book restaurants. Comptoir Feu in Kitashinchi, Osaka, is a legendary establishment, known for being by "invitation only," with a "non-public address and phone number," and a "per-person cost of ¥70,000-¥80,000," yet it is fully booked a year in advance.
The event venue, "CÉ LA VI TOKYO," is a dining restaurant located on the 17th and 18th floors of Tokyu Plaza Shibuya. Despite being in the heart of Tokyo, it boasts a commanding location overlooking the Shibuya cityscape and features a spacious open deck where a pleasant breeze blows. Since its opening, it has garnered attention as an adult social hub that blends music and cuisine.
"C.F.S.A" occupied two zones, the dining floor and the sky deck floor, ensuring social distancing. It was a highly anticipated event in the new normal era, prioritizing safety and security.
Chef Sato is renowned for his unconventional culinary style, which, while based in French cuisine, breaks all boundaries. He is praised as a "mad genius" for his daring combinations and cooking methods that defy imagination, utilizing premium ingredients such as sea urchin, caviar, foie gras, and truffles. However, this alone does not account for his status as a top chef.
The Tosa beef fillet, served as the main dish that day, "Tosa Beef Fillet with Black Vinegar and Scallion Oil," was a last-minute addition, with Chef Sato discovering it by chance just a week prior. Although "Comptoir Feu" rarely uses beef, the chef has a flexibility to immediately incorporate ingredients that he personally finds delicious.
Furthermore, Chef Sato's charm lies in his refusal to be confined by his own style.
For example, the appetizers "Toro and Rice Tartare with Caviar" and "Marinated Natural Scallops" featured a dish inspired by "CÉ LA VI TOKYO's" signature menu. Transcending French boundaries, the proposal, which infused ethnic cuisine with the essence of "Comptoir Feu," created the illusion of reaching a climax with the very first course.
"As we continue to pursue various collaborative projects, I want to challenge myself to co-create signature dishes with our collaborators, whether they be venues, restaurants, or chefs," said Chef Sato.
The course was also interspersed with seasonal ingredients that evoke the feeling of spring. Chef Sato had gathered only the finest ingredients, acclaimed as "supreme" throughout Japan. From the rapeseed flower farmers of the Kizu River to the fishmongers of Sagami Bay, these were items that could only be sourced through strong connections with producers.
Now, allow us to present the full course.
1. "Toro and Rice Tartare with Caviar"
A starter of mixed toro and rice, generously topped with caviar.
2. "Marinated Natural Scallops"
A dish featuring "CÉ LA VI TOKYO's" signature menu (ceviche is a Peruvian marinade), enhanced with shark fin and ului, seasoned with a spicy red curry sauce. A refreshing dish with a squeeze of lime for accent.
3. "Kizu River Rapeseed Blossom Spring Roll"
Rapeseed blossoms from Kizu River, famous in the Kansai region, are seasoned and wrapped in spring roll pastry without cooking. "Since the farmers grew such excellent rapeseed blossoms, I've wrapped them raw to make the most of them," says Chef Sato.
4. "Cutlassfish, Blanched Leek, and Young Ginger"
Featuring cutlassfish from Honmoku, Yokohama, known for its rich fat content. Luxuriously finished with spring truffle!
5. "Kishiwada Bamboo Shoot, Butterbur Bud, and Bottarga Caviar"
Bamboo shoots and butterbur buds, a signature of "Comptoir Feu," are topped with shaved bottarga and parmesan. Enjoy the flavors of spring and the sea simultaneously.
6. "Langoustine Marinated in Shaoxing Wine"
Langoustines caught in Suruga Bay are lightly marinated in Shaoxing wine for about three days. Chef Sato's specialty, offering a delightful combination of plump freshness, rich aged flavor, and a sweetness that emerges upon chewing, making it utterly addictive.
7. "Tosa Beef Fillet with Black Vinegar and Scallion Oil"
Lean red meat from short-horned cattle, low in fat, is slowly cooked. Beneath it lies white asparagus from Bordeaux, France, chosen by Chef Sato for its bitterness, as he found Japanese varieties to be too sweet.
8. "Foie Gras Biryani and Soup"
Biryani, which Chef Sato has recently become very fond of. Foie gras adds richness, and it's served with a tail soup as a finishing dish. "It becomes like a soup fried rice, but I think this style is also good," says Chef Sato.
"Comptoir Feu" in Kitashinchi, Osaka, has just nine seats. Chef Sato's style involves a one-man operation, even handling wine service. In essence, "Comptoir Feu" offers the ultimate chef's table experience. So, why is Chef Sato now stepping out from his own restaurant to embark on a new challenge? Here's what he had to say in a direct interview after the lunch session.
"Instead of thinking about what's possible or impossible (during the pandemic), we should think about how to make things possible. Once you say 'it's possible,' all you have to do is make it happen."
Chef Sato readily accepted the invitation for this event. However, given his practice of cooking in front of guests and completing all service himself, wasn't there a significant gap in capacity to consider?
"Instead of preparing 30 portions at once in the kitchen and bringing them out, we divided them into several groups. Of course, the goal was to serve delicious food, but I was committed to the 'Comptoir Feu' style of cooking in front of the guests. So, I made adjustments, such as finishing dishes at the front of the venue. Showing the cooking process firsthand is the best way to heighten the guests' excitement."
True to his word, Chef Sato created a chef's table experience with a friendly rapport, characteristic of his style. Aroma and temperature are critical, and the "CÉ LA VI TOKYO" staff worked in perfect sync with the chef, ensuring not a single moment of his intention was missed, achieving flawless timing.
Moreover, Chef Sato's personal storytelling about the dishes added a wonderful layer of entertainment. Indeed, we 'eat with our brains' too.
"Comptoir Feu," which has won the Tabelog Gold Award and maintains a high rating of 4.57, is a leader in the premium restaurant scene. However, it is set to close at the end of this year. This decision reflects Chef Sato's commitment to continuous evolution, and it also connects to what he aims to achieve with "C.F.S.A."
He began his culinary journey at 18 and is now 42. While he has established a solid reputation as a distinguished chef, he felt a disconnect between his current position and the pure passion he had when he first started.
"I've been catering to the upper echelons of society, but I started to question if this was truly the right path. The profession of a chef exists because producers provide us with delicious ingredients. From that perspective, it seems unfair that only we benefit from it."
Chef Sato's decision reveals a strong desire to "give back to the producers." The closure of his restaurant is likely a prologue to further development. The second "C.F.S.A" is scheduled to be held at "W Osaka," which opened in March 2021 as Japan's first W Hotel. What are his plans for it?
"I want to create events where the producers are more visible. After all, it's essential for the people who grow the food to feel appreciated. I'm currently designing a menu that will allow guests to feel the presence of the producers, even if they aren't physically here."
How will it fuse and evolve with various events and merchandise handled by C.F.S.A Executive Producer Yuki Yoshiyama, transcending the boundaries of French cuisine and beyond? (Refer to this article for the story behind the creation of "C.F.S.A.")Read more about the birth of "C.F.S.A" here).
We must keep an eye on "C.F.S.A," a premium event for the new normal era.
Organized by | C.F.S.A Executive Committee & CÉ LA VI Tokyo Media Partner |OPENERS Performers | CARTOON, 53+84, FLAVIO, hidemi, MASANORI MORITA (STUDIO APARTMENT), na-na, NAOKI SERIZAWA, YAMARIKI, YUUKI YOSHIYAMA
