A Commitment to "Naturalness" by Minimizing SO2

The effort to minimize SO2 to preserve the grapes' flavor began several years ago. "We gradually reduced the amount of SO2 by about 10% each year. It has decreased from 100mg per liter to 35mg now. We also spent five years creating cuvées with zero SO2, officially launching it in 2007 and releasing it for sale in 2008," says the current owner, Michel Drappier. He himself has experienced severe headaches after drinking wines with added SO2.

To be more specific, there are other advantages: the winery's proximity to the vineyards allows harvested grapes to be transported quickly and pressed while still fresh. The press is located above the fermentation tanks, so the grape juice flows by gravity into the tanks without needing to be pumped. For the dosage liqueur (reserve wine used for dosage), they use a liqueur that has mellowed over 25 years of aging. Maintaining high quality requires doing many things that are not typically done or are difficult to achieve.

Reviving Ancient Varieties: "Quatorze"

Drappier is also engaged in other initiatives. Founded in 1808, with grape cultivation dating back to 1615, Drappier is a seventh-generation independent family business. They use organic grapes, cultivate 53 hectares of their own vineyards, and purchase from 45 hectares of contract farmers. As a négociant, they plant Pinot Noir on 70% of their vineyards, Chardonnay on 15%, Pinot Meunier on 13%, and the remaining 2% are dedicated to three local varieties—Albana, Petit Meslier, and Blanc Vrai—which have been cultivated in the region since before 2000. "Quatorze," developed five to six years ago, is a Blanc de Blancs made exclusively from white grapes, with 25% Chardonnay added to the three local varieties. It is undoubtedly a precious Champagne that revives ancient varieties, of which only a few hundred vines are said to exist today.

Featured in the Upper Classes of Japanese Airlines

Their commitment to SO2-free production and their exploration of ancient varieties, all while staying true to the terroir, may not be widely known or experienced yet. However, Drappier's Carte Blanche Brut NV has been selected for ANA's business class, and their Grande Sendrée 2002 for JAL's first class.
"Drappier, based not in Reims but in Urville, at the southern edge of Champagne just over a hill from Chablis, possesses a unique character among mid-sized Champagne houses. They were early adopters of practices that larger Reims-based houses overlooked, such as cultivation and winemaking focused on high quality, minimizing SO2, producing rosé using the saignée method, and a portfolio centered on black grapes. Their wines are characterized by a mellow, gentle, and serene taste," says wine journalist Mr. Saito. It is a house worth experiencing now, while it is still relatively unknown.

Considering the Effects of Global Warming in Champagne

"In the Champagne region, we used to harvest mostly in mid-October, and when I got married, it would sometimes snow. Last year, Drappier harvested in August. My biggest concern in retirement is the impact of global warming," says the sixth-generation owner, Mr. Drappier. His quiet words, following his eloquent sharing of his preferences for women and his Champagne philosophy, made us reflect on the undeniable reality that no one can turn away from climate change and environmental destruction. Later, during a tasting of the standard cuvée, Brut Nature, I was struck by its volume and its remarkably pure, natural deliciousness that seemed to soak into the body. It was a moment of profound understanding of what it means to savor the "naturalness" of Champagne.

Tasting Notes

Brut Nature NV
Grape Varietals | 100% Pinot Noir
Suggested Retail Price | ¥5,900

This Champagne achieves zero SO2 during winemaking and zero dosage (the liqueur added after disgorgement)! It has a ruby hue and fine bubbles that burst gently in the mouth. Made solely from the black grape Pinot Noir, it offers a voluminous and full-bodied taste.

Carte d’Or Brut NV
Grape Varietals | 80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier
Suggested Retail Price | ¥5,300

Drappier's standard cuvée, accounting for 75% of total production. While non-vintage wines typically have a minimum aging period of 15 months, Drappier ages theirs for at least three years. It is rich in flavor, with notes of toast, apple, and pear.

Millesime Exception 2002
Grape Varietals | 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
Not available in Japan

Millesime (vintage) and Cuvée Prestige wines are fermented in large oak vats, aged in barrels for 1 to 12 months, then matured in long, narrow barrels called "circles" for five to six years. They are then ridded and disgorged entirely by hand before release. Complex aromas and flavors of yeast, fruit, and flowers. Its gentle richness makes it a perfect match for food.

Rosé Brut NV
Grape Varietals | 100% Pinot Noir
Suggested Retail Price | ¥6,500

In Champagne, rosés are permitted to be made by blending white and red wines or by adding red wine liqueur during dosage, a method used by most producers. However, Drappier crafts theirs using the saignée method, where black grapes are macerated and the juice is drawn off. Its deep cherry color and intoxicating aromas of strawberry and raspberry are captivating.

Grand Sendrée 2004
Grape Varietals | 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay
Suggested Retail Price | ¥10,000 (2002 vintage available in Japan)

This Champagne, with a bottle shape inherited from the 13th century, is like haute couture, with every step performed by hand. To express elegance, the proportion of Chardonnay is higher than in other cuvées from the house. It offers a rich bouquet of citrus, floral notes, and honey, with a balanced acidity and a delicate, almost feathery texture that melts on the tongue.

With the cooperation of:

Drappier
www.champagne-drappier.com
Salon de Vinofull
Tel. 03-5795-2553

Inquiries in Japan:
Terravert
Tel. 03-3568-2415