The Creator of "Hakurakusei," the Ultimate Food-Pairing Sake, Discusses Their Commitment to Brewing—An Online Tasting Report on "SAKE×NOMY"
LOUNGE / EAT
August 25, 2020

The Creator of "Hakurakusei," the Ultimate Food-Pairing Sake, Discusses Their Commitment to Brewing—An Online Tasting Report on "SAKE×NOMY"

LOUNGE | SAKE x NOMY

The 15th Online Tasting Event

The 15th installment of "SAKE x NOMY," an online tasting event where participants can enjoy premium sake at home with the brewers, was held. The guest for the day was Iwao Niizawa of Niizawa Brewery in Miyagi Prefecture, a brewery that rose from the ashes of the earthquake to become one of Japan's leading modern sake producers. He spoke passionately about his commitment to brewing, particularly regarding their flagship brand "Hakurakusei," acclaimed as the "ultimate food-pairing sake."

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"SAKE x NOMY" is an online tasting project conceived by Hidetoshi Nakata to invigorate the sake industry, which was impacted by the self-restraint in restaurant operations and event cancellations due to the spread of the novel virus. Using the online meeting app "Zoom," participants can hear directly from the brewers about episodes related to sake and the brewery, as well as learn about the charms of sake, while savoring special sake from the brewery sent to them in advance.
Rare, Non-Commercial Sake Also Featured
For the 15th event, the guest was Iwao Niizawa from Niizawa Brewery, which was devastated by the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011, with the brewery completely destroyed. In just over eight months, they resumed production and have since become popular as a modern brewery equipped with the latest facilities. The tasting featured three brands: "Atago no Matsu," "Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo Sakura," and "Zankyo super7."
The three brands featured in the event. From left: "Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo Sakura," "Zankyo super7," and "Atago no Matsu."
While "Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo Sakura," normally served only in JAL's First Class, is a highly prized sake, "Zankyo super7" is even more special. Its astonishing feature is its rice polishing ratio. The rice polishing ratio indicates how much of the original rice grain has been milled away; a ratio of 70% or less is classified as Honjozo, 60% or less as Tokubetsu Honjozo, Tokubetsu Junmai, Ginjo, or Junmai Ginjo, and 50% or less as Daiginjo or Junmai Daiginjo. However, the rice polishing ratio for "Zankyo super7" is said to be 7%. This extreme polishing of the rice, defying conventional brewing standards, is a testament to Niizawa Brewery's advanced technical prowess.
Introduction to Brewery Facilities and Staff
Midway through the event, the brewer led a virtual tour of the facilities, offering an online brewery visit.
The facilities rebuilt after the earthquake replaced the traditional equipment that caused heavy labor, creating an environment where even young women could work comfortably. As a result, nearly 70% of the brewery staff are now women.
The youngest female brewer at Niizawa Brewery
"The most important thing in brewing is people. Whether it's the ingredients or the method, it's people who make the final decisions, so we want to be a brewery that values its people and incorporates everyone's opinions into the brewing process, rather than a top-down approach," said Niizawa, whose brewery attracts staff from diverse backgrounds.
"Hakurakusei," the "Ultimate Food-Pairing Sake"—Its Characteristics
In the latter half of the program, the brewer himself elaborated on the characteristics of "Hakurakusei." "Sake can broadly be categorized into 'sake to be savored' and 'sake that enhances food.' Hakurakusei is a sake dedicated to 'enhancing food,'" explained Niizawa. He described "Hakurakusei," hailed as the "ultimate food-pairing sake," as having a clean flavor that doesn't interfere with dishes, instead drawing out all the nuances of sweetness, acidity, and umami. "We've stopped our sales activities to liquor stores and are aiming to create a sake that is recognized by chefs in restaurants and traditional Japanese eateries," he added, revealing the depth of his commitment to brewing sake that pairs well with food.
The exterior of Niizawa Brewery, which relocated its facilities to the foot of the Zao mountain range, rich in water sources, after its original brewery was declared a total loss following the earthquake.
Atsuko Yamado, a kikizakeshi (sake sommelier) who served as MC, shared her recommendations based on her experience, holding a sommelier qualification: "Many dishes come to mind when I think of pairing with Hakurakusei, but I believe it pairs exceptionally well with white dishes like sea bream carpaccio. The combination of shirako (milt) and Hakurakusei is truly 'ultimate'!"
Recommended pairings explained from the perspectives of the sake producer and the sake sommelier.
The event also featured discussions on snacks selected by the brewer and the brewery's commitment to the rice used as an ingredient. While the next event is yet to be scheduled, the Sakenomy project is currently offering "Nihonmono Chef's Table," a video series where popular restaurant chefs teach home cooking recipes and suggest pairings.

Renowned chefs such as Hideki Ishikawa of "Kagurazaka Ishikawa," a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Kousuke Koizumi of "Kohaku," Kaoru Aihara of "Simplicite Daikanyama," and Hiroyuki Kanda of "Kanda" are introducing their recipes. In these times when dining out is often limited, we hope you will enrich your dining table by indulging in carefully prepared home-cooked meals and sake.
SAKE x NOMY VOL. 15 Hakurakusei (Niizawa Brewery)
Date & Time | Sunday, August 2, 2020, 6:00 PM - 7:30 PM
Brewer | Iwao Niizawa, Niizawa Brewery
Participation Fee | ¥5,000~ (tax included, varies by ticket type)
*The participation fee includes sake sent by the day before the event. Shipping costs for the sake are not included in the ticket price and will be charged separately upon delivery.
Inquiries

Nihonmono Chef's Table
https://nihonmono.jp/chef/

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