Why an Auberge is Recommended for the Discerning Traveler

Don't be greedy with three or four days; one night is enough. Make time for yourself, escape your routine, free your mind, and indulge in an extraordinary dining experience. It's a one-on-one encounter with the chef. The aromas of the ingredients, captured with your senses on full alert, the textures on your tongue, and their flavors will become your source of strength to navigate the accelerating flow of time, whether it's the lingering heat of summer, the vibrant autumn foliage, or the year's end.

Now, to the main topic. The origin of this feature was a conversation I had with Ms. Y from HOSHINO Resorts' PR department (she has since transferred to Oirase Stream Hotel in Aomori Prefecture; I'm sure she'll be launching many more great projects there. Keep an eye on this hotel!). She mentioned, "There's a chef I'd really like to introduce. He's young, but he's dedicated to classic French cuisine." Apparently, he's the head chef at Karuizawa's No. 1 restaurant, "Bleston Court Yukawa Tan" (hereinafter referred to as "Yukawatan").



I wanted to find out what kind of person he was.

And so, the scene shifts, and I find myself in the Hoshino area of Karuizawa. It's just under a three-hour drive from Tokyo, or a little over an hour by Shinkansen. As we all know, this is a popular summer resort easily accessible from the Tokyo metropolitan area, and it's also the headquarters of HOSHINO Resorts.


The restaurant occupies a single floor with a high, open ceiling, offering a total of 24 seats. While reservations are accepted from non-staying guests, there is no lunch service, and the dinner menu is strictly a chef's tasting course with no à la carte options. The staffing is luxurious, with four butlers for the 24 seats, a testament to their commitment to serving the finest cuisine at the perfect moment.

Page 02.The Truly Delicious Tastes Were in My Past

The Truly Delicious Tastes Were in My Past

Yukawatan was originally created by Chef Noriyuki Hamada, the renowned head chef of "HOSHINOYA Tokyo." However, flavors change with each chef. What is the second head chef of Yukawatan, Hiromi Matsumoto, who took over from Chef Hamada, trying to achieve here? Before I tasted it, I sought knowledge.

I learned that Chef Matsumoto previously worked at a famous restaurant in Tokyo. The vegetables there were delivered directly from Yamanashi, and although they were highly praised by both customers and staff, he honestly didn't find them particularly delicious.

Raised in Ogawa Village, Nagano Prefecture, with a view of the Northern Alps and surrounded by his own vegetable gardens, Chef Matsumoto's standards for vegetable taste were exceptionally high.

He wanted to leave Tokyo and work with vegetables that he truly found delicious, vegetables he had tasted in the past. In other words, Chef Matsumoto arrived here in search of his own gastronomic experiences. His "signature dish, part one" is "Satoyama no Megumi" (Gifts of the Village).

This is no ordinary salad. Every ingredient is a star. Depending on the season, about 70 kinds of vegetables and herbs are prepared using the most suitable methods, seasonings, and temperatures, and then meticulously arranged. As a result, each bite is incredibly crisp. The natural aroma and sweetness of the ingredients are enhanced.

"Scoop it up with your fork," Chef Matsumoto suggested. Indeed, eating different ingredients together enhances the complexity of the flavors, making it even more delicious! It must involve an overwhelming amount of effort, but the lingering sweetness requires no dressing.

Karuizawa thrived as a post town on the Nakasendo highway during the Edo period. The name Karuizawa itself originates from the pumice stone found in the area's geology. However, Karuizawa experienced a decline in popularity during the Meiji era. With the construction of railways that allowed passage over the difficult Oi River on the Tokaido route, the necessity of choosing the Nakasendo route diminished. It was then that foreigners turned their attention to Karuizawa. They introduced Western vegetables like lettuce and tomatoes for their own use. Thus, Karuizawa was one of the first places in Japan to cultivate Western vegetables, and the know-how of pursuing the inherent deliciousness of vegetables, rather than mass production, has been passed down through generations of local farmers.

Let me introduce another star of the show: the paired wine. At "Yukawatan," it's possible to have a wine served with each main dish. The pairing for the "Satoyama no Megumi" I experienced was a Sauvignon Blanc white wine. The label reads "Vincent Pinard Sancerre Florès." It's from a renowned young winemaker in France, in his thirties. It's incredibly fresh, like white grape juice, yet retains the full flavor of wine. This wine acts as a fanfare, making it impossible to stop eating.

The mocktails, meticulously crafted by Mr. Suzuki, almost seem more elaborate than the alcoholic versions and perfectly complement the flavors of the dishes. What's amazing is that these mocktails are also served with each course.

So, this was a taste I couldn't bring back to Tokyo. But this was just the appetizer. The real surprises were yet to come! This is just the beginning.

Page 03.A Delicate Aroma Blooms on the Table: The Profound Flavor of Vessie-Wrapped Pigeon

A Delicate Aroma Blooms on the Table: The Profound Flavor of Vessie-Wrapped Pigeon

"Vessie" literally means pig's bladder. The "vessie wrap" is a cooking method where ingredients are wrapped in a carefully prepared bladder and then slow-cooked by repeatedly pouring hot water over it.

The advantage of the vessie wrap is that it seals in aroma and moisture, allowing "the ingredients and the vessie to undergo a chemical reaction, creating a complex aroma," according to Chef Matsumoto. However, vessie is now difficult to obtain, and it's often substituted with edible balloons or parchment paper. Chef Matsumoto, however, directly sources them from farmers and prepares them in-house.

The dish is brought to the table before plating, while the vessie is still inflated. This is because of the delicious aroma that rises when the vessie is cut open. The butler cuts into it, allowing you to savor that precious moment.

Tonight's vessie wrap features young pigeon. The sauce is made from the pigeon's innards, enriched with foie gras, and reduced with consommé. The gamey flavor of the meat is balanced by the iron-rich sauce, and the low-temperature cooking renders it exceptionally tender.

Now, while this report highlights two of Chef Matsumoto's signature dishes, here is the overall course menu:

As an aperitif, with Champagne Rosé.

1Crispy Nori and Cheese
2Foie Gras and Corn Terrine
3Ito (River Fish) Jelly
4Horse Tartare with Sea Urchin
5Lamb "American Dog"
6Shiso and Beetroot Sorbet
7Four Ways with Ayu (Sweetfish): Fritto Misto with Vegetables, Monaka Wafer, Tartare Sauce Jelly, Consommé

Main Courses:

8Gifts of the Village
9Marinated and Smoked Carp with Beetroot
10Grilled Iwana (Dolly Varden) with Risotto
11Young Pigeon Vessie Wrap
12Assorted Desserts





This is just a selection. The quality and quantity are both overwhelming. The drink pairings begin with the aperitif. Who wouldn't be satisfied with such a fulfilling lineup?

And so, this report concludes. I usually have a habit of lingering over a nightcap in my room until late, but that night, I fell asleep soundly. I wonder why. It's as if I felt ready to tackle tomorrow with renewed vigor.

Karuizawa Kogen Church and Hoshino Gakudo

Speaking of which, have you seen the posters for Karuizawa Kogen Church often placed near the train doors on the Yamanote Line? That church is actually located within the grounds of Hotel Bleston Court. In other words, this is also a dream destination for couples getting married at Karuizawa Kogen Church.



However, if you look closely at the church's plaque, it reads "Hoshino Gakudo." This church originated from an "Artistic Free Education Workshop" held in a lumber shed in 1921. A long time ago, the renowned Kanzo Uchimura was an instructor there. A document written by Mr. Uchimura to the second generation owner, Kasuke Hoshino, in 1926, titled "Secrets to Success," still exists.

1. Rely on yourself. Do not rely on others.
1. Do not emulate the success-oriented Americanism. Adhere to the integrity-focused Japanese spirit.
1. Treat employees as siblings. Treat guests as family.
(Excerpt)

When your senses are heightened by exquisite cuisine, encountering such words is truly moving. The profound depth felt when spending time in the Hoshino area is perhaps because it gently offers insights during your travels. Learn well, play well.



Yes, teacher, understood.

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