Wearing Her Own Designs

MaruwakaI believe there are several types of travel. Traveling for work to different regions is a journey, and of course, traveling abroad for leisure is also a journey.


KurokouchiIn my case, the purpose is work, and I most often travel to regional areas within Japan. Specifically, I go to meet with factories and artisans. I rarely book accommodation in advance.


Working solely at a desk limits inspiration. It's more interesting to go to the actual sites and listen to people. There are times I'm away from Tokyo for more than half the month. I can work anywhere with a laptop. I imagine myself working while traveling around different regions and communicating with Tokyo.


MaruwakaThe reason I started this series in the first place was to explore the idea that "travel is personal." I thought that by listening to people talk about their travels, I could gain insight into their individuality. I've interviewed many people so far, and I've been surprised by how personal their stories are.

Maiko Kurokouchi, designer of "mame"

A cardigan from "mame," the brand created by Ms. Kurokouchi

KurokouchiFor me, the set of items I always bring on a trip is fixed. I've chosen a few from that set to bring today. First, thisblack cardigan (Note 1)It can get quite cold on the Shinkansen or buses, so I often wear it.


Well, I run a brand called "mame"...


This is a cardigan I made because I wanted to wear it myself. It's 100% silk, and the detachable collar is also made of silk. I designed it to look elegant while prioritizing ease of wear.


The embroidery on this cardigan is done in Kiryu, Gunma Prefecture. When I visit the factories that handle parts of the garment, even if it's a flamboyant dress, I wear it there.


The people who actually make the garments, such as those who create the collars or do specific embroidery, often don't know what the final product will look like. I do send them images of the finished clothing, but not everyone can see them. That's why it's easier to communicate the result by wearing it and showing them, "This is what it became."


MaruwakaI imagine that changes the motivation of the craftspeople. However, I also like black clothes, but don't you find that dust and lint show up easily if you wear them for a long time while traveling?

KurokouchiI carry a portable lint roller. As for other clothes, while ease of movement is essential, I also pack elegant blouses and dresses that can be worn for dining out while traveling.


I pack my clothes in compression bags to minimize their size. Once I reach the hotel, I hang them up and use a wrinkle-release spray.


MaruwakaI've heard from many people for this series, but Ms. Kurokouchi's practical advice is particularly useful for women.

Solán de Cabras mineral water in a blue bottle (ThreeBond Trading Co., Ltd. http://www.threebond-trading.co.jp/)

KurokouchiI also try to use the smallest possible bag. I prefer backpacks or tote bags that are small enough to carry without needing to be checked in. But women tend to pack a lot for trips, don't they?


MaruwakaThat's right. Even when my female staff were told it was a one-night trip to Yamaguchi Prefecture, they brought a considerable amount of luggage.


KurokouchiI think having too much luggage can be tiring. I usually travel alone, and sometimes I spontaneously decide to go to Ishikawa Prefecture, so I always want to be light. For a one-night trip, I might even go with just an eco-bag that fits A4 documents.

Sleeping Soundly

KurokouchiSince I don't book accommodation in advance, I really rely on the "Jalan Tonight's Hotel Booking" app on my iPhone. It's an app that finds available hotels near my current location. In such cases, to relax no matter the space of the accommodation, I carryorganic oil safe for babies (Note 2)with me.


MaruwakaHow do you use it?


KurokouchiI use it when I take a bath, or put a little on my pillow at night. I feel like I sleep better. I actually use it at home too.


MaruwakaScent is an important element, isn't it?


KurokouchiTravel can be tiring. If I don't get proper rest when I sleep, the next day's plans can be ruined.

Elbbaba's "Bath Essence" from the US

A novel carried on the journey: "Kokoro" by Soseki Natsume

MaruwakaI think not carrying over fatigue is truly important. Also,A book for the journey (Note 3)Before our talk, I briefly asked about the books you bring. You mentioned that you usually bring the same book and one you buy at the station depending on your mood, so two books in total.


KurokouchiThis paperback I brought today (Kokoro by Soseki Natsume) belongs to a friend. When I'm in Tokyo, I read various books, but when I travel, I tend to buy novels. I quickly choose one based on intuition at the station kiosk before departing.


As soon as the journey ends, I finish reading the novel. Strangely, the content of the book often links with the journey. Then, that book becomes a part of the travel memories.


MaruwakaIncluding such memories, I believe the "mame" brand is born from these journeys.


KurokouchiI agree.



Note 1A signature silk cardigan from "mame," known for its enduring popularity. ¥44,100 (Maiko Kurokouchi Design Office http://www.mamemamemame.com)

Note 2Founded in California in 1996, Erbaviva is a brand offering organic skincare products. The "Nighty Night Bath Essence" favored by Ms. Kurokouchi is a blend of organic essential oils such as chamomile and lavender, said to promote peaceful and restful sleep.

Note 3She often buys novels when traveling. She purchases them without much deliberation, even from limited selections at station kiosks.

The Efficacy of a Notebook

MaruwakaThis might contradict the premise of this series, but if you strip down what you bring on a trip to the bare essentials, within Japan, I think all you need is an "iPhone" and "Suica." You can find a convenience store anywhere in Japan, so you won't be in trouble. Beyond those two items, what you bring depends on what you want to do.


KurokouchiI completely agree. With just a wallet and an iPhone, you can manage even for short trips without a laptop.


MaruwakaLooking at the items you brought, Ms. Kurokouchi, I'd say your most trusted companion is, without a doubt, your notebook.


KurokouchiMoleskine notebook (Note 4)I always carry it with me, and it's absolutely essential when traveling. I use one notebook per season, jotting down notes. For example, I might sketch a flower that left an impression on me during my trip. It is indeed the most important item.


MaruwakaWhy a Moleskine notebook?


KurokouchiI like how its soft cover gradually conforms and softens with use. Yet, even when writing with one hand supporting it, the notebook doesn't warp, making it easy to write on. After trying various options, I found that Moleskine's cover stiffness allows me to write immediately, regardless of my state. This season, I've opted for a slightly smaller size.

A Moleskine notebook. She recently started using a slightly smaller size.

Jotted notes and sketches

MaruwakaHow has the smaller size been?


KurokouchiSurprisingly, I haven't found it inconvenient. The largest item I carry was my notebook, so I decided to try a smaller one. And although I didn't bring it today, I like "Tombow" 2B pencils or the "Tsukushi Pencil" from Tsukushi Stationery in Kunitachi because of their thick lead. How do you take notes, Mr. Maruwaka?


MaruwakaSometimes I remember things mentally, and other times it's better to write down detailed discussions. I also sometimes write things like meeting minutes on my computer. I don't have a fixed method. However, I feel that writing with a pen or pencil helps things stay with me more firmly.


KurokouchiWhile managing schedules and systematic tasks on a phone or computer is fine, for everything else, I prefer paper. For recording, I bring this notebook, my iPhone camera, and my "Lumix" digital camera.


It's not a professional model and is easy to operate. If it were too complicated, I might miss the "moment I want to capture." When I visit a textile mill or a dyeing factory and see something beautiful, I want to take a picture immediately.

You Can't Create a Brand Without Enjoying the Journey

KurokouchiAt one point, I decided to explore my roots and lived with my grandmother in Nagano for a while.


I heard many stories from my grandmother – about our family history, her upbringing, the war, her life. Grandmothers are familiar figures, yet there's so much we don't know about them.


MaruwakaI also don't know much about my own grandparents.

KurokouchiThen, I documented my grandmother's life. I sketched the seasoning for her simmered dishes and how she arranged them on plates. (Pointing to a sketch in her notebook) This drawing is of the flowers my grandmother grew in her garden. I even created a print pattern based on these flowers. Ultimately, the season that reflected my life in Nagano became a collection called "Personal Memory." The notebook and the act of interviewing my grandmother at that time were incredibly important.


MaruwakaHearing that, I realize that you, Ms. Kurokouchi, are able to digest both everyday life and the extraordinary experience of travel on the same level, creating your own unique worldview.


KurokouchiFor me, the greatest inspiration comes from "everyday life." I believe there are fascinating sensibilities hidden in things that are so commonplace we overlook them.


Right now, looking at the pattern of light filtering through the curtains in this room, I might think about creating a cotton fabric with all-over embroidery to make a lattice pattern. Or, seeing the contrast in the wood grain of this desk, I might consider using natural dyes.


Every day, as I walk around and travel, I'm constantly thinking about such things. Rather than extraordinary experiences, I find it more important to feel the everyday life of the places I visit. That's what matters to me.


MaruwakaI suspect that people who like "mame" clothes feel that "everyday" quality. In a way, even though many of the designs are quite refined, the sense of everyday life comes through because of your personality, Ms. Kurokouchi.

KurokouchiThe perception of "everyday" can also vary. My collections include polyester dresses that resist wrinkles and comfortable cut-and-sew tops with stretch for easy movement. What they have in common is that they are not overly casual.


For working women and women with families, items that blend into daily life but are also slightly special can actually make everyday life feel more real. In that sense, thisclutch bag (Note 5)might be the item that best represents that feeling.

A PVC clutch bag, one of "mame's" signature items

When going out for meals with people I meet during my travels, a small, elegant bag like this is very useful.


MaruwakaThat's something specific to women, isn't it?


KurokouchiIt gives the impression of being a local resident rather than just a traveler. At the same time, it represents the brand "mame." This bag does that.


Even if the clothes I'm wearing are knit or slightly casual, carrying this bag allows me to express the world of "mame." And to fit things into this clutch bag, I switch from my usual long wallet to thissmall wallet from Camille Fournet (Note 6)when I travel.


When I visit factories or meet artisans, they must wonder, "Who is this young woman?" At such times, my "mame" clothes and bag are necessary to present myself.


Even as designers, our work would be meaningless without the artisans and factories that create the clothes. I hope to apply the experiences from visiting these sites to new creations.


MaruwakaThat's wonderful. For example, rather than asking you "What do you think about travel?" over a meal, asking you in a formal setting like this allows us to elicit different insights. It's more interesting, and indeed it has been.


KurokouchiIt seems like many people around you, Mr. Maruwaka, travel frequently.


MaruwakaIndeed, they do. However, one of the things I wanted to convey in this series is──Many people might say, "I can't travel," but I consider even going from home to the office as a form of travel. It's more about a state of mind.

A wallet from Camille Fournet

KurokouchiI also believe that distance and time are not proportional to the feeling of travel. For me, even going to Asakusa is a journey. I think it's important to enjoy that feeling. If I lose the excitement I get from traveling, I probably wouldn't be able to create a brand anymore.


I like music and art, but the beauty of a sunset during a trip, or similar sensory experiences, are more helpful in my creative process. I believe my parents instilled this sensibility in me, and I want to cherish it forever.


MaruwakaIf someone reads this series and then sees a "mame" collection, I believe they will have a different impression than those who haven't read it, in a good way. It's like there's an added layer to beautiful and fashionable items.


It's about understanding "why "mame" was born." While people don't need to know all the details, it allows for a richer way of appreciating the brand, something not found in fast fashion.


KurokouchiCurrently, there are so many cute and affordable items available.──I have no intention of denying that. However, in such a situation, I question the meaning of creating a brand. What lies at its core is the story of its creation, which is something incredibly precious that cannot be bought with money.


Things born from such origins become personal memories. Reflecting on this conversation, I've realized how many of my work projects have been sparked by travel.


MaruwakaAfter speaking with you today, I truly feel that you genuinely enjoy traveling. Thank you very much.



Note 4Moleskine notebooks feature a sturdy cover, an elastic band to keep it closed, and a ribbon bookmark to mark your place – simple yet highly functional. While the hard cover is well-known, Ms. Kurokouchi uses a soft cover. She previously used the "XL" size (19x25cm) but is now trying the "Large" size (13x21cm), which is slightly smaller.

Note 5A PVC (polyvinyl chloride) clutch bag, one of "mame's" signature items. ¥52,500 (Maiko Kurokouchi Design Office http://www.mamemamemame.com)

Note 6Camille Fournet, a leather goods manufacturer founded in Paris, France, in 1945. It is also a factory that produces original straps for many high-end watch brands. She uses a classic coin purse as her travel wallet.

Maiko KUROGOUCHI

After gaining experience in planning A-POC and designing for Issey Miyake's Paris Collection at Miyake Design Studio, she established Kurokouchi Design Office in 2010. In addition to her own brand "mame," she has participated in projects such as "sample project," which creates new things from waste materials (2011), and the Anglo-Japanese exhibition "Mark-ing" at DESIGNTIDE TOKYO (2012).


Hiroshi MARUWAKA

Born in 1979 in Tokyo. Representative of "Maruwakaya," a company that shapes contemporary Japanese culture. He derives contemporary value by embodying universal "beauty" and the "present moment" in objects and experiences. He engages in "monozukuri" (craftsmanship) with Japan's finest, from traditional crafts to collaborations with cutting-edge industries like "Kitajima Shibori Seisakusho." He has led projects such as "Kutani Ware Flower Motif Skull Sweet Jar" (in the collection of the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa), "Uedachoemon Kiln x Jaime Hayon" (exhibited at Salone del Mobile), and "PUMA AROUND THE BENTO BOX." http://maru-waka.com/


[Series "An Item for the Journey" Supporter]

Kosaku TSUCHIDA

Born in 1977 in Tokyo. Director of ThreeBond Holdings Co., Ltd. and President of ThreeBond Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. He conceptualized "Kuttsuku Kizuna Mechanism," a research initiative exploring the mechanisms that create human bonds. Through interviews with individuals active in various fields, he strives to research not only bonding materials but also human connections. His connection with Mr. Maruwaka also originated from "Kuttsuku Kizuna Mechanism" (refer to "ThreeBond presents Kuttsuku Kizuna Mechanism Website").http://929kizuna.com/Currently, he is developing "Creators' Bonding" as an extension of this initiative.

"Creators' Bonding Web"
http://www.creators-bonding.com/

ThreeBond
http://www.threebond.co.jp/

An industrial sealant and adhesive manufacturer. Operating with a global structure divided into six regions – Japan/Asia, China, Europe, North/Central America, and South America – the company has a worldwide presence, primarily in the automotive industry, but also in sectors such as electronics and infrastructure.

Maruwakaya

http://maru-waka.com/

http://h-maruwaka.blog.openers.jp/

https://www.facebook.com/maruwakaya

Products handled by Maruwakaya are available on the official Sumally page "En'uan."

http://sumally.com/maruwakaya_enyuan