VIKTOR & ROLF: An Interview with the Designer Duo
FASHION / WOMEN
July 28, 2015

VIKTOR & ROLF: An Interview with the Designer Duo


VIKTOR & ROLF


Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren visit Japan for the first time in four years


The two designers discuss "the present" (1)



Viktor & Rolf, the fashion brand based in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren visited Japan for the first time in four years, sharing their current state of mind regarding their creations and fashion.



Text by Winsome Li (OPENERS)Photographs by JAMANDFIX




Pursuing peace and tranquility, enjoying the "now"






The duo met at the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design in the Netherlands and hit it off, launching their careers upon graduation. They moved to Paris in 1992 and presented their first haute couture collection the following year. Their debut collection won three awards at a young designers' competition held in Hyères, France. The fashion brand "Viktor & Rolf" was born from this success, and they also launched ready-to-wear (RTW) for women and men. Twenty-one years since its inception, how has "Viktor & Rolf" evolved?

“The brand has come full circle. We started with haute couture, followed by men’s and women’s RTW, and last year we returned to haute couture collections. We’ve also launched several fragrances.”


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Viktor & Rolf Autumn/Winter Couture Collection 2013-14





Their haute couture collections were put on hold in 2000,returning in July last year with the Autumn/Winter Couture Collection 2013-14. 2013 also marked the brand's 20th anniversary, and their commemorative haute couture collection, presented for the first time in 13 years, was inspired by Japanese "Zen gardens." The reason behind this choice connects to their current mindset.

“We chose the Zen garden as inspiration not just for its beauty, but because it symbolizes ‘serenity.’ There is no place more peaceful than a Zen garden. Through this comeback collection, we wanted to convey the message of ‘serenity.’ We’ve been working for 20 years and have become workaholics. It’s time to calm down and enjoy the ‘now,’ rather than always chasing the next goal. We want to be satisfied with our current lives.”

Before becoming fashion designers, the duo also engaged in contemporary art and continue to be active outside of fashion. Among their current projects, their doll installations, inspired by past collection looks, are particularly noteworthy. In 2008, they held the exhibition "The House of Viktor & Rolf" featuring dolls at the Barbican Centre in London. The two designers spoke enthusiastically about the doll series.



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The "The House of Viktor & Rolf" exhibition held in London





“For our 15th anniversary, the Barbican Centre offered us a solo exhibition, which led us to start creating dolls. We select iconic looks from past collections and scale them down into 70-centimeter-tall dolls. We’ve made about 80 so far, and we want to keep increasing that number. Making doll clothes is more challenging than making human clothes. Since all the garments are downsized, everything from embroidery to printing must be done by hand; it’s a very delicate process.”

The haute couture inspired by "Zen gardens" has also been recreated as dolls and is currently on display at the "The Future of Fashion is Now" exhibition at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam, Netherlands. This is a rare opportunity to see this haute couture, which holds the most significance for them.



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Viktor & Rolf's picture book "Fairy Tales"


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The "Zen garden" installation. Mannequins wearing couture pieces are displayed alongside the dolls, allowing visitors to appreciate the silhouettes of the garments.





Additionally, they have previously published "Fairy Tales," a picture book that expresses the world of Viktor & Rolf through whimsical fairy tales and illustrations. Beyond fashion, the duo can be described as "storytellers" who showcase their creativity in various forms.

“We like to express ourselves in various ways, not just on the runway. Freedom and a sense of possibility are very important. We are ‘storytellers,’ and our picture book ‘Fairy Tales’ is an example. We also believe that creating fragrances is a means of telling a story.”





VIKTOR & ROLF


Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren visit Japan for the first time in four years


The two designers discuss "the present" (2)



Text by Winsome Li (OPENERS)Photographs by JAMANDFIX




Their strong friendship is a source of inspiration



As long-time friends and work partners, the duo has continuously evolved the brand and achieved success. They rarely argue, constantly exchanging ideas as they create. One of Viktor & Rolf's appeals is their ability to surprise each season with "big" themes, rather than sticking to a fixed style. We inquired about the chemistry unique to them that fuels their design inspiration and motivation.



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“Everything began naturally when we started the brand. We are good friends, and ideas emerge from our constant conversations. Our friendship might be the source of our inspiration. Therefore, the collection themes reflect our state of mind at the time.

“Creating beautiful things” is one motivation. Not just objects, but creating beautiful ideas. We consider our creations to be “conceptual glamour.” We enjoy the process of creating based on extreme ideas, resulting in a concept. For us, having a logical concept is beautiful. At the same time, a glamorous element is necessary. Wonderful ideas alone are not enough; they must also possess visual appeal.”

Viktor & Rolf are currently focused on their immediate creative endeavors without worrying about the brand's future. The two emphasized the importance of balance in both work and life, and we encourage you to pay attention to their "now."


Viktor & Rolf / Staff International
Tel. 03-5794-9931