FASHION /
WOMEN
February 10, 2017
Terumi Hagiwara's Series Vol. 163: Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017, Vol. 2
Elegant Dresses with Flowing Pleats—VALENTINO
Evolving Jacket Designs—DIOR
Haute Couture Dresses—VIKTOR & ROLF
Delicate Gothic Dresses—SHUNMI NIELSON
Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017, Vol. 2
The Paris Haute Couture shows are expanding, with increasing participation from Asian designers from China, Korea, and beyond. Gone are the ethnic details once prevalent; instead, designers who studied in Europe and honed their careers at luxury houses are taking center stage. Turning away from mass production, they focus on creating garments with meticulous care. The couture collections are becoming ever more exciting.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
Elegant Dresses with Flowing Pleats—VALENTINO
This is the second installment of the Paris Haute Couture collections. Valentino presented a series of elegant dresses featuring accordion pleats that spread from the shoulders. The pleats varied in width, color, and material, showcasing diverse expressions. They transformed into jackets and then coats, adapting to different items. With every stride in flat sandals, the fabric followed the body. These are dresses that are both graceful and real, beautiful from every angle. I'd love to wear one simply over bare skin. Vivid art adorned the walls of the venue, accentuating the pale pink, cream, and pistachio-colored dresses.
Evolving Jacket Designs—DIOR
Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut couture collection for Dior was inspired by a fantastical forest. The jacket designs were paired with gently flaring pleated skirts. Tailored coat dresses, revealing glimpses of tutus, exuded femininity within a masculine silhouette.
Haute Couture Dresses—VIKTOR & ROLF
Viktor & Rolf further evolved their previous season's collection, which deconstructed and reconstructed past designs. Tulle ruffles created a gradient effect, patchwork-style, with various printed fabrics. Accents of gold trim and zippers, like kintsugi, added a unique touch. Three looks were available for purchase online immediately after the show.
Delicate Gothic Dresses—SHUNMI NIELSON
On the final day of couture, an invitation for a debut collection arrived via email. Captivated by a single dress in its monochrome image, I headed to the venue. In a small room, a young woman sat on a white bed. The collection, which began quietly, comprised 13 pieces: dresses with fragile yet strong silhouettes, created by peeling and joining tulle. A tutu peeked out from beneath a leather-embroidered jacket. The designer is Hyun Mi Nielson. After graduating from the Royal College of Art in London, she honed her skills in Alexander McQueen's atelier before this debut. When asked why she chose a couture debut rather than ready-to-wear, she replied, "I take my time with everything." Couture, crafted slowly and deliberately. She is a designer whose future promises great things.
Shunmi Nielson Spring Summer 2017 Haute Couture Collection
Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Covers New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/