Viktor & Rolf's Triumphant March

At the Paris Haute Couture collections, every maison strives to create an "ultimate statement" (as Jean Paul Gaultier puts it) through masterful handwork. It's not just about preserving tradition; it's about evolving couture techniques daily. This season, the creations felt more impactful than ever.

Viktor & Rolf recreated pieces from their own archives. Deconstructed garments and fabric scraps were cut into ribbons, then joined with buttons and beads. The combination of various details resulted in handcrafted collage garments. The collection opened with voluminous tops paired with denim. The pieces became increasingly ornate, culminating in finale gowns of magnificent volume. The day dresses and wedding dresses, crafted from white ribbons in diverse fabrics and patterns, were particularly stunning. The voluminous gowns echoed the trend seen in the Autumn/Winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collections six months ago, possessing a presence that overshadowed the ready-to-wear trends.

Chanel: Couturiers Evolving Tradition

Chanel transformed the Grand Palais, the collection venue, into their own atelier. Models walked past seamstresses from the actual Lesage embroidery house at work. Tweed jackets featured sharp, linear volume on the shoulders, paired with cropped wide-leg trousers. Dresses with cocoon sleeves emphasized their silhouette, styled with black thigh-high boots. By bringing together ateliers such as Lesage (embroidery), Lemarié (feathers and camellias), and Maison Michel (hats) under its umbrella, the house continues to safeguard couture craftsmanship. This collection is a testament to that culmination of skill.