Terumi Hagiwara | Brand Identity Endures Through Designer Transitions
Terumi Hagiwara's Fashion Days Vol. 114
Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela
Brand Styles Endure Through Designer Changes
Departures and arrivals. This season's collections were certainly eventful. Gaultier presented his final ready-to-wear show, and Christophe Lemaire's last collection for Hermès has also been shown. Maison Martin Margiela will usher in a new era next season with John Galliano, who had been on hiatus, at the helm. Though the designers change, the stage where unparalleled quality and ultimate elegance compete remains the same. This season, too, we savored it to the fullest.
Text by TERUMI HAGIWARA
Chanel: Everyday Luxury That Embraces the City
For its Spring/Summer 2015 collection, Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into the streets of Paris, following last season's supermarket setting. Models strolled down Avenue Chanel as they pleased. Masculine and feminine elements intertwined, with jackets paired with wide-leg trousers or pleated skirts. The finale was a protest march, holding placards that declared "FREEDOM." A manifestation. Such street scenes are commonplace in Paris. From a supermarket to a protest march, Karl Lagerfeld connected Chanel's "luxury" to "reality" by setting the stage in everyday Parisian life.
Adieu, Mr. Gaultier! A Farewell Collection; Couture Only From Now On
This season marks Jean Paul Gaultier's final ready-to-wear collection. He will now focus exclusively on haute couture. The show, set in a grand theater, was themed "Miss Gaultier." It opened with black and white suits. During a scene titled "Thank You, Miss Journalist," models resembling renowned journalist Suzy Menkes and Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani made an appearance. The finale featured "Miss Smoking," appearing against a backdrop of smoky video. This was a variation on the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo suit and dress that caused a stir in the 70s, originally by Saint Laurent. A playful performance that parodied Parisian fashion! Gaultier's signature mischievous spirit was evident until the very end.
Christophe Lemaire's Final Collection for Hermès
Hermès transformed the orangery in the Luxembourg Garden into a desert landscape. The loose-fitting trouser suits and dresses in beige and gray exuded a pure Hermès style, radiant under the sun. Dresses featuring cut-out African tribal masks and those with horse prints were particularly striking. This season marked Christophe Lemaire's final collection for the house.
Maison Martin Margiela Carries Its Past into the Future: Galliano Next
Maison Martin Margiela continues to uphold the brand's distinctive style even after Margiela's departure, transforming deconstructed garments into future fashion. Starting next season, John Galliano, the former designer for Dior, will be taking the creative reins. Stay tuned!
Terumi HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers, and also directs select shops.
Official Blog http://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/