OKUJUN | Visiting Tsumugi no Sato, a 2000-Year-Old Ancient Capital

OKUJUN | Okujun

Why the late actress Hideko Takamine Fell in Love with Yuki Tsumugi

A Visit to the 2000-Year-Old Capital, 'Tsumugi no Sato'

Yuki tsumugi, with roots stretching back to the Muromachi period. "Kimono is Japan's couture. We want to share its techniques and sensibility with the world," says Okujun, a long-established firm in Yuki, as they embark on a new challenge. Expansion into Paris, supplying fabric to luxury brands, and their first directly managed store… Visiting Yuki in Ibaraki, we touched upon their aspirations.

Text by Hagiwara Terumi

'Sawaya': Transforming Intangible Cultural Heritage into Reality

Okujun, a long-established Yuki tsumugi house, has opened its directly managed select shop, 'Sawaya.' Yuki tsumugi is Japan's oldest silk fabric, with a history of 2,000 years. Okujun, a wholesale dealer in Yuki tsumugi manufacturing founded in 1907, owns five registered tangible cultural properties on its spacious grounds, where they publicly exhibit 'Tsumugi no Yakata' (The House of Tsumugi). Just 45 minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo Station, it is now within commuting distance of the capital. Arriving by car down a road lined with serene rice paddies, 'Tsumugi no Yakata' presented a world of silk that begins and ends with cocoons.

Yuki tsumugi was originally a fabric for men. Woven with untwisted, raw silk yarn that is starched, it has a stiff finish, but once the starch is washed out, it becomes a fabric that softens and conforms to the wearer with each wash and wear. Though it may appear plain and suitable for everyday wear, its meticulous process and the exquisite skill of its artisans have earned it designations as a 'National Important Intangible Cultural Property' and a 'Traditional Craft.'

The late actress Hideko Takamine was also known as an admirer of Yuki tsumugi. At the age of 65, she commissioned two black kimonos. One was made into mourning wear with her family crest, and the other into a party outfit with a floral crest (a playful design). She reportedly said, "The crisp texture of Yuki tsumugi enhances one's posture when standing. Kimonos made of tsumugi, which support good posture, are ideal for long periods of standing at funerals or parties." This was an unconventional way of wearing kimonos, unheard of in the industry. These anecdotes were shared by the fourth-generation president, Takeharu Okuzawa. He added, "Sawaya was opened for people like Ms. Takamine, who enjoy wearing kimonos without being bound by formality or tradition."

Sawaya also offers accessories besides kimonos, making it a welcoming shop for kimono beginners. Why not take a short trip and immerse yourself in the world of cocoons? You might discover the joy of cherishing and passing down clothing, turning away from mass production and consumption.

Yuki Sawaya
Business Hours | Weekdays 12:00 PM - 5:00 PM, Saturdays, Sundays, and Holidays 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Closed | Tuesdays
12-2 Yuki, Yuki City, Ibaraki Prefecture
Tel. 0296-33-7047
www.yukisawaya.com

Tsumugi no Yakata
Business Hours | 9:30 AM - 5:00 PM (Last entry 4:30 PM)
Closed | Tuesdays
Tel. 0296-33-5633
12-2 Daigaku Yuki, Yuki City, Ibaraki Prefecture