FASHION /
WOMEN
March 20, 2015
MOYNAT | A Look Inside the Exhibition at Pierre Hermé Paris Aoyama
Reporting from the Exhibition at Pierre Hermé Paris Aoyama
Artistic Director Ramesh Nair Discusses Moynat's History
MOYNAT, the venerable trunk maker founded in Paris in 1849, makes its debut in Japan. Currently, a " Le Moynat Trunk Show" is being held at Isetan Shinjuku until Wednesday, December 25th. This time, we interviewed Ramesh Nair, Moynat's Artistic Director, who was visiting Japan for an exhibition held at Pierre Hermé Paris Aoyama.
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
A Trunk Maker No One Knew
Moynat is a Parisian trunk maker established in 1849. The founder was a woman named Pauline Moynat (uncommon for an owner at the time). As the era transitioned from horse-drawn carriages to automobiles, Moynat pioneered the creation of car trunks. While loading luggage into cars is commonplace today, Moynat was the first trunk maker to produce products specifically for this purpose.
Recently, Moynat's collection was showcased alongside the "Maroquin Trunk" created for Pierre Hermé at the Pierre Hermé Paris Aoyama store. Ramesh Nair, Moynat's Artistic Director, who was visiting Japan, shared insights into the brand's present and past.
—Before becoming Artistic Director, what was your impression of Moynat?
Honestly, I didn't know the "Moynat" brand at first. Not even CEO Guillaume Davenne, nor Bernard Arnault, the president of LVMH who discovered Moynat, knew the details initially.
We began working to revive the brand, but at first, there was very little documentation, so it was a fresh start. I began by imagining what kind of woman Pauline was and what life was like in the 19th century, while looking at vintage trunks I managed to acquire.
Ramesh Nair, Artistic Director of Moynat
Then, as we gathered more materials like old advertisements, we gradually came to understand the brand. One of Moynat's signature models is the "Rejane" bag, launched in 1880. It's named after the actress Gabrielle Réjane, who was as popular as Sarah Bernhardt, a symbol of the Belle Époque. She was a friend of Pauline's. Moynat was likely the first to name a bag after a person as a tribute, much like Hermès' "Birkin."
Short film "ON STAGE WITH MOYNAT" pays homage to Moynat's history
At that time, the concept of a small city bag didn't exist; bags were typically large items for travel. I've heard that Moynat was very innovative in this regard. With our "Rejane," we've revived the original model with a modern twist.
The curves of the "Pauline" follow the design of vintage trunks
On display here are actual trunks that Moynat designed for automobiles over 100 years ago. Classic cars like Bugattis have curved trunk spaces, and Moynat's trunks, with their similar curves, fit perfectly. Our "Rejane" and "Pauline" models draw inspiration from these historical trunks, incorporating these beautiful curves as the brand's identity.
The "Pauline" model is named after the founder and is the brand's signature bag. It's crafted with minimal hardware for simplicity. The opening is narrow, leading to a wide base, achieved by sewing the fabric inside out and then turning it – a very difficult process. Doing this symmetrically is a testament to the exceptional savoir-faire of a select few maisons.
—If you had to describe your creations at Moynat in one word, what would it be?
"Simplicity." Creating something simple is incredibly difficult, but it's worth pouring passion into.
I also find inspiration in keywords. Comfort, craftsmanship, timelessness, utility, innovation... While I do sketch designs, I make it a point to jot down any good words I come across. I aim to reflect all of these in Moynat.
The macaron trunk created for Pierre Hermé took approximately 400 hours to make. It was inspired by a hat case Moynat produced in the past, designed to fit perfectly inside the spare tire of a car. It's said that during long journeys, it could even be used as a bathtub. The ladybug is also one of the motifs in its design.
When expressing a curved line with leather, pleats usually form. The absence of even a single crease is a testament to the artisans' savoir-faire (※) in their craft.
※Savoir-faire: French for "traditional craftsmanship."
—Were the artisans at the workshop previously involved with Moynat?
Moynat disappeared from the public eye in the 1970s, leaving a gap of about 40 years before its comeback in 2010. Therefore, no artisans who worked for Moynat remained. So, we gathered skilled artisans to revive Moynat anew.
The artisan who crafted this macaron trunk is exceptionally skilled, comparable to a living national treasure. Furthermore, the project involved artisans not only in leatherwork but also in various other fields such as woodworking and enameling.
—What are the highlights of the trunk show at Isetan?
This is the first time Moynat has brought its trunks outside of Paris to a location abroad. Historically, even before its revival, Moynat only had boutiques in Paris. Therefore, showcasing at a department store in a country other than France is a significant event. I am deeply honored to be able to do this at Isetan in Japan. Please come and discover Moynat.
Le Moynat Trunk Show
Dates | Wednesday, November 27 – Wednesday, December 25
Location | Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 4F West Park / Luxury Stage
3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3352-1111 (General Inquiries)
Moynat
http://moynat.com/jp/