FASHION /
WOMEN
June 14, 2017
Tomoki Sukezen & Editor Daimao Dialogue | Vol. 12 Tsuyoshi Noguchi (Part 2)
Page. 1
Our guest today isTsuyoshi Noguchiwho recently opened his denim shop "MINED." Noguchi, whose signature style is a no-nonsense T-shirt and denim combination, has known Tomoki Sukezane, our "Editor-in-Chief Demon Lord," for about 30 years. They reminisced about their time in Milan and Paris, tracing the evolution of their wardrobes by showing each other cherished pieces from their collections, which have now become archives in themselves.
Interview by SUKEZANE TomokiPhotographs by TANAKA Tsutomu, OPENERSText by ANDO Sara (OPENERS)Special Thanks to GINZA, GULLIVER, Men's Non-no
Bringing Out Archives from 20 Years of Fashion! A Wardrobe Dialogue You Can Only Hear Here
Tomoki Sukezane, Editor-in-Chief Demon Lord (hereafter, Sukezane)Do you remember this? The Louis Vuitton graffiti. I'm not sure exactly when I bought it, but it was definitely whenStephen Sprousewas still alive. I don't usually go for this kind of thing, but I just had to buy this one.
Tsuyoshi Noguchi (hereafter, Noguchi)That's right (laughs).
SukezaneBut I thought it might look cool if I brought it out again after 10 years. Well, it's been more than 10 years now.
NoguchiYou've never worn it, have you? It's in perfect condition.
SukezaneNever worn it. It's been gathering dust in my closet.
NoguchiThe shape hasn't changed at all.
SukezaneThe Monogram is getting attention again, but doesn't it look pretty good now?
LOUIS VUITTON
From GINZA, May 1, 1999 © Magazine House
NoguchiIt's good.
SukezaneSo I guess it was a pretty good purchase.
NoguchiBut you never wore it (laughs).
SukezaneBut you still have it, right? You definitely bought it, didn't you?
NoguchiI think it's somewhere... Ah! Doesn't that look incredibly nostalgic?
SukezaneAh, you remember it?
NoguchiBecause it's incredibly flashy.
SukezaneIt's a Dolce & Gabbana fur blouson, yes.
NoguchiYou wore that to Paris and Milan, didn't you?
SukezaneWe did. We did.
Noguchi Rei Kawakubosaid, "Yuma-kun! You look like a star!" That really stuck with me (laughs).
SukezaneReally (laughs)? At the Yohji Yamamoto show, Richard Buckleyeven told me, "Are you debuting?" (laughs).
DOLCE&GABBANA
From GULLIVER, Special Issue 2002 © Magazine House
NoguchiIt's quite flashy in daylight.
SukezaneI think we probably went to Gullivertogether wearing this, so it must have been around 2001 or 2002. But looking at it now, I still think it might be nice to wear.
NoguchiBut you won't wear it, will you? Definitely not.
SukezaneWhere did I buy this again?
NoguchiMilan, right?
SukezaneThere was that sales assistant at Dolce in Milan. Remember her? So nostalgic.
NoguchiGabi?
SukezaneYes, Gabi (laughs). She came from Prada, didn't she?
NoguchiThat's nostalgic. Oh,HediSlimane's suit, right?
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
From GINZA, January 1, 2002 © Magazine House
SukezaneYes, I interviewed Hedi in Paris back then for "Mr. High Fashion" or something. It was right when Dior was about to become Dior Homme, and he hadn't even done a show yet, just made some suits. I said, "These are great, great!" and he said, "I'll make them for you." But I didn't like the hem.Mr. High FashionNoguchi
I know. The square cut, right?Sukezane
He said he'd make it, but I couldn't bring myself to say anything. Noguchi
Why didn't you ask him to shorten it?Sukezane
Why is the hem a perfect right angle? Hedi liked that, though.Noguchi
Yes.Sukezane
He made it for me... but.Noguchi
You haven't worn it, have you?Sukezane
Never once. He was particular about details like this.Noguchi
But he hasn't done anything iconic like that since, has he?Sukezane
No. Only during that period. I think he was experimenting with various things then. Suddenly, he became incredibly popular, and Hedi Slimane was on a roll. I wish the tags had the year on them. What's great about custom-made suits is when they have the date.Noguchi
Yes.Rafused to put the year on them too, didn't he? Like 99SS or 2000SS.
SukezaneThat's nice, isn't it?
NoguchiIt's helpful.
Page02.Tomoki Sukezane Mistaken for Takeshi Kaneshiro While Wearing Dolce & Gabbana!?
Page. 2
Tomoki Sukezane Mistaken for Takeshi Kaneshiro While Wearing Dolce & Gabbana!?
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?
NoguchiIt's good.
SukezaneHedi's Dior Homme.
NoguchiThe coats and jackets from that era were good.
SukezaneThey were so refined.
NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.
SukezaneYes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is trulyTomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
NoguchiThat was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
SukezaneYes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see Murajun's Yotsuya Kaidanwearing this (laughs).
NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?
SukezaneI went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting, Juliewas sitting.
NoguchiWow.
GUCCI
SukezaneWith Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
NoguchiUh-huh.
Sukezane It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.NoguchiWeren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?
SukezaneAt what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.
NoguchiYou just stayed quiet?
SukezaneThen the lyricist, you know...
NoguchiOtake
?SukezaneYes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).
NoguchiThat story is completely lost on me (laughs).
SukezaneThat was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.
Noguchi2002, right?
SukezaneNostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.
NoguchiBut 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.
215-D215-D
Sukezane
NoguchiIt's good. The tailoring at Dior was better back then.
SukezaneYes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
TomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
NoguchiThat was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
SukezaneYes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
Yes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun
's Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).
NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?
SukezaneI went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting,
Julie
was sitting. NoguchiWow.215-D
Sukezane
Noguchi
Uh-huh.Sukezane
It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?Sukezane
At what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.Noguchi
You just stayed quiet?Sukezane
Then the lyricist, you know...Noguchi
?Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi
2002, right?Sukezane
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.NoguchiBut 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.215-D215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE215-D
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?NoguchiIt's good.Sukezane
Hedi's Dior Homme.Noguchi
The coats and jackets from that era were good.SukezaneThey were so refined.NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.
SukezaneYes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
Noguchi
That was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
SukezaneYes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun
Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).
NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?
SukezaneI went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting,
Julie
was sitting.Noguchi
Wow.215-D
GUCCISukezane
With Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.Noguchi
Uh-huh.Sukezane
It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?Sukezane
At what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.Noguchi
Sukezane
Noguchi
Otake
?Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi
2002, right?SukezaneNostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.NoguchiBut 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.
215-D215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE215-D
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?
NoguchiIt's good.
SukezaneHedi's Dior Homme.
NoguchiThe coats and jackets from that era were good.
SukezaneThey were so refined.
NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.
SukezaneYes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
TomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
NoguchiThat was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
Sukezane Yes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun
's Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).
NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?
SukezaneI went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting,
Juliewas sitting.NoguchiWow.
215-DGUCCI
With Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
NoguchiUh-huh.
SukezaneIt was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.
NoguchiWeren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?
SukezaneAt what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.
NoguchiYou just stayed quiet?
SukezaneThen the lyricist, you know...
NoguchiOtake
?
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).
NoguchiThat story is completely lost on me (laughs).
Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.
Noguchi2002, right?
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.
But 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.
215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE215-D
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?
NoguchiIt's good.
SukezaneHedi's Dior Homme.
NoguchiThe coats and jackets from that era were good.
SukezaneThey were so refined.
NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.
Yes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
The construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
TomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
NoguchiThat was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
SukezaneYes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun's Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).Noguchi
Seriously (laughs)?Sukezane
I went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting, Julie
was sitting.
NoguchiWow.
215-DGUCCI
SukezaneWith Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
NoguchiUh-huh.
SukezaneIt was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.
NoguchiWeren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?
SukezaneAt what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.
NoguchiYou just stayed quiet?
SukezaneThen the lyricist, you know...
NoguchiOtake
?
SukezaneYes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).
NoguchiThat story is completely lost on me (laughs).
SukezaneThat was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.
Noguchi2002, right?
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.
But 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.
215-D215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
215-D
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?NoguchiIt's good.Sukezane
Noguchi
Sukezane
They were so refined.Noguchi
The tailoring at Dior was better back then.Sukezane
Yes. Maybe it was a factory issue.Noguchi
The construction was more meticulous than now. SukezaneThis is trulyTom
Ford's. A Gucci blouson.Noguchi
That was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?Sukezane
Yes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).Noguchi
Sukezane
Yes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see Murajun
's
Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).Noguchi
Seriously (laughs)?Sukezane
I went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting, Julie
was sitting.
NoguchiWow.
215-DGUCCI
SukezaneWith Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
NoguchiUh-huh.
SukezaneIt was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?
SukezaneAt what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.
NoguchiYou just stayed quiet?
SukezaneThen the lyricist, you know...
Otake
?SukezaneYes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi
2002, right?Sukezane
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.Noguchi
But 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.215-D
215-DDIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
215-DSukezane
Doesn't this look good too?Noguchi
It's good.Sukezane
Hedi's Dior Homme.Noguchi
The coats and jackets from that era were good.
Sukezane
They were so refined.NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.SukezaneYes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
TomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
That was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
Yes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see Murajun
's
Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).Noguchi
Seriously (laughs)?Sukezane
I went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting, Julie
was sitting.
NoguchiWow.
215-D GUCCISukezaneWith Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
NoguchiUh-huh.SukezaneIt was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?Sukezane
At what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.Noguchi
You just stayed quiet?Sukezane
Then the lyricist, you know... NoguchiOtake
?Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi
2002, right?Sukezane
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.Noguchi
But 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
215-DSukezane
Doesn't this look good too?Noguchi
Sukezane
Hedi's Dior Homme.Noguchi
The coats and jackets from that era were good.Sukezane
They were so refined.Noguchi
The tailoring at Dior was better back then.Sukezane
Yes. Maybe it was a factory issue.Noguchi
The construction was more meticulous than now.Sukezane
This is trulyTom
Ford's. A Gucci blouson.Noguchi
Sukezane
Noguchi
Is there something in the pocket? A ticket?Sukezane
Yes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see Murajun
's
Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs). NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?Sukezane
I went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting, Julie
was sitting.
NoguchiWow.
215-DGUCCISukezaneWith Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.Noguchi
Uh-huh.Sukezane
It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?SukezaneAt what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.NoguchiYou just stayed quiet?
SukezaneThen the lyricist, you know...
NoguchiOtake?Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).SukezaneThat was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi2002, right?
SukezaneNostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.
NoguchiBut 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.
215-D215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE215-D
SukezaneDoesn't this look good too?
Noguchi
It's good.
SukezaneHedi's Dior Homme.
NoguchiThe coats and jackets from that era were good.
SukezaneThey were so refined.
NoguchiThe tailoring at Dior was better back then.
Yes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
NoguchiThe construction was more meticulous than now.
SukezaneThis is truly
TomFord's. A Gucci blouson.
NoguchiThat was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
SukezaneYes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
NoguchiIs there something in the pocket? A ticket?
SukezaneYes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun
's Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).
NoguchiSeriously (laughs)?
SukezaneI went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting,
was sitting.Noguchi
Wow.215-D
GUCCISukezane
With Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.Noguchi
Uh-huh.Sukezane
It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?Sukezane
At what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.Noguchi
You just stayed quiet?Sukezane
Then the lyricist, you know...Noguchi
Otake
?Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.Noguchi
2002, right?Sukezane
Nostalgic. That reminded me. So the collection is from 2001.Noguchi
But 15 years ago doesn't feel that long ago.215-D
DIOR HOMME BY HEDI SLIMANE
215-DSukezane
Doesn't this look good too?
Noguchi
It's good.
Sukezane
Hedi's Dior Homme.
Noguchi
The coats and jackets from that era were good.
Sukezane
They were so refined.
Noguchi
The tailoring at Dior was better back then.
Sukezane
Yes. Maybe it was a factory issue.
Noguchi
The construction was more meticulous than now.
Sukezane
This is truly
Tom
Ford's. A Gucci blouson.
Noguchi
That was towards the end of his tenure, wasn't it?
Sukezane
Yes. He was getting busy with Saint Laurent, and I think this was from a period where they re-released popular models because of that (laughs).
Noguchi
Is there something in the pocket? A ticket?
Sukezane
Yes, yes. I was surprised earlier, but I went to see
Murajun
's
Yotsuya Kaidan
wearing this (laughs).
Noguchi
Seriously (laughs)?
Sukezane
I went wearing this! And you know, right behind me where I was sitting,
Julie
was sitting.
Noguchi
Wow.
215-D
GUCCI
Sukezane
With Yuko Tanaka. My back was so tense because of that, I couldn't even understand what was being said on stage. I couldn't hear Murajun's lines at all.
Noguchi
Uh-huh.
Sukezane
It was a play by Yukio Ninagawa, so there were a lot of lines, but I couldn't understand Murajun, and Julie was behind me. I kept wondering what she was thinking watching it.
Noguchi
Weren't you glancing back every now and then (laughs)?
Sukezane
At what point should I say, "I'm a fan!"? It takes courage, especially when they're there as a couple. But I didn't want them to think I was weird. So I couldn't say a word.
Noguchi
You just stayed quiet?
Sukezane
Then the lyricist, you know...
Noguchi
Otake
?
Sukezane
Yes! Otake came with Yuki Amami, and he called out, "Suke-chan!" at me. Bad timing, wasn't it? Julie was behind me! I was thinking, what must she be thinking (laughs).
Noguchi
That story is completely lost on me (laughs).
Sukezane
That was the era, you see. That's why this is from around then.
Noguchi
2002, right?