FASHION /
WOMEN
October 28, 2016
Terumi Hagiwara Series vol.157 | Dior and Valentino: Collections Amidst Designer Changes
Maria Grazia Chiuri's Vision of the New Woman――The Cool, Feminine Reimagining of DIOR
VALENTINO: Real Elegance, Flexibly Expanded from its Classics――Pierpaolo Piccioli
Spring/Summer 2017 Paris Collections
This season, collections marked by designer changes continue to capture attention. DIOR, under its first female Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri, has become decidedly more modern. Pierpaolo Piccioli's VALENTINO presented a collection with a freer, more pop-inspired vision.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
Maria Grazia Chiuri's Vision of the New Woman
――The Cool, Feminine Reimagining of DIOR
The Spring/Summer 2017 Paris Collections. This season saw a succession of houses change their designers. However, this has become a regular occurrence for luxury brands in recent seasons.
The focus is on DIOR. Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly one half of the design duo at VALENTINO, has been appointed the first female Artistic Director, presenting a collection that conceptually captures the modern woman. Tops inspired by fencing jackets are paired with three-quarter length trousers. The look is light and powerful. The embroidery of a bright red heart is said to represent the heartbeat. It conveys a sense of feminine vitality and dynamism. The iconic Bar jacket is updated with large outsized pockets and paired with a tulle long skirt. The ensemble is completed with lace-up flat boots and a Lady Dior bag worn crossbody with a thick strap.
Knitwear featuring embroidered lettering and motifs like "La Lune" (The Moon) and "L’etoile" (The Star) are real pieces you'll want to wear immediately. The finale features long dresses embroidered with the twelve constellations, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship with a touch of simplicity. Keep your eyes on the new DIOR.
VALENTINO: Real Elegance, Flexibly Expanded from its Classics
――Pierpaolo Piccioli
Starting this season, Pierpaolo Piccioli will continue as the sole Artistic Director for VALENTINO. The collection was presented in a mansion filled with natural light. The collection expresses a broader range of colors, details, and designs with unprecedented freedom. Pleats flaring from the waist play with color contrasts, their expressions shifting with movement, wind, and light. Gentle fabrics convey volume at times, and serenity at others. The mature rose pink is exquisite. While VALENTINO has often featured suits and dresses, the collection now includes real-life styling, such as novel shirt and pant combinations.

Terumi Hagiwara | HAGIWARA Terumi
Fashion Director
Covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/





