Terumi Hagiwara Series vol.146 | Christelle Kocher Interview

Craftsmanship as the Goal, McQueen as the Inspiration

Christelle Kocher Interview

KOCHÉ is a brand that has rapidly gained attention in just its second season since its Paris Collection debut. The designer is Christelle Kocher, a 38-year-old French national. She has been selected as one of the eight finalists for this year's LVMH Prize, awarded annually by Louis Vuitton to promising emerging talents. On the first day of the 16-17AW Paris Collection in March, they held a guerrilla show near the Porte de Saint-Denis in Paris's working-class district, with everyone standing. This is a counter-culture mode aimed at the established elite who gather celebrities in high-end hotels. The next day, I immediately went to the showroom to examine the clothes. They were couture pieces, featuring meticulous cutting to create silhouettes, adorned with hand-embroidered details and patchwork. She visited Japan at the invitation of the new shop "H beauty&youth" which recently opened in Aoyama. This is our second interview, following our one in Paris.

Text by Terumi Hagiwara

Connecting the Street to Art

—Is this your first time in Tokyo?

I came to Japan about two years ago for two weeks to see the art on Naoshima island, but this is my first time in Tokyo.

—Naoshima, an island dedicated to art.

The fashion I aim for connects couture with street sensibility and modern art. Modern art is very important to me.

—What kind of child were you?

I was always drawing. I think I decided I wanted to be a designer when I was about eight years old.

—Why did you choose Central Saint Martins in London?

It was the school where Galliano and McQueen graduated. That alone was enough reason for me.

Designer Christelle Kocher

—What sparked your interest in Métiers d'Art (artisanal craftsmanship)?

I worked as an assistant designer for several luxury houses, but I was most influenced by Bottega Veneta and Dries Van Noten. The skills of the artisans who support these houses sometimes imbue their products with a magical allure. I found interacting with the artisans to be incredibly enjoyable. Six years ago, I was delighted to accept an offer to become the Artistic Director at Lemarié (an atelier specializing in corsetry and floral creations, under the Chanel umbrella). I continue to work with Lemarié to this day.

Paris Showroom

—Would you accept an offer from a couture brand?

Of course, I would want to. Galliano and McQueen also worked in couture. However, it would be on the condition that I continue KOCHÉ. The times are different from when they emerged, and I want to build my own business and create my own work.

—Your show venues are always unconventional. Will the next one surprise us too?

I'm thinking about it right now. My partner Julien, who directs the shows and visuals, along with the photographers and musicians, we at the KOCHÉ team always want to create something new. It will surely be a wonderful place with a story.

KOCHÉ 2016-17 Fall/Winter Womenswear Collection

This interview took place during a tight 3-night, 5-day schedule in Tokyo. Christelle aims for a new luxury that transcends class, nationality, and culture, stating, "I want everyone to see high fashion, not just a select few." During the show in the arcade, I saw an Indian restaurant owner peeking in with a plastic bottle in hand. One of my favorite pieces is a coat where small elements like lace, sequins, and even vinyl are hand-patched together. The lining is jersey, making it modern and comfortable to wear. It's a piece to be chosen carefully and cherished. This is that kind of brand.

Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Prêt-à-Porter, and Paris Haute Couture collections every season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. She also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/