FASHION /
WOMEN
May 18, 2016
The Current State of Japanese Bespoke Shoes | REGAL
REGAL | Regal
Regal's Prowess in Bespoke
Regal, which was among the first to introduce Western-style shoes to Japan, has widely shared the excellence of men's footwear. The bespoke shoes offered by Regal, a leading Japanese shoemaker, are not merely the pinnacle of their craftsmanship. They represent a rare opportunity to experience the very essence and joy of shoemaking, beginning with a dialogue between the client and the artisan.
Photographs by KOBAYASHI Takashi (ITARU Studio)Styling by INADA IsseyText by TAKEISHI YasuhiroEdit by ITO Yuji
The Ultimate Creation Connecting History to the Future
In 2004, amidst Japan's first boom in luxury men's shoes, Regal opened its flagship store, "REGAL TOKYO," in Ginza. Simultaneously, they embarked on a pioneering endeavor, the first in their over 100-year history: the development of authentic bespoke shoes crafted by artisans in a dedicated atelier. This stands as a monumental achievement, symbolizing Regal's dedication and expertise.
The history of shoemaking in Japan began with the Meiji Restoration. Following the opening of the country, Westernization and modernization swept through all aspects of society, including the Western-style military boots required for the armed forces. Katsuzo Nishimura, from a samurai family in the Sakura domain, recognized the prevailing trend of the era and established a shoe factory in 1870 (Meiji 3). In 1902 (Meiji 35), he merged four companies to found "Nippon Geta Seizo," which continued to supply durable military boots, fitted for Japanese feet, to the army until the end of World War II.
After the war, the company shifted its focus to civilian footwear production. In 1961 (Showa 36), they entered into a technical licensing agreement with the American Brown Company (now Clarice Inc.) for Regal shoes, commencing the production of the "Regal" brand. This company is the predecessor of today's Regal Corporation. As this history illustrates, having originated from the mechanized production of military boots, the company's experience with bespoke shoemaking is relatively recent.
So, why did Regal venture into bespoke shoemaking? Because handmade bespoke shoes, adaptable to every individual's foot shape and preferences, represent both the origin and the apex of men's footwear. For Regal, a company that played a role in opening the doors to Japanese shoemaking, this was an opportunity to reconstruct a missing piece of its history and, by completing its narrative, to further evolve Japanese footwear—a creation for the future, so to speak.
True Bespoke: Pursuing Ideals with Artisans
Regal's bespoke shoes are imbued with the company's unique dedication. While orders are continuously accepted at the order salon on the second floor of "REGAL TOKYO" in Ginza, essentially any design can be commissioned. The selection of upper leathers is extensive, ranging from basic calfskin to rare exotic leathers seldom seen in ready-to-wear shoes, and specifications for soles and heels are also highly detailed. With such a wide array of choices, clients can order the shoes they envision.
What is particularly noteworthy is not just the freedom of customization. All of Regal's bespoke shoes are handled by three master craftsmen in the bespoke atelier located within the Regal Corporation headquarters. From last making, cutting, and sewing to finishing, no external processes are outsourced; the entire production, including the intricate hand-sewn welt construction, is meticulously executed by hand.
This integrated system is crucial for quality control. Furthermore, what deserves attention is that artisans visit the Ginza order salon to take orders directly from clients by appointment. This face-to-face interaction allows clients to articulate their desires more precisely, while artisans can better grasp the vision and offer expert advice. When the artisans themselves take measurements, conduct fittings during the trial stage, and exchange opinions, clients can achieve the appearance, design, precise fit, and robust construction they envisioned—truly "Regal" shoes.
Bespoke originates from the word "Be Spoken," meaning "to speak" or "to converse." Many brands employ a system where shop staff take orders at the counter and relay the details to artisans in the workshop. In contrast, the man-to-man craftsmanship that begins with a dialogue between the client and the artisan is the quintessential approach to custom shoes, returning to the very origins of shoemaking, and can be considered the ultimate in shoemaking. If you wish to have original shoes made that are uniquely yours, unlike any in the world, we highly recommend experiencing the bespoke service at "REGAL TOKYO." [AD]
REGAL TOKYO
Address | 1-6-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 106 GINZA BLDG.
Phone | 03-3567-1400
Prices | Bespoke from ¥250,000 (approx. 6 months delivery), Workshop Goodyear welted from ¥120,000 (approx. 3 months delivery), Regal Built to Order System from ¥44,000 (approx. 1 month delivery)
URL | http://www.regaltokyo.jp






