FASHION /
WOMEN
July 21, 2015
Mugler Reimagined, As Interpreted by David Koma
MUGLER
New Creative Director Makes First Visit to Japan
The New MUGLER Interpreted by David Koma (Part 1)
The maison "Mugler Paris" took the fashion world by storm in the 80s with its "ultramodern" aesthetic and creativity. In 2014, Georgian-born designer David Koma was appointed Creative Director, infusing the maison with new energy and vision. Ahead of its arrival in Japan, David made his first visit. What is the new MUGLER in his eyes?
Photographs by KOBAYASHI Takashi (ITARU Studio)
Interview & Text by Winsome Li (OPENERS)
A 13-Year-Old Boy Who Became a MUGLER Fan
In 1974, Thierry Mugler founded his eponymous atelier brand, launching his first full collection. He later stepped down as Creative Director in 2010, with Nicola Formichetti taking over. Formichetti brought "Mugler Paris" back into the spotlight, notably by featuring his close friend Lady Gaga on the MUGLER runway and creating bold campaign visuals. However, Nicola resigned after the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection. The chosen successor was the then 28-year-old David Koma, marking the arrival of a young Creative Director.
David made his first visit to Japan for the Autumn/Winter 2015 collection presentation. He presented his first collection at the age of 15 and had been a fan of MUGLER since childhood.
"I first learned about MUGLER when I was 13 and saw a documentary about the brand. I felt a connection to MUGLER's clothes and aesthetic, and immediately became a fan. I love Pierre Cardin, Azzedine Alaïa, and especially fashion from the 60s and 80s, but MUGLER holds a special place in my heart.
The moment I heard the offer for Creative Director, I was incredibly excited. It was a job I had always dreamed of, and I always believed it would come true someday. I loved MUGLER 100%, so I accepted without hesitation."
The New MUGLER—Sculptural, Structured, Powerful
Celebrating eternal avant-garde, the brand's signature is its sensual style and body-conscious silhouettes, achieved through couture techniques and a unique aesthetic. David's reinterpretation has brought the modern MUGLER to a new stage.
"For me, the most important elements are silhouette, and the strength created by the wearer's movement, posture, and balance. If I had to describe MUGLER in three words, they would be sculptural, structured, and powerful. The MUGLER woman has an urban lifestyle, is a successful woman who travels the world like a jet-setter. Success isn't just about outward appearance; true success is symbolized by inner power and happiness."
Based in London, David has also been developing his own brand since 2009. His signature is sculptural dresses that follow the female form. This signature perfectly synchronizes with MUGLER's iconic "super body-conscious" looks. By studying the maison's archives, David creates new collections.
"I've followed MUGLER for many years, so I understand the brand deeply. Since becoming Creative Director, I delve into the archives, which contain over 5,000 pieces each season. However, I focus more on creating based on my own intuition rather than deeply exploring archive pieces. By re-examining the past and present, MUGLER's couture embodies excellent craftsmanship and the spirit of artisans, much like art.
The world of MUGLER is rich with various elements, and currently, I'm concentrating on clean silhouettes and impeccable tailoring. Future collections might incorporate different elements, perhaps revealing an unseen side of MUGLER."
MUGLER
New Creative Director Makes First Visit to Japan
The New MUGLER Interpreted by David Koma (Part 2)
Focusing on Balancing Creativity and Business
David is currently leading two brands and shuttling between London and Paris, leading a busy life. Beyond his role as a designer, he also considers the business aspects essential for the brand.
"Having built a career as a fashion designer for over 10 years, I've learned a great deal about business. What we do is a fashion business, so if the business isn't sustainable, there's no point in pursuing fashion. If business wasn't a consideration, we could focus solely on couture. While creativity is crucial for ready-to-wear, business results are also a measure of success."
Autumn/Winter 2015 Collectionwas inspired by stimulating digital elements such as IC chips and circuit boards. Based on the supple silhouette of a woman, looks were presented on the runway that emphasized the hips and bust, with delicate collarbones accented by sheer panels and small perforations. "I've been interested in the inner workings of computers since I was a child, and I remembered that a few months before the show. I expressed the copper and green colors of electronic circuits through various textures."
MUGLER will launch bags and accessories in earnest from the next season. We look forward to the continued evolution of MUGLER under David's direction.
David Koma
Born in Georgia in 1985. A fashion designer based in London. After studying art in his hometown of Saint Petersburg, he presented his first collection at the age of 15. He moved to London in 2003 to study fashion at Central Saint Martins, where he honed his skills in creating signature looks. Immediately after graduating in April 2009, he debuted his own brand's collection at London Fashion Week. In Autumn 2014, he was appointed Creative Director of "Mugler Paris."