A Millimeter-by-Millimeter Battle of Shaving, Tightening, and Stretching

Reading Mr. Shigematsu's "Footprints – Stories of My Beloved Shoes," one of OPENERS' signature series, one comes to understand his ideal shoe style. Particularly, as written in the "First Pair" of the series, he favors aristocratic shoes with a narrow, very slim width and a long, pointed toe. Even after meeting and speaking with Mr. Shigematsu, this ideal remains unwavering.

For this John Lobb bespoke order, he entrusted François Madignier with a sample of his ideal shoe.

"Mr. Shigematsu is very knowledgeable about shoes and we know he is fond of John Lobb. For this order, he brought a sample with the request, 'Please make this.' We must fulfill his request without compromising the John Lobb aesthetic. Today's fitting will allow us to discuss the finer details and move closer to his ideal shoe," said François.

During the actual fitting, he first wears both shoes in their basted state (though made with the finest leather that could be finished as-is), marks areas that touch, and then uses a cutter on the toe, heel, and sides to check and adjust the interior.

"Let's extend the toe shape by about 5 millimeters."
"I'd like the waist shaping to be more pronounced."
"The last (wooden mold) is narrower and longer than usual."

A battle of intuition and skill unfolds at their feet.

It takes 50 hours to make one shoe

Françoisstated, "The beauty of John Lobb's bespoke is that we, the craftsmen, and our clients thoroughly discuss and create a pair of shoes together. That's why you can feel the passion, and you can tell at a glance, 'That's a John Lobb custom order.'"

"As it's a custom order, we can naturally accommodate any size, and create shoes that look elegant and sleek, fitting the wearer's proportions."

"The most crucial part of the custom order process is the measurement. First, we have the client place their foot on paper and measure it meticulously. I also carefully observe the shape of the client's foot, envisioning what kind of shoe would suit them, before taking the actual measurements. Furthermore, we discuss their needs regarding whether the shoes will be for work or private use, the desired leather, and the design. This approximately one-hour measurement process concludes."

"Next is the basted fitting. Typically, clients try on a transparent sample, mark any areas of concern, and these are reflected in the finished product."
"Mr. Shigematsu's requirements are particularly demanding, so we emphasize fitting and re-measurement to understand his requests."
"Furthermore, before delivering the finished product, we create just one shoe to show the client for design confirmation, and then proceed to make the other."
"To ensure the final design truly matches their desires, the craftsmen spare no effort."

"We sincerely hope many people will experience the excellence of John Lobb's custom orders."
"By listening to the requests of many individuals, our skills also improve. Please visit us."
he said, demonstrating his pride as a craftsman.


John Lobb "Bespoke Order Event" Preview
The order event is by appointment only, so advance reservation is required.
John Lobb Marunouchi | March 18 (Tue) - 22 (Sat)
John Lobb Shinsaibashi | March 23 (Sun) - 24 (Mon, Holiday)
The Sovereign House | March 18 (Tue) - 22 (Sat)

Inquiries | Tel. 03-6267-6011