FASHION /
NEWS
March 12, 2015
The Garbstore | Designer Ian Paisley Discusses the New Autumn/Winter Collection
The garbstore
Autumn/Winter 2013-14 Collection
An Interview with Designer Ian Paisley
The garbstore. The word 'garb' means 'clothing,' but it's a term that has largely fallen out of use, a relic of the past. The items created by The garbstore evoke a vintage feel, not through exact reproductions, but by selectively adding or removing details relevant to contemporary needs, presenting them as something new. We spoke with designer Ian Paisley about the Autumn/Winter 2013-14 collection.
Photographs by TAKADA MidzuhoText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
Inspired by 1970s British Prisoner Uniforms and the Era's Context
—What is the theme for this season's collection?
This season's theme is 'His Majesty’s Pleasure,' which carries a dual meaning: 'At His Majesty’s command' and 'You are in prison.' The collection features items inspired by 1970s British prisoner uniforms and vintage pieces from that era. Due to the historical context, stitching was economized, and details were omitted. They were made with reduced thread, which is quite interesting.
To give a clear example, consider this prisoner shirt. First, the stripe pitch is the same as the vintage item we referenced. The pocket seams at the bottom are unfinished, preventing prisoners from carrying knives or other items. Also, to save thread, the facings of the side pockets are simply folded over, with no reinforcing stitches, creating a minimalist specification.
We've also created variations of the same shirt design, one printed with 'Paradise,' the opposite of 'Prison,' and others with bold contrasting colors and patterns. While authentic prisoner uniforms were made in subdued colors, this series deliberately incorporates contrasting colors and patterns.
—What are the brand's design sources?
We are constantly researching vintage clothing. By comparing items from various countries, not limited to France or Germany, we discover their unique appeals.
Specifically regarding workwear, the details change depending on environmental factors like climate in each country. In our collections, we mix designs from various countries—America, Britain, Canada—for different parts. By adding modern touches like quilted linings, we express a new vintage style.
This scarf, incorporating details from British military flight jackets, is reinforced by varying the knit at the sides and the neck where stress is applied. The yarn is original, spun from blue and white threads, and from orange and yellow threads, then knitted by mixing these two types.
—You're using Japanese fabrics, aren't you?
Almost all of our materials are Japanese. Simply put, the quality of the fabrics is higher than in other countries.
Japanese manufacturers use old machines and traditional methods to produce fabrics with an authentic feel. Only in Japan can I achieve the texture and character I seek in fabric. While it's possible to achieve the same results with identical patterns and instructions in Europe, the outcome tends to lean towards a more luxurious finish.
This top is part of a series produced with Indigo Farm, a factory that indigo-dyes sashiko-woven fabric, typically used for judo uniforms. We're also using the same material for footwear in the next season's collection. In 1970s Britain, it was common for children to learn judo or karate. I also practiced judo, and having worn it myself as a child, it holds a special significance for me.
—Have you challenged anything new this season?
We're always thinking about doing something new, but perhaps the footwear collection with Reebok is one example. A unique point is that the tag on the tongue is reversed from its usual position. Footwear is a new endeavor for us, and we're still learning. We aim to incorporate ideas from our clothing into our shoes.
The tongue tag is reversed from its original position.
Limited edition model for London and LA flagship stores
—Any other news?
Our new shop in LA, which opened in late September. It was a project we brought to fruition in three months, and we built everything ourselves, including the fixtures and lighting. We also carry select items from our London store. While these items are familiar to us, they will be very fresh for the LA market.
—To reiterate, what is the style of 'The garbstore'?
Clothing culture is born from historical context. At The garbstore, we capture moments from various eras. While they may not be directly connected, we curate items with a similar feeling and express them with the addition of elements from contemporary lifestyles. That is our collection.
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