Exquisite Pocket Placement and "Fit"

—Anyone who loves clothes would intuitively feel "there's something" about this setup. It looks simple, but you can sense the functionality.

Thank you. This is something I've consistently said since the brand's inception.—The expression is difficult, on the verge of being too much, but...—If functionality isn't necessary, then it's okay to omit it. But if it exists and suits you well, it's definitely better to have it. For example, sportswear, outdoor gear, workwear, and military wear are all incorporated into fashion for their functionality. While my clothes look simple, I focus on aspects that make them "convenient" when actually used, which is probably why people feel the functionality. However, I'm careful not to make them look "obviously outdoor" or "obviously military."

—I see. Could you start by explaining the jacket?

This jacket is called the "CLEARED JACKET." "CLEAR" means to break through or overcome. It signifies a jacket that has cleared away various obstacles. A jacket is the foundation of menswear, and many men think "jackets are cool" even if they don't wear them daily. I wanted people to wear jackets more naturally, like a blouson, and to "CLEAR" their hesitation towards wearing jackets.





—What about specific features?

In this jacket, the shoulder line is high and the sleeves are attached pointing downwards, making it difficult to raise the arms. You could say that this construction creates the jacket's characteristic sharp appearance.

—But when you put it on, the entire sleeve points downwards, right?

That's the first point I aimed to "CLEAR." At first glance, it looks the same, but you'll notice the difference when you wear it. You can raise your arms. It maintains the sharp shoulder line characteristic of a jacket, yet allows for arm movement.

—Hmm, I still can't tell just by looking...

I understand. (While explaining with a whiteboard) There's a trick to how the sleeves are attached. It makes it comfortable. When you actually wear it and raise your arms, you'll find there's absolutely no restriction.

—Any other features?

A major feature is the fabric. We're using a cotton gabardine. It's a fabric that's easy to wear in early spring, resulting in a light and comfortable finish.

—What about the functionality and specifications?

I think many men subconsciously prefer not to carry bags. In that sense, the pocket capacity is also a key point. Normally, jacket pockets don't have gussets, so they bulge out when you put things in them. This jacket has a large chest pocket with enough capacity to hold a phone or cigarettes without showing through. It has a reflector inside and a mesh lining. It also functions as ventilation.

—It's also the time of year when it gets hot on trains.

And in the past few years, the number of people commuting by bicycle has increased significantly. In that case, ease of movement is crucial. Not only can you bend and stretch your arms easily, but when it gets hot while riding, you can use the ventilation without opening the front. It won't flap open. The reflector should also be effective for safety. Even if you open the zipper, the bag-like pocket at the very bottom prevents items from falling out.





—The way the pockets are attached is also different from usual.

Normally, the opening of a jacket pocket is parallel to the ground, but if you put your hand into this type of pocket, you can damage the seam. However, this jacket's pocket has a vertical slit, allowing you to put your hand in like a hand warmer. This way, you're less likely to damage the seam.

—And it's aligned with the fabric panel, so it's not noticeable.

The pockets on this "CLEARED JACKET" are placed in areas you wouldn't normally expect. That's part of the appeal, but in reality, it's more convenient. It's in a natural position relative to arm movement.

—So, the placement of pockets in jackets has room for improvement.

For example, when sitting on a train, it's easier to take things out of the chest pocket than the waist pocket, right? I put a lot of thought into the placement. When I used to ride a motorcycle, I put my ticket in my pants pocket, and it was hard to take out, which made me anxious. At that moment, I realized that "the position of pockets for use while seated is very important."





—They're also convenient for things like golf. You don't have to worry about wrinkles.

Also for short trips to an onsen. You want to look stylish, but a wool jacket might feel out of place. I think it's very convenient for those times. I'd be happy if people wore it with the feeling of just "throwing on" a blouson or cardigan.

—Thinking about it that way, the name "CLEARED JACKET" can be interpreted in various ways, which is interesting.

I put a lot of thought into the model names and naming of items. The brand name "CIVILIZED" also has many links. The word itself means refined and elegant. But it also implies stripping away the unnecessary, not making it look like things are piled on.—In that sense, it feels like it's reaching a higher purity. Rather than adding new things, it's about adding functionality to what already exists. It's simple, but that simplicity allows for a lot of thought and stories to be told.

A Silhouette That's Easy to Move In Yet Looks Slim

—Please tell us about the features of the pants.

The most obvious feature is the three-dimensional silhouette. You can see it from the side, but human legs aren't straight; the knees protrude forward. Not only does this allow for easier bending, but it also affects how the silhouette appears.

—The way the silhouette appears?

If it's not three-dimensional cutting, meaning the fabric is simply sewn together front and back, it spreads out sideways. This makes it look wide and bulky when viewed from the front. But by having the knees protrude forward, it looks sleek and slim from the front.

—I see...

They look slim, but they actually have a certain amount of room, so they don't feel constricting. Standard suit pants look slim, don't they? But when you look at them from the side, they're quite wide. In other words, suit trousers create a slim appearance through the crease. This has a similar effect.

—What about other functional aspects?

Here too (on the left thigh), there's a pocket with a reflector inside. It's designed for easy operation with the right hand. The waist is also adjustable with a drawstring, making them easy pants. It creates a subtle sense of relaxedness and looseness.

—You can even let them hang loose intentionally.

You see hoodies with drawstrings that are secured with toggles, but for some reason, pants often lack fasteners for their drawstrings.





—There's a zipper at the hem, isn't there?

I personally wear sneakers often. Not the flat, "low-tech" kind, but I like the more high-tech looking ones. They surprisingly have a lot of volume—the hem of pants needs a certain width to drape well over shoes. When you pair pants with a narrow hem with voluminous sneakers, the silhouette often doesn't look good. It can make your legs look shorter.

—It's similarly difficult with high-cut sneakers.

There are times when you think, "It's almost there..." (laughs). I like boots and other voluminous shoes. I want to be able to choose my shoes freely. For example, if you like these pants and decide to wear sneakers today, or waterproof boots because it's raining, the volume of the shoes is completely different, right? I wanted to eliminate the stress of "these pants look good with sneakers, but not with these boots." I wanted to make the pants adaptable to the shoes.

—New Balance sneakers, Converse All-Stars high-tops, Dr. Martens—they all have different volumes.

Another feature I like is the back pockets. There's a zippered pocket along the seam. That's about it. Many of my clothes are hard to appreciate without trying them on, but once people wear them, many seem to get hooked... As men, even if we own many clothes, we tend to have a few favorites for a particular time, right? That's why I believe we always reach for the most convenient items. There are various conditions, such as comfort, suitability for the weather or temperature... I want to create clothes that strike a balance between functionality and design.

CIVILIZED
Tel. 03-6416-3094
http://www.civilized.jp/