Sharp Designs Enhanced with Essential Functionality

──What is the brand concept?

The Art of Patternmaking Achieves Functional Yet Minimal Silhouettes

──Could you give an example of where functional design is incorporated?

In terms of materials and cutting, for instance, this season's polyester jersey uses a quick-drying, moisture-wicking fabric – the kind sports brands use. It's not just about appearance; the fact that it dries quickly even when wet is undeniably convenient. We've crafted this into a fashion item, rather than a typical sports jersey.



It's not always about "new technology no one has ever known before." Sometimes, simply combining things that everyone already knows can lead to something new.

For example, the sleeve construction here. When hung on a hanger, it might look oddly bent, which could feel unusual. However, since we bend our wrists inward and outward frequently, we've simply added gussets in those directions. When you put your hand in, the gusseted area wrinkles, creating an interesting design detail. It makes bending the wrist easier while acting as an accent when the arm is straight. We want to add meaningful design elements like these, not just superficial ones.

The "Covered Vest" Series, Embodiment of CIVILIZED's Dedication

This covered vest actually has long sleeves stored inside the back panel. There's a zipper on the inside of the back, and when you open it, the long sleeves emerge. They're attached to the vest, so they won't come off, but you can wear them over the vest or underneath. It's incredibly convenient for transitional seasons when it's not quite cold enough for a jacket, but a vest alone isn't sufficient.



When I first made it, the only way to wear it was with the long sleeves underneath the vest. But that meant taking off the vest, putting on the long sleeves, and then putting the vest back on – it was cumbersome. This time, I've redesigned it so you can wear it, open the zipper, pull out the long sleeves from the bottom, and wear them like a backpack. This transforms it into a regular blouson, eliminating unnecessary steps. Also, previously, the vest and sleeves were made of the same material. This time, by using different materials, it changes its appearance: worn underneath, it looks like a stadium jacket; worn over, it resembles a sharp, sporty blouson.

The warmth can also be adjusted in three stages depending on how you wear it. The vest alone offers the least warmth. The second stage is wearing the sleeves underneath the vest, and the third is wearing the sleeves over the vest. The vest's padding warms the body, and when covered by the sleeves, it traps the heat, creating the most effective insulation. The sleeve components are made of water-repellent material, so if it rains, wearing the sleeves on the outside will prevent the wool from getting wet. It's an item you can adapt to the weather and temperature.







──What is the theme for this season, your third year?

The theme is "MOBILITY," literally focusing on ease of movement. Men's clothing, in particular, often favors sturdy, stiff materials. The reason is their excellent weave and the character they develop with wear, which are simply appealing. At CIVILIZED, we also offer blousons made from sturdy nylon, but they don't stretch at all.

Items made with such fabrics can be restrictive, and it's not uncommon to endure some discomfort while wearing them, but it can be tiring. We wanted to make them easier to move in. The first thought was to create comfortable wear even with stiff materials. From there, we developed the collection with "MOBILITY" as the keyword.

Also, the sleeves are attached pointing downwards relative to the shoulder line, which looks clean when the arms are at rest. When you lay a t-shirt flat, it forms a perfect "T," doesn't it? But with that kind of sleeve attachment, the sleeves lift when worn, causing the silhouette to widen. While considering the design aspect, we balance the shoulder slope, sleeve head, and the overall construction to maintain sharpness while ensuring the arms can be raised comfortably.

──What kind of outerwear items are there?

Including the "Covered Vest," this season features blousons made of stiff nylon, jackets using "3-layer," a functional material that repels water while allowing internal moisture to escape, and a basic M65 tailored with CIVILIZED's signature sharp sizing. All are designed with the ease of movement we've discussed, so I believe you'll understand once you try them on!

Creating Clothes with Meaning

What inspired you to create such functional items?

I think it's true for most fashion enthusiasts, but I also love clothes and buy from various brands. I end up accumulating items that I like and can't part with, but... (laughs). Yet, I only actually wear two or three outfits. There's a sense of "just because" – like, this for rainy days, this for windy days. I noticed this, and it made sense.

Previously, I worked at a directly managed store for a fashion brand, so I mostly wore their clothes and only wore other brands on my days off. But after leaving, I had no restrictions on what I could wear and could freely choose any brand. Yet, I found myself wearing clothes from the brand I used to work for. That means those clothes had what was necessary. In winter, down for warmth; in summer, a t-shirt for the heat; if it rains, something water-repellent is better – I was reminded of these basic needs. I want to create clothes that have meaning.

Thank you for your time.

CIVILIZED
http://www.civilized.jp/