What is Important as a "Ritual" for Men

—In your first collection, the "London Collection Men" Autumn/Winter 2015-16, you presented 12 new models. Could you tell us your favorite?

If I had to choose just one pair, it would be "COMBE," the first model I designed for John Lobb. Tracing the journey of the founder, John Lobb, he first made boots for himself and then set off on his journey to London. For John Lobb, boots, especially lace-up boots, are an important item, so that's what I focused on first.

For men, properly tying and wearing lace-up shoes is an important "ritual." This "COMBE" model has an added buckle, increasing the steps of the ritual, but it is also a design very well-suited for travel.

John Lobb's Unique "One Skin = One Shoe"

—Please tell us about another pair.

I would highlight the "COAST" model, made from a single piece of calfskin, and the "FOWEY" from the Yearbook collection, as examples that showcase the craftsmanship of John Lobb's Northampton workshop and the excellence of handmade construction. Both are like sculptures, with their beautiful processes and meticulously expressed techniques. However, the "one skin = one shoe" approach, producing only one shoe (or one side) from a single piece of leather, is something I believe is unique to John Lobb's luxurious use of materials.

I Feel Passion for Materials

—Are there any commonalities between fashion design and shoe design?

For me, the design process begins with thinking about the materials. For both shoes and clothing, I deeply consider "what the material should become, what we should create" in collaboration with the workshops and factories. By earnestly communicating, the materials eventually speak to you. At John Lobb, I carefully examine the quality, color, and weight alongside the leather artisans.

Furthermore, cutting and pattern making are crucial. For a whole-cut shoe like the "COAST," made from a single piece of leather, the graphic aspect is also important. While shoes and fashion are both three-dimensional forms, I believe that the pattern should be beautiful even when laid flat.

Shoes and Clothes Are for Spending the Day Comfortably

—Functionality is also essential in fashion and shoe design, isn't it?

At my fashion brand "1205," I place great importance on comfort. My career began with tailoring on Savile Row, and the key to bespoke suits is that they are made for the body and move precisely with it, fitting perfectly. The same applies entirely to shoes.

Also, in tailoring, the cut is vital; comfort changes by the millimeter. British men's shoes often have an image of being heavy and robust, but the high level of skill at John Lobb's Northampton workshop allowed us to achieve the modern fit we desired.

—What role do "shoes" play in a man's style?

I consider a man's wardrobe to be like a uniform, which is also a common theme for my brand "1205." Within that, shoes are the key item that completes the day's outfit; they are the last thing you put on when leaving home and the first thing you take off when returning. Naturally, they have a close connection with you, protecting you.

Also, men wearing shoes from the same manufacturer seem to feel a kind of "secret club" sympathy with each other, and it's interesting how wearing John Lobb can create an instant connection, with a glance and a nod like, "Ah, nice shoes."

A Better Brand Experience for You...

—Do you have a message for John Lobb fans in Japan?

Please enjoy wearing John Lobb shoes, which embody both aesthetic beauty and high-level craftsmanship. My role in this brand is also that of a protector of John Lobb. While many may think creativity means change, I want our customers to experience a better brand experience by illuminating the inherent values within John Lobb. To that end, I want to continue telling stories filled with tradition and innovation, infused with respect for the brand.

John Lobb shoes are your essential partners for staying comfortable throughout the day, whether it's for a single day, a week, during travel, or in meetings. Because they are made by human hands, I hope you can enjoy the ideal relationship with your shoes, which gently envelop you.

Paula Gerbase
Paula Gerbase began her career as a tailor on Savile Row before launching her brand "1205" in 2010, with a concept of pure, restrained materialism. Emphasizing cut, material, and proportion above all else, she highlights traditional craftsmanship by exploring essential elements, much like finding tranquility amidst the noise. In July 2014, she was appointed Artistic Director of John Lobb.

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp