The Enduring Appeal of REGAL, Japan's Premier Shoemaker Vol. 03

REGAL | Regal

The Appeal of Japan's Proud Shoemaker Vol. 03

A World First, A Great Achievement

Featuring "GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ Footwear," which keeps the inside of the shoe constantly dry thanks to holes in the sole. A collection has been born that uniquely incorporates this into Goodyear welted shoes for the first time in the world. While the hardships of product development are certainly noteworthy, one can't help but wonder why the esteemed "Regal"... However, in reality, this is the fitting next step for Regal.

Text by Kei TakegawaPhotographs by Tohru Yuasa

A New and Old Tag Team, Arriving with Perfect Timing

It is said that feet sweat about a cup's worth of moisture in a day. Leather, a gift from nature, is breathable, so one doesn't feel particularly uncomfortable in this regard. On the other hand, with rubber soles, which became widespread after the war, much of the moisture generated inside the shoe has no escape.

To solve this problem, Regal set its sights on GORE-TEX® fabric. For clarity, GORE-TEX® fabric is a waterproof and breathable material manufactured and sold by W.L. Gore & Associates of the United States. It's a material that has become well-known through outdoor brands like Montbell, Patagonia, and The North Face, and has been highly praised by professionals in the field, such as mountaineers and adventurers.

REGAL | The Appeal of Japan's Proud Shoemaker "Regal" Vol. 03

The most notable feature is the adoption of the Goodyear welt construction. The Goodyear welt method, known as double stitching, involves passing a sewing machine needle through twice during sole attachment. This is a construction that requires exceptional care when incorporating GORE-TEX® fabric, which envelops the foot.

The repeated prototyping and verification took two years to complete, a testament to their meticulous approach. The technical challenges and how they were overcome are proprietary secrets, so we cannot elaborate, but ultimately, it represents the clash of prestige between world-leading shoemakers and material manufacturers.

Regal Corporation actually signed a contract with Gore and released its first collection 16 years ago. Although it used the stitch-down construction, development at that time also took several years, allowing them to gain repeat customers for shoes suitable for business use from the outset. Then, in 2001, they began offering GORE-TEX® footwear with Goodyear welting. This was a long-cherished goal, not only for fans but also for the development team.

Since then, they have continued to evolve the models, and the technology they have arrived at this time is named GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ Product Technology. The name "Surround" signifies 360-degree comfort.

Fabric Test in GORE® Company

GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ Movie

The DNA of American Tradition

While Regal is a premier Goodyear welt manufacturer, they have also been proactive in functional development. The Boa® system, which allows for instant shoelace adjustment, is a recent memorable example. Their Air Rotation System, which circulates air within the shoe, has also received acclaim.

Looking back at Regal's history, everything can be explained by the spirit of innovation. It goes without saying that "Van Regal" elevated shoes to fashion. But it was also Regal that introduced "Clarks" to Japan, anticipating the casualization of society.

But when you think about it, it makes perfect sense. American traditional style, which took inspiration from Britain, was itself a product of innovation. The I-shaped blazer that fits everyone, the seersucker jackets and pants that became explosive hits by replacing silk with cotton, and the button-down shirts inspired by polo player uniforms. For Regal, the legitimate successor to American traditional style that had evolved uniquely by fully embracing the spirit of a new era, the challenge of GORE-TEX® footwear was only natural.