Part 2 of a Short, Intensive Series: Everything About Alden, the Pinnacle of Practical Dress Shoes for Leather Shoe Lovers | ALDEN
ALDEN
An Interview with Takamasa Chiwaki, President of Lakota, the General Importer of ALDEN in Japan: "On Alden's Material Selection and Repairs"
Alden, a leading American footwear brand, has been consistently crafting leather shoes for 136 years. Their enduring philosophy is to "continue creating high-quality gear for walking," with a meticulous approach to material selection and a dedication to ensuring that the comfort experienced upon the first wear is maintained even after repairs. In the second installment of this short, intensive series, which delves into untold anecdotes, we speak with Takamasa Chiwaki, President of Lakota, the general importer of Alden in Japan, about the brand's material selection and repair processes.
Photographs by OHTAKI Kaku | Text by KOIZUMI Yoko | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Carefully Selected Materials from Around the World
"Having styles that pair well with Brooks Brothers—that was the fundamental principle of Made in USA shoes."
Around 1980, when Alden first arrived in Japan, the fashion of Japanese youth often took inspiration from the lifestyle of American college students. Their style became a major trend, and loafers became an indispensable item. While trends have shifted over the decades, moving through 'mode' and 'Italian classic,' Alden's timeless designs have remained at the heart of fashion, complementing every kind of coordination.
And now, 40 years later, Alden boasts a lineup of captivating models, but the foundation remains the unparalleled comfort derived from their distinctive lasts. This comfort is supported by carefully chosen, high-quality components and leather materials, including calfskin and cordovan.
"We meticulously select calfskin leather, primarily from Germany, France, and the UK, choosing the most suitable for each model. Material selection isn't delegated; President Arthur (Arthur S. Tarlow Jr.) personally oversees it, and he still inspects the leather every morning before work begins. He's always been hands-on, and there are absolutely no compromises in his shoemaking. Only what meets his discerning eye ever makes it to market."
Cordovan is a material so iconic that Alden is often synonymous with it, and this too undergoes the president's personal inspection. The luster of cordovan, which is said to captivate everyone and grows more beautiful with each treatment, is upheld by his rigorous standards.
LEATHER | Daily leather quality inspections are conducted every morning. This is done to examine the leather under soft natural light, meticulously checking for scratches, veins, and whether it creases under pressure. Only the finest leather is used. Cordovan, which requires extremely detailed inspection, is personally handled by the president with utmost rigor.
CUTTING | Using pattern-making tools to cut the leather, the process involves carefully inspecting the leather for flaws such as scratches, blisters, and veins, while ensuring efficient use of the material. For cordovan, cutting is done by experienced artisans who observe the direction of the grain on the surface.
STITCHING | This is the process of sewing the cut upper leather pieces together. While sewing machines are used, the operation is, of course, done by hand. Achieving beautiful stitching relies on the experience of skilled artisans. Incidentally, for shoes with decorative perforations, such as wingtips, punching is performed before the sewing process.
LASTING | In this process, the sewn leather is stretched and shaped over a last, forming the upper to the last's contours. The optimal force for lasting varies depending on the type of leather—cordovan, calf, or suede—and the shape of the last used. Therefore, Alden employs computer-controlled machines to regulate the applied force.
HANDSEWING | For models like the Tanker Boot and Penny Loafer, the moccasin part is sewn with a hand-stitched skin stitch. This specialized technique, where the needle passes through from the front and exits at the back without showing on the surface, creates a wavy pattern and can only be performed by two artisans in the factory. Sewing cordovan, with its dense fibers, requires significant effort, taking about an hour per shoe.
GOODYEAR WELTED | Alden shoes are constructed using the Goodyear welt method, allowing for sole replacement and ensuring longevity. The process involves sewing a rib, known as a welt, to the upper ( Goodyear stitching), and then attaching the sole to this rib (outsole stitching), a characteristic of this traditional method that contributes to its high durability.
CORK | Alden shoes are filled with cork mixed with pine resin between the insole and outsole. This cork not only provides cushioning but also molds to the wearer's foot shape over time, enhancing the fit. Alden's pursuit of ultimate comfort is rooted in this tradition of "generous cork filling."
FINISHING | Skilled artisans use a rotating cutter to trim the edges of the welt and outsole, ensuring a uniform width without any vertical deviation. Subsequently, paint is applied to the edges, followed by waxing with a cloth buff and careful polishing to achieve a lustrous finish.
DRESSING | After removing dirt and applying finishing cream, the shoes undergo repeated brushing and buffing to achieve a uniform, beautiful sheen on both feet. This is where Alden's long-cultivated expertise in finishing cordovan truly shines.
PACKING | Once the insoles are attached and final inspection is complete, the product number and size are stamped on the shoebox. The shoes are then packed with shoe bags and shipped worldwide.
Repair Work Infused with the Energy of New Shoes
Unlike typical fashion brands, Alden does not release new models every year.
"For Alden, shoes are 'high-quality gear for walking,' and any product that doesn't fulfill this purpose is never released. For example, when planning a new model, it begins with last creation, followed by material selection, sewing, and repeated prototyping through trial wear of the finished shoes. It's not uncommon for this process to take four to five years, and if it's still not satisfactory, the project is scrapped."
This rigor is precisely what defines Alden. And this philosophy extends equally to their repair services.
"Even for parts that aren't visible from the outside, they procure the best available and apply unique processing. Generally, the soles of Goodyear welted shoes are stiff, but Alden's soles are soft and flexible. In essence, the special processing applied by Alden enhances both 'strength' and 'flexibility'—two seemingly opposing qualities. Therefore, nothing surpasses Alden's genuine parts."
Consequently, Lakota House is equipped with all the genuine parts supplied by Alden.
"The concept that 'a shoe must be good from the moment you put it on, and is only completed when worn' applies equally to repairs. Restoring the familiar comfort and appearance is also an unwritten rule of repair."
Lakota House ALDEN SHOE REPAIR SERVICE
With a philosophy of "shoes as gear for walking," ALDEN has been producing leather shoes for over 130 years, using carefully selected original parts that aid in walking. The Goodyear welt construction, which incorporates a cork filling (midsole), was traditionally thought to have poor flexibility due to its thickness. However, ALDEN overcame this challenge with uniquely processed original parts. By using soft yet durable materials for the insole, midsole, and outsole, they achieve remarkable comfort and break the mold of Goodyear welted shoes, which are often described as requiring painful break-in periods.
Furthermore, the toe spring, or the upward curve at the toe, is designed to utilize the motion of walking for enhanced comfort. The rubber heel, featuring the distinctive Foot Balance logo often seen on lasts like the Modified Last, also plays a role in activating arch support, leveraging the characteristics of the last.
These original parts combine to create Alden's signature comfort. Because Alden prioritizes comfort, we encourage you to have your shoes repaired using genuine parts to maintain their original functionality, allowing you to cherish them for 10 or 20 years and enjoy a pair that offers unparalleled comfort.
The availability of ALDEN original parts is a service exclusive to Lakota House. Please feel free to consult our staff regarding any repair needs.
Takamasa Chiwaki, President of Lakota, the general importer of ALDEN in Japan. While working with shoe parts, he met the president of Alden and was entrusted with the role of Japan's import liaison for Alden in 1994. A devoted ALDEN evangelist, he has been captivated by the comfort of Alden shoes.
