Founded in 1884 in Middleborough, Massachusetts, Alden has consistently produced leather shoes. Today, it is a major brand, representing American shoemakers, with fans worldwide. Since becoming the general importer of Alden in Japan in 1994, Lakota has continued to convey the importance of the policy "to continue creating high-quality gear for walking" alongside Alden. In the third installment of this short, intensive series, we spoke with Lakota President Takamasa Chiwaki about his encounter with Alden and his feelings for the brand.

Mr. Chiwaki was involved in handling leather shoe materials and parts, and also operated a Goodyear welt shoe factory, which led him to associate primarily with European material manufacturers and shoe factories.

"I personally love leather shoes, and I used to buy and try on leather shoes from all over the world, from small workshops to fashion brands, wherever I went. Among them, Alden was my favorite shoe."

At that time, Alden was becoming known in Japan, but there was no official importer, and several companies handled the brand in parallel imports.

"I had an acquaintance at one of those companies, and I asked if I could see the factory. I remember being surprised because it was larger than I had imagined. I was able to talk with the president (Arthur S. Tarlow Jr.) about various things."

Aided by being discovered by Pierre Fournier, a pioneer of select shops, Alden had been gaining recognition as a fashion item in Japan since the 1980s. Therefore, when Mr. Chiwaki visited, many of Alden's business partners were in the fashion industry.

However, Mr. Chiwaki was interested in Alden as a "leather shoe manufacturer," and his inquiries were about "making leather shoes," such as materials, construction, processes, and factory management. It seems the president finally found someone with whom he could open his heart, and the two hit it off, engaging in a lively discussion about shoes.

Then, on one of his subsequent visits, the president asked him to take control of the Japanese market.

"I heard that the way Alden is handled varies from shop to shop in Japan. I want you to consolidate information and control the market in Japan,' he said. 'I want someone who understands shoes to handle this job.'

And so, in 1994, Lakota became the general importer of Alden in Japan.

Middleborough, Massachusetts, where Alden's headquarters are located, is a pastoral country town. At that time, the internet was not widespread, and communication was limited to phone or fax. In this context, Mr. Chiwaki's information and unique ideas, stemming from his perspective as a "shoemaker" and a "marketer," were a great stimulus to Alden.

The communication between the two led to the creation of a particular model: the "Tanker Boot." This model uses a military last (the official name is 379X) that was made for military boots during World War II. The inspiration for its creation came in 1994 when Mr. Chiwaki discovered the wartime last sleeping in a warehouse. Sensing the potential of this last, Mr. Chiwaki was eager to see it made into a model, and it was first produced for the Japanese market in 1995.

"Just as old Japanese houses don't check every corner of their storehouses, Alden hadn't reviewed its archives of over 100 years. However, even though it was commonplace for them, everything was fresh to me. By re-examining 100 years of history with a completely different perspective, I made new discoveries."

The newly produced boots were named "Tanker Boots." Twenty-five years after their debut, they have grown into a globally popular model. This model is known as "Tanker Boots" in other countries as well, just as in Japan.

To Alden, Mr. Chiwaki is more than just an importer; he is a global antenna, bringing a fresh perspective to the brand.

In 2000, they opened a shop specializing in Alden, named "Lakota House."

"There's The Dakota, where John Lennon lived in New York, and I heard that it requires special factors beyond just wealth to be a resident. Similarly, Lakota House aims to be a special salon-like space where we directly convey the appeal of carefully selected, high-quality products, primarily Alden, and maintain a certain standard. We want it to be a place where customers choose our products and appreciate our services."

Alden shoes are American-made. Therefore, at Lakota House, they begin by using American measuring tools to convert Japanese centimeter measurements into inch equivalents.

"This difference in perception is surprisingly important. Alden shoes are made relatively large, and often require a different size than 'your usual size.' We focus on helping customers understand Alden's sizing first."

Alden shoes offer a different feel due to the generous toe room (space between the toes and the shoe's tip), and their silhouette tends to appear larger compared to European-made shoes. These differences in appearance also factor into determining the size.

"Alden emphasizes the fit of the arch from the heel to the ball of the foot, and the laces are tightened firmly to ensure a snug fit, almost as if the shoe is worn by the arch. That's why Alden's lace-up shoes have closely spaced eyelets and a larger number of them. While comfort is a subjective sensation that cannot be expressed numerically, these subjective characteristics are the charm of Alden. We believe that explaining this while fitting is essential for understanding."

Generally, many people believe that shoes will "break in with wear" or "stretch and conform over time," even if there are minor imperfections. However, for Alden, shoes are "high-quality gear for walking," and they must be "good shoes" from the moment you put them on.

"If the 'desire to sell' comes first, one might overlook minor flaws. But if the customer later experiences foot pain or difficulty walking, it won't convey the true value of Alden. Our role at Lakota House is to help customers understand Alden's philosophy, introduce them to the perfect pair for them, and assist them in enjoying their shoes for 10 or 20 years."

THE LAKOTA HOUSE EC

On the Lakota House website, "THE LAKOTA HOUSE EC", you can purchase regular Alden models, including those featured in this short, intensive series. Additionally, they carry Lakota's private brand "K.T.LEWISTON," which emphasizes Made in Japan quality, the long-established German brand "KREIS" with over 50 years of history, and their original brand "THE LAKOTA HOUSE," which showcases historical craftsmanship from across Japan.