FASHION /
MEN
June 15, 2015
Hidetoshi Nakata's Bespoke John Lobb Shoes Are Finally Complete (3) | JOHN LOBB
JOHN LOBB | John Lobb
Hidetoshi Nakata's John Lobb Bespoke Finally Completed (3)
François's Ordered Gion Naitou Zori Unveiled
After the Bespoke Fitting in ParisHidetoshi Nakata, who had closely observed the work of master last maker François Madignier, chose to bring François to "Gion Naitou," a venerable Kyoto-based footwear artisan, when he said, "I want to take François there."The craftsman who makes the world's finest men's shoes and the craftsman who makes beautiful zori met last summer through Nakata's introduction.Coincidentally, on the day Nakata's bespoke loafers were delivered to him, the zori ordered by François were also completed. "I never imagined I would be able to fit zori inside a John Lobb store in my lifetime," said Seiji Naito, handing François the "bespoke zori."
Hidetoshi Nakata's John Lobb Bespoke Finally Completed (2)
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)
First, Try Them On with Gion Naitou's Original Fitting
Nakata, who felt that "both François's work and Naito-san's work convey what they value in their craft," facilitated the meeting between the French and Japanese artisans.
Seiji Naito visited the John Lobb Marunouchi store with the completed zori. He first explained to François, "Japanese zori have existed since the Jomon period. They are the world's simplest footwear, supported at three points, and the comfort changes entirely depending on the balance between the front and back."
Naito-san continued, "Since François has never worn geta or zori, I want him to experience them as a Japanese product and feel Japanese culture. It might be a bit uncomfortable at first, but this is the original setting. However, if you prefer to wear them comfortably like slippers, I have my tools here, so I can adjust them immediately."
The original setting involves wearing them with the heel slightly exposed, as Japanese people do. "It's a way of wearing them that allows you to be ready to move, like when wearing a kimono, where you engage your core," he added.
The Principle of Zori: "Walking by Gripping with the Strength of Your Toes"
"Many Japanese people today live in shoes, so there are those who can wear zori and those who cannot," said Naito-san. The difference lies in how one applies force and maintains balance, and fitting zori can change how one moves their body.
When François actually tried them on, they seemed generally tight, and he adjusted them on the spot. "Even among Japanese people, those who can't wear zori lack the strength in their toes. They can't wear them because they can't brace themselves with their toe strength. Please try to be conscious of moving your toes, of 'gripping and walking with the strength of your toes,'" advised Naito-san. For women, he added, strengthening the calf muscles can help reduce swelling.
A Collaboration Between Two Masters Across Borders
Nakata described this zori as a "collaboration between two masters across borders." He continued, "François's choice of hanao (flower straps) is excellent. Historically, like Hideyoshi and Nobunaga, men wore more flamboyant items. Personally, I find it very Japanese. The edges of the zori are lacquered, which ages beautifully, and I hope François enjoys that aspect too."
When asked for advice on wearing the zori, François was told, "They are very sensitive to water, so if they get wet, please stand them up to dry. The upper part is woven from bamboo, and even if it gets damaged by hitting something, it's compressed, so it should be fine."
The reunion of these two skilled artisans was relaxed throughout, and Nakata's deep respect for craftsmen was clearly conveyed.
Hidetoshi Nakata's John Lobb Bespoke Finally Completed (4)To be continued
Footwear Artisan "Gion Naitou"
Tatami Straw Zori from ¥100,000 (Order Price)
Higashiyama-ku, Gion Shijo Sagaru, Kyoto City
Tel. 075-541-7110
Business Hours | 10:30 - 18:00, Irregular Holidays
http://gion-naitou.com/
John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp





