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June 1, 2015
Hidetoshi Nakata's Bespoke John Lobb Shoes Are Finally Complete (1) | JOHN LOBB
JOHN LOBB
Hidetoshi Nakata's John Lobb Bespoke is Finally Complete (1)
A Beautiful Pair of Black Loafers, a Lifelong Companion, is Born
The finished bespoke loafers ordered by Hidetoshi Nakata, brought by Master Last Maker François Madignier, who visits Japan three times a year for the "Bespoke Order Meeting." Nakata took his measurements at theJohn Lobb Marunouchi store, then had a fitting at theJohn Lobb Bespoke Atelier in Paris, and during the process, he took François to Kyoto to meet Seiji Naito, the fifth-generation master craftsman at "Gion Nai-tō," a venerable Kyoto shoemaker.fittingFinally, the pair, perfected through meticulous attention to detail at the John Lobb Marunouchi store, is delivered to his hands. The theme of this series, "A Journey Around the World with Craftsmen, Alongside John Lobb Bespoke," finally reaches its conclusion.Gion Nai-tō.
The Encounter Between John Lobb and a Craftsman from Gion Nai-tō, Facilitated by Hidetoshi Nakata (4)
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)
How Have They Changed Since the Fitting in Paris?
Bespoke, or fully custom-made shoes, which are the very origin of John Lobb, boast over 150 years of history and tradition since their founding in 1858. These are modern works of art, uncompromising in their pursuit of the finest materials, the skills and techniques of master craftsmen, beautiful forms, and supreme comfort.
The Paris Bespoke Atelier employs around 20 craftsmen, but only three, including François Madignier, hold the title of "Master Last Maker," skilled artisans capable of creating lasts (shoe trees).
Regarding this bespoke order, Nakata, who desired loafers he could wear for a lifetime, commented, "Ready-to-wear loafers have noses that are too long, too round, or the instep is too low; I couldn't find anything that matched my ideal of beauty or what I wanted." Based on John Lobb's renowned loafer model, "LOPEZ," minor adjustments were made during the fitting to enhance comfort.
I've Never Worn Shoes This Light in My Life
Upon first trying on the finished shoes handed over by François, Nakata exclaimed in surprise, "They're so light and comfortable, it feels like I'm not wearing anything." His initial impression was, "They're made with soft, light calfskin, but beyond being light, the thin, delicate leather gives them a dressy, luxurious feel."
When François inquired about the fit around the "bony protrusion at the base of his left big toe," a concern for Nakata, he replied, "There's absolutely no problem. If you look closely at the shoe, there's a slight bulge on the left side, but you wouldn't notice it unless you were told. The shape is beautiful, and they look even better when worn than when held in hand, as expected of John Lobb."
Once Nakata put on the loafers, both he and François relaxed, and they chatted for a while. "With John Lobb, you can create any shoe with just four lasts (shoe trees)," Nakata mentioned.
"That's right. For Oxfords and buckles, one last suffices for both semi-square and round toes. Loafers require two, and boots need four," François explained. Responding to this, Nakata laughed, "Then perhaps I'll order a pair of lace-ups next."
Shoes You Can Enjoy for 20 Years with Repairs
When Nakata asked for tips on how to make shoes last longer, François advised, "With repairs, they can last for 20 years, but the upper cannot be repaired if damaged, so please take good care of them with cream and other products. The soles can be repaired. Also, always use shoe trees. Shoe trees prevent them from losing their shape and absorb moisture." He added, "If you wear them in the rain, try placing the shoes on their side to help them dry faster."
John Lobb's bespoke shoes come with dedicated shoe trees, but Nakata noted, "They're a bit trickier to insert and remove than standard shoe trees, so it takes some practice. I suppose that means they fit the shoes perfectly."
These black loafers, chosen as an "eternal basic," will undoubtedly become Nakata's trusted companions.
Hidetoshi Nakata's John Lobb Bespoke is Finally Complete (2)to be continued
John Lobb "Bespoke"
Price: From ¥1,058,000
*Second pair and subsequent pairs using the same last: ¥955,800
Timeline: Approximately 4 months from measurement to fitting, with delivery approximately 4 months later.
John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp



