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April 3, 2015
Kazumi Kurigami Orders Boots at the "John Lobb By Request Fair 2015" | JOHN LOBB
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Kazumi Kurigami Orders Boots at the "John Lobb By Request Fair 2015" (1)
Another Pair of Boots to Sharpen Your Look, Made to Order
Kazumi Kurigami, a photographer whose prolific work includes shooting the cover and feature spread for the Comme des Garçons special issue of "SWITCH" magazine, released in February. OPENERS interviewed Mr. Kurigami in 2011 when he ordered the John Lobb "Scott" boots. This time, he visited the Marunouchi store to create new boots through John Lobb's annual By Request fair.
Photographs by SUZUKI ShimpeiText by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)
Why Mr. Kurigami Loves Boots
During our 2011 interview, Mr. Kurigami spoke of his encounter with John Lobb: "It was nearly 30 years ago. I casually walked into 'Hermès' in Paris, and for some reason, the shoes caught my eye. I picked them up, and the leather felt wonderful. The soles were rubber, and I thought they were perfect for me, given my work, which can be hard on shoes. I bought them on the spot. That was my first."
The boots he wore during that interview were the "Scott," an older model no longer in production, which he had ordered previously. Their charm has only deepened with age.
"I like to tie the laces of my lace-up boots snugly," he says. "It feels like a waste to wear them on desert shoots, so I still wear them carefully for occasions like going to dinner."
Choosing a Model: From Three Popular John Lobb Boots
"I usually wear slim-fitting pants, so I wanted another pair of boots that would sharpen my look," Mr. Kurigami explained, narrowing his choice to boots. First, he tried on the Chelsea boots, the "Tudor," choosing them because they seemed "easier to wear than lace-up styles."
The "Tudor" is a popular model in the Prestige line, a staple of John Lobb boots. He tried on his size, 7E. "Perhaps they look larger because there are no ornaments?" he mused, looking at his reflection in the mirror with both feet on. "They might appear larger because they are slimmer than the 'Scott' and have a longer nose," he was told, seeming to accept the explanation.
Next, he chose the "Jodhpur II," a popular evolution of the jodhpur boot among fans.
The last (shoe tree) is the same 7000 as the "Tudor," but the "Jodhpur II," with its uniquely wrapped slim strap, elicited the comment, "Perhaps a bit too elegant." However, he seemed to like the feel of the suede.
He then tried on the "William II Boot," a boot version of John Lobb's iconic and popular classic model, the "William." The staff advised, "Most people go down half a size in this model," so he tried a size 6.5E.
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Kazumi Kurigami Orders Boots at the "John Lobb By Request Fair 2015" (1)
Finishing the "William II Boot" to His Liking Through By Request
Photographer Kazumi Kurigami tried on the Chelsea boots "Tudor" and "Jodhpur II." For his third choice, he picked up the "William II Boot."
Deciding on the "William II Boot" After Considering Overall Balance
The "William II Boot," an ankle boot version of John Lobb's iconic double-buckle shoe "William," is characterized by its double buckles and hand-sewn toe cap. After trying them on, Mr. Kurigami said, "For this boot too, I think one size down, 6.5E, is right for me. With a 7E, my heel lifts a bit."
He tried them on both feet, looked in the mirror, considered the overall balance, and immediately decided, "I'll take these." Next, he chose the leather and color from the samples. Then, he decided on the "October sole." "The October sole offers better cushioning than a leather sole, and it doesn't look too thick, so it's good," he concluded.
Imagining the Finished Product
Ultimately, the "William II Boot" was decided in size 6.5E, in suede, dark brown color, with silver buckles, and the October sole.
"I chose soft suede for the double-buckle design, which has a strong impression, and a calm dark brown. I'm expecting it to have a refined look with the matching color stitching," he said, envisioning the finished product.
Wearing Good Shoes Ties Everything Together – Your Outfit and Your Mood
Mr. Kurigami commented on the Marunouchi store, which relocated and reopened last year: "The new store has large windows and the merchandise is displayed neatly and is easy to see."
"For both men and women, wearing good shoes is very important. Shoes are the first step to dressing up, and what you wear that day determines your outfit. Even if your clothes are casual, like a washed shirt, you can pull it together if you're wearing good shoes – everyone understands that. I wear my favorite work boots when I go on location shoots in the desert. But it feels like a waste to wear John Lobb in the desert (laughs)."
Mr. Kurigami, who believes "shoes need to be worn to break in and develop character," expects his "William II Boot" ordered through By Request to be completed by the end of the year. We plan to report on its delivery later.
＜John Lobb By Request Fair 2015＞
Sizes: Available in sizes (5-12) and widths (D-EE), depending on the model.
Price: Normally, a surcharge of 30% of the list price applies. During the fair, the surcharge is waived.
Delivery Time: Approximately 10 months.
＜John Lobb By Request Fair 2015 Dates and Stores (Planned)＞
Friday, April 3 - Tuesday, April 7, 2015: Shoes Salon NATORIYA
Friday, April 10 - Tuesday, April 14,John Lobb Iwataya Fukuoka Store(Tel. 092-718-1920) / TAMAYA FOOTWEAR
Friday, April 17 - Tuesday, April 21,John Lobb Hilton Plaza Store(Tel. 06-6346-3933) / Sogo Yokohama Store
Friday, April 24 - Tuesday, April 28: Takashimaya Osaka Store / Seibu Ikebukuro Store
Friday, May 1 - Tuesday, May 5,John Lobb Matsuzakaya Nagoya Store(Tel. 052-264-2190) / UNITED ARROWS Sovereign House
Friday, May 8 - Tuesday, May 12,John Lobb Tokyo Midtown Store(Tel. 03-6459-2425) / Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Store
Friday, May 15 - Tuesday, May 19: WAKO / Isetan Shinjuku Store
Friday, May 22 - Tuesday, May 26,John Lobb Marunouchi Store(Tel. 03-6267-6011) / Hankyu Men's Tokyo
John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp