Hankyu Men's Theme: 'RECONSTRUCTION'

Literally translated, the theme of Hankyu Men's, 'RECONSTRUCTION,' means 'rebuilding, restoration, recovery, or remodeling.' Menswear is moving from its relentless stage of creation to a phase of reconstruction. The key to RECONSTRUCTION lies in silhouette and color.

In the 2014-15 Autumn/Winter collections, brands that emphasized a high affinity with street style were prominent, by altering the overall volume and silhouette. For example, they incorporated casual elements (like sneakers) or sporty touches (like blousons) into tailored pieces.

From these, Hankyu Men's has selected items with new silhouettes, such as boxy tops, cropped blousons, and wide-cropped pants. They propose 'RECONSTRUCTION' as a refined take on workwear for autumn.

Structurally Considered Silhouettes Are the New Frontier

Innovative Yet Relaxed—This season's focus on volume and silhouette centers on contrasting styles: big or boxy silhouettes for tops, and either voluminous or tapered styles for bottoms.

Styling that seems to be conceived from structural principles, much like architectural rationalism (modernism), perfectly reflects the modern preference for comfortable clothing. Within this beauty, there's also room to enjoy the textures and colors.

Furthermore, black makes a comeback this season. For August, Hankyu Men's proposes a theme of 'URBAN RIDER,' coordinating the sophisticated sheen of leather with warm colors. The image is that of an 'active, smart carnivore with a chic demeanor.'

In terms of color, besides black in various textures, shades of brown with a casual feel, like reddish-brown, are also noteworthy. Layering dark colors and focusing on the subtle variations in tone from different materials can be quite interesting.

Enjoy the new challenges of 21st-century luxury brands, mindful of both street style and real-world wearability.

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Focus on Mature Menswear

Shinro Hayashi appeared wearing high-waisted trousers with wide suspenders, a white shirt, and a vest.

Looking at Hankyu Men's autumn/winter catalog, the overall impression is one of mature menswear, with few items designed to surprise with outlandish ideas; it feels basic and neutral. However, there are many points of interest, such as the exquisite materials or the挑戦 to new silhouettes through combinations.

This catalog features real clothes selected by buyers from top global trendsetting brands, with the intention that they will be worn by Hankyu Men's customers. Therefore, it's very enjoyable to view it with the understanding that the buyers have 'interpreted' these pieces for Japanese men to wear in Japan.

Globalization and the Reality of Street Snaps

For instance, ten years ago, mode and classic were distinct and coexisted independently. But today, with accelerated globalization, the distance between Naples and Milan, or Savile Row and Paris, is almost nonexistent. This is arguably the influence and achievement of designers like Tom Ford and Thom Browne. The fusion of mode and classic will undoubtedly continue to evolve.

Furthermore, it's a fact that the range of offerings in department stores and select shops, along with consumers' knowledge of clothing, has improved immeasurably compared to a decade ago.

'Street snap features' are hugely popular in fashion magazines because people want to see real ideas from real people. If product introductions and styling advice hold equal value in fashion magazines today, then perhaps street snaps are even more important.

Street snaps, as we know them, originated from 'The Ivy Leaguers of the Streets' in 'MEN'S CLUB' back in 1963. Even now, the styling of buyers at Pitti Uomo, with their free-spirited approach, offers significant inspiration. It might even contain more information than a stylist's arrangement. That's why readers react so keenly, and trends like the 'maki-mono' (scroll-like wrapping) boom likely started from street style and snaps.

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Expectations for Japanese Menswear Brands

While this catalog, 'THE STYLE MODE EDITION AUTUMN-WINTER 2014,' primarily features European and American brands, I view Japanese menswear brands as having immense potential. Their strength lies in their skillful handling of materials and development of new ones; overseas brands often seek collaboration with Japanese brands precisely because of their material expertise.

Unfortunately, however, Japanese brands lack the kind of simplicity that resonates globally. It's similar to how Japanese films struggle to gain traction internationally, unlike Hollywood or Korean films which have universally accessible narratives. Japanese brands tend to focus on craftsmanship and dedication, leading them down niche paths. While this is irresistible to fashion enthusiasts, it doesn't reach the mass market. This might be a national trait; Japanese men have a craftsman's mindset. This craftsman-like approach is evident across all culture, including music and film, and people enjoy it.

Professionals Make a Statement with What They Wear!

In my own styling, I aim to wear things that others don't. As men age, they tend to look good in almost anything. For those of us in the fashion industry, as professionals, our attire must make a statement; we need to have something to say. It's unacceptable for professionals to chase trends. If you approach dressing with this mindset, you'll discover entirely new ways to coordinate your outfits.

Shinro Hayashi
Having served as editor-in-chief for numerous fashion magazines such as 'MEN'S CLUB,' 'Gentry,' and 'DORSO,' he is now a freelance fashion critic. His dandyism and encyclopedic knowledge of menswear are unparalleled in the fashion industry.
Men's Precious Blog
http://mensprecious.jp/hayashi/

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