After the Try-on, We Asked Nakata for His Impressions

"I tried on ready-to-wear shoes during the fitting in Tokyo, but these were much more comfortable and lighter. Even at this stage, I felt they were good, but the process involves refining the details millimeter by millimeter from this point, and I truly felt the uncompromising craftsmanship of François and his team," he said.

He continued, "They mentioned that the quality of the leather for the try-on shoes is different. Adjusting the fitting at this stage before proceeding to the final product shows their expertise with leather as well. The time and effort spent cutting up a shoe and remaking it demonstrates the artisans' dedication."

A Pair of Loafers for Life

"My expectation for the finished product is that this bespoke order will be a lifelong companion. My commitment from the start was to create a basic shoe that I could wear forever, so I'm truly looking forward to receiving loafers that I can wear for years to come. This time, I'm having them made in black box calf (leather from calves up to 18 months old, known for its exceptional softness), but since there are various types of leather, I'd also like to try making them in other materials and colors," said Nakata.

Regarding François, an artisan who holds one of only three "Master Last Maker" titles at John Lobb, Nakata commented, "It's natural for artisans to have their own unique approaches. Those with experience and their own ideas are consistently efficient. François's try-on process was also seamless. While their tools, like the knives used to check the fitting by cutting the shoes, are not often highlighted, there are also artisans who make these tools. I'd be interested in exploring that aspect further in my reporting."

François After the Try-on...

"The try-on went smoothly, so the realization (réalisation) will likely go well too. There weren't many adjustments needed at the try-on stage, but because Nakata's feet are accustomed to sports, the modifications were somewhat complex, and it was notable that the adjustments were concentrated on the left foot. Specifically, we widened the outside of the little toe on the left foot by 1 millimeter, widened the base of the big toe by 1 millimeter, reduced the heel by 3 millimeters because it was too loose, and reduced the ankle opening by 2 millimeters. The right foot was perfect. While we sometimes do two fittings, Nakata's shoes were fine after this one try-on," said François.

"I will be visiting Tokyo and Osaka in mid-July for John Lobb's bespoke order event, so I will be able to meet Nakata again then. It seems I'll be able to facilitate the exchange between artisans that Nakata proposed in Kyoto, and I'm excited about it. I plan to visit a workshop for Zori, traditional Japanese footwear, and I imagine their work is quite similar to what I do daily."

When asked about his impression of Nakata, François replied, "I really hit it off with Nakata, and it was easy to work with him. I travel worldwide to measure for shoes, but Japanese clients are the most trusting and respectful, making the work very smooth. This naturally inspires me to do my best work."

Next, we will report on the meeting between French and Japanese artisans, facilitated by Nakata, moving away from John Lobb's bespoke services.

Hidetoshi Nakata Connects John Lobb Artisans with "Gion Nai-tō" (Part 1)To be continued