FASHION /
MEN
May 1, 2015
HANKYU MEN'S TOKYO | The Pre-Fall Collections You'll Want to Wear Now
HANKYU MEN'S TOKYO | Hankyu Men's Tokyo
Autumn/Winter 2024: The "Pre-Fall" Collection Arrives in June
Hankyu Men's Tokyo's "Pre-Fall" Collection: Pieces You'll Want to Wear Now
The "pre-fall" collection, which lands in stores in June ahead of the main autumn/winter collections unveiled at runway shows, offers an early glimpse into the season's brand message. Increasingly significant in the annual fashion calendar, pre-fall serves as a prelude or an advance guard for the autumn/winter season. Here, Kaname Murakami, editor-in-chief of "FASHION NEWS" and senior editor at "WWD Japan," explains the essence of pre-fall.
Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by OZAWA Tatsuya (PORTRAIT)
Three Reasons Why Pre-Fall Has Become So Important
The concept of pre-fall and pre-spring collections originated with womenswear. About a decade ago, cruise collections—also known as pre-spring—emerged, offering vacation wear for wealthy Westerners heading to warmer climes during the year-end holidays.
Since then, both pre-spring and pre-fall have grown in importance, becoming a primary business driver for womenswear. Consequently, top-tier brands in menswear are also increasing their focus on these "pre" collections.
The first reason for the growing importance of pre-fall is its extended selling period. While the main collections are typically released from late July to mid-August, pre-fall items can be available in stores as early as late May, offering a longer window for sales.
Secondly, whereas the main collections often feature strong messaging, such as runway showpieces, pre-fall collections offer more wearable items like versatile sets, knits, and shirts suitable for daily use.
Thirdly, while main collections increasingly emphasize couture techniques and advanced materials, pre-collections offer a refined design sensibility that hints at the upcoming main collection, often at a more accessible price point. For instance, Givenchy might release items featuring their signature graphics, allowing customers to enjoy pieces that bridge seasons and can be worn for an extended period.
GUCCI
ETRO
GIVENCHY
Pre-Fall's Signature: "Autumn Colors, Summer Fabrics"
Pre-fall acts as a bridge between the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons. Items in the pre-fall collection often feature darker, autumn-inspired hues but are crafted from lighter, summer-appropriate fabrics, making them wearable immediately. Buyers for department stores and select shops review pre-collections alongside the main collections, leading to unique finds in stores that might not appear on the runway.
Within the fashion calendar, June marks the presentation of the following year's spring/summer collections for menswear, while womenswear presentations typically occur in September. However, recently, an increasing number of brands are showcasing their pre-collections on the runway concurrently with the June menswear main collection presentations.
Brands like Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton for womenswear now host dedicated pre-collection runway shows. In menswear, Prada, Carven, and Givenchy are actively promoting their pre-collections, making them unmissable events.
Kaname MURAKAMI
Born in Shizuoka Prefecture in 1977. After graduating from Tohoku University's Faculty of Education, he began his journalism career in the social affairs department of the Shizuoka Shimbun. His early assignments focused on serious crimes and accidents. After leaving the newspaper, he studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Following a "Devil Wears Prada"-esque period in the city, he joined INFAS Publications. He is currently the editor-in-chief of "Fashion News" and a senior editor at "WWD Japan."
Fashion News
http://www.wwdjapan.com/publication/fashion_news/
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HANKYU MEN'S TOKYO | Hankyu Men's Tokyo
Autumn/Winter 2024: The "Pre-Fall" Collection Arrives in June
Hankyu Men's "Pre-Fall" Collection: Pieces You'll Want to Wear Now (Part 2)
Hankyu Men's is actively showcasing the increasingly important "pre-fall" collection this season. For pre-fall, they propose two themes based on casual tailoring with an infusion of sport: "Savile Sport" and "Casual Tailoring." Norio Hanatani, General Manager of Luxury Goods, and Seijiro Hoshika, the buyer in charge, discuss these themes that capture current trends.
Photographs by HOZUMI Hitomi (PORTRAIT)
We Want You to Experience a New Flow of Shopping (Manager Hanatani)
Norio HanataniTraditionally, the spring/summer season ran from December to May, with a brief period for early autumn items and sales before the full autumn/winter launch in mid- to late August. However, due to shifts in seasonal timing between hot and cold periods, the "pre-collection" concept, which has become established in womenswear, is now gaining traction in menswear.
Hankyu Men's carries approximately 90 luxury brands, and about a third of them officially present pre-collections. To allow customers to experience these proposals early, we have produced a "PRE-FALL catalog" this season and will be proposing a new shopping flow through intermittent pop-up shops in June, July, and August.
Seijiro HoshikaFor pre-fall, we've established Hankyu Men's unique themes: "Savile Sport" and "Casual Tailoring." This autumn/winter, many brands incorporate sportswear elements. For example, Giorgio Armani offers items like double-breasted jackets tailored with raglan sleeves, blending sophistication with sporty touches without compromising elegance.
In casual tailoring, Givenchy pairs printed T-shirts, a key autumn trend, with tailored pieces for a mature aesthetic. For casual wear combined with Savile Sport, Neil Barrett exemplifies this with his signature "hybrid" (color-blocked) designs, paired with graphic tees and ribbed hem pants—a quintessential pre-fall look, completed with high-top sneakers.
We Hope You'll Use This as Style Inspiration (Buyer Hoshika)
HanataniWhat to focus on for pre-fall is that items wearable now, such as lightweight fabrics for summer combined with autumn's dark tones, are the first to arrive in stores. Also, as it's an early introduction to autumn/winter, the fact that you can wear them for an extended season is a key point.
HoshikaPre-fall collections hint at the main autumn/winter collections while showcasing the luxurious materials, exquisite tailoring, and layering possibilities unique to high-end brands. Therefore, we hope you'll refer to the looks featured in the catalog as inspiration for styling during this transitional season. As it holds a significant position in the annual fashion calendar, understanding pre-fall trends provides insight into the season's direction.
HanataniThe growing attention to pre-collections is a phenomenon unique to the fashion-forward Japanese market. In a sense, it's no exaggeration to say that menswear pre-collections are being led and disseminated from Japan to the global market.
For this pre-fall season, we've developed collaborations such as the "Garage T," created exclusively for Hankyu Men's with brands from Garage D.Edit, centered around a football theme, as well as a collaboration with Mastermind Japan.
Look Forward to Hankyu Men's Tokyo's Autumn Renovations and Renewals (Manager Hanatani)
HanataniHankyu Men's Tokyo will be renovating its 2nd and 4th floors around August 23rd (Saturday). Valentino (scheduled for August 27th, Wednesday) will open on the 2nd floor, while the 4th floor will feature the world's first 3.1 Phillip Lim shop, alongside the world's first shops for Mackintosh x Band of Outsiders and Marni x Porter, as well as a Neighborhood shop. We aim to further strengthen Hankyu Men's unique identity and enhance our information dissemination.
HoshikaFurthermore, from August onwards, we will continue to host pop-up shops utilizing the 1st-floor event space. In October, we will celebrate Hankyu Men's Tokyo's 3rd anniversary. Please look forward to an even more enjoyable autumn/winter season than last year.
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