Hidetoshi Nakata Confronts a John Lobb Artisan (Measurement 2) | JOHN LOBB
JOHN LOBB
Hidetoshi Nakata Travels the World with John Lobb Bespoke
Hidetoshi Nakata Faces John Lobb's Craftsmen (Measurement - 2)
François Madignier, John Lobb's Master Last Maker, quickly understood the unique characteristics of Hidetoshi Nakata's big toe bone, as he had faced similar challenges himself. The measurement was complete. The next step is to decide on the design. For this bespoke order, Nakata expressed a desire for "a refined loafer that pairs well with jeans."
Hidetoshi Nakata Faces John Lobb's Craftsmen (Measurement - 1)
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)
The Pursuit of Perfection Leads to Simplicity
"This is my first bespoke order with John Lobb, but I have commissioned suits and hats before. What I learned from having suits made is that what's easy to wear isn't always stylish. With shoes, if they were made to perfectly match my foot shape, especially my feet, they would likely look quite distorted. The true pleasure of bespoke lies in how craftsmen adjust those aspects to create a beautiful form. It's like cooking, relying on the craftsman's sense of taste. How much spice to add, whether their sense of balance matches my preference. It's a feeling that transcends understanding."
Now, having completed the measurement, Nakata had decided to have loafers made this time.
"Considering my foot structure (bones), lace-up shoes that can be adjusted by how tightly they're tied would be more comfortable. However, since this is a bespoke order, I want to have a pair of beautiful loafers made that I can wear for a lifetime. Ready-made loafers often have noses that are too long, too round, or the instep is too low; I haven't found the beautiful, desired style."
Neither excessively long noses in a modern style nor overly classic designs would suffice. "It's about whether François and I share a similar sensibility and interpretation of the roundness of the nose." The pursuit of perfection ultimately leads to simplicity.
Trying on "FENCOTE" and "LOPEZ"
First, François brought out the loafer model "FENCOTE," size 8.5. "Hmm, this is a modern design. It would likely suit dress styles like suits, but I prefer a slightly retro feel when wearing jeans, and this might not match. I'm looking for a refined loafer that pairs well with jeans."
At this point, a staff member offered an iPad, saying, "Please use this for inspiration." It contained archives of past bespoke orders. Nakata flicked through the screens, searching for something that resonated with his vision.
Next, François presented "LOPEZ," a renowned classic from John Lobb, in size 8. "The size is just right, but the width is a bit tight, and my bones press against it. Sizing is tricky. With 8.5, my bones don't press, but I prefer the silhouette of this one."
François listened silently to Nakata's feedback, making notes on the measurement form, and then took photos of the trial fitting from every angle with his smartphone.
In the next step, details such as material, color, lining, and sole would be decided. "This time, it's black loafers. That's settled. I hope to wear beautiful loafers well and elegantly," Nakata said, firmly shaking François's hand with anticipation for his skill.
Hidetoshi Nakata Faces John Lobb's Craftsmen (Measurement - 3)To be continued
John Lobb "Bespoke"
Price | From ¥993,600 (tax included)
*Second pair on the same last: ¥891,000
Timeline | Approximately 4 months from measurement to trial fitting (try-on), with delivery approximately 4 months later.
John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp





