Bespoke 'Measurement' Takes About an Hour

'While talking with Mr. Matsuda (Tomooki Matsuda, President of John Lobb Japan), I learned about the existence of 'Master Last Makers,' of whom there are only three in the world among John Lobb's bespoke craftsmen. I immediately requested to meet this craftsman, who is rarer than a fashion designer, at least once. I traveled around Japan, met many artisans and traditional craftspeople, and became a fan of theirs. I feel that if I can connect these artisans, we can create something even more interesting.'

Nakata explained that this time as well, he wanted to meet François Madignier, talk with him, get to know him, and if he became even more interested, he hoped to connect him with Japanese traditional 'craftsmanship' in some form.

Nakata's Foot Shape Concerns

'My feet are wide and high-instep, which is common among Japanese people. A distinguishing feature is a prominent bone at the base of my left big toe. During my playing days, the lubricating fluid between the bones disappeared, causing the bone to protrude. So, when buying ready-to-wear shoes, my criterion is whether that part rubs and causes pain. If I wear shoes that are the correct size, the width is too tight and it hits the bone. To avoid that, I go up a size, which prevents hitting the bone but doesn't fit my foot well. Also, my left and right feet are different sizes. When accurately measured, my left is 26.25cm and my right is 26.65cm.'



He mentioned that during his professional career, his soccer cleats were custom-made. 'I would take off my shoes, place my foot into a soft molding material, and have the foot shape taken to create them.'

For John Lobb's bespoke measurement, after tracing the foot shape onto paper while wearing socks, the craftsman proceeds to measure the circumference of the foot, including the instep. This method, unlike the spike measurements Nakata was accustomed to, relies on the craftsman's skill, intuition, and experience.



The conversation between Nakata and François centered on the issue of the protruding bone at the base of the big toe. François touched and confirmed the area that had been mentioned multiple times, saying, 'François also has protruding bones. Mine protrude upwards, while his protrude sideways. It seems he understands foot concerns.'

Once the measurements were complete, the next step was selecting the design. Nakata's clear desire was for 'a pair of elegant loafers that I can wear for a lifetime.'

Hidetoshi Nakata Confronts the John Lobb Craftsman (Measurement - 2)To be continued