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January 13, 2015
Paul Smith LONDON | Suits Fusing British Tradition and Modernism
Paul Smith LONDON | Suits Fusing British Tradition and Modernism
Tailoring Craftsmanship Lives in the Details
The Suit Line Fusing British Tradition and Modernism (1)
Paul Smith is highly regarded as a collection brand that graces the runway. However, the brand's greatest appeal undoubtedly lies in its suits. They offer a combination of sewing techniques underpinned by solid tailoring and playful, design-led elements. The suit line that embodies both of these is Paul Smith London. This time, we delve into the exquisite sewing techniques, down to the finest details, as assessed by Mr. Tsuyoshi Nishioka, a luminary in the Japanese modelist world.
Interview Photographs by SAYAMA JunmaruEdit & Text by Matsumoto Yu-ka
Modified Models for the Japanese Market
Paul Smith London presents suits based on traditional British tailoring, infused with contemporary trends. This collection is characterized by its sophisticated British style, achieved through modern fitting and delicate color arrangements.
In Japan, the imported Paul Smith London suits are pattern-made for the domestic market, creating a unique modified model found nowhere else in the world. Naturally, Mr. Paul Smith oversees everything from fabric selection to tailoring. The suits are sewn in Japanese factories that have earned his approval, breathing new life into the existing collection through meticulous direction.
A Modelist Authority Unravels the Excellence of Paul Smith London
To examine the quality of Paul Smith London suits, we invited Mr. Tsuyoshi Nishioka, a renowned modelist, to experience them firsthand. Mr. Nishioka, a master of his craft in Japan, began learning sewing at 17 and has since developed formal patterns for world-renowned brands like Aquascutum and Paul Stuart, and has also had ties with Huntsman of Savile Row. A deconstructed suit was prepared on-site, allowing for an in-depth analysis of the internal structure that shapes the suit.
Modelist Tsuyoshi Nishioka
—What are the key features of this suit?
It's the 'mae-kata' construction, tailored to the Japanese physique where the shoulder point sits forward of the neck base. The shoulder construction has ample room to avoid pressure on the shoulder tip, ensuring a comfortable fit. The armhole is meticulously reinforced with stay tape, preventing deformation and maintaining a beautiful shoulder line. Additionally, the sleeve head at the shoulder joint is split. This is a detail found in traditional British garments, characterized by a straight silhouette without a prominent shoulder roll.
—What did you notice about the internal structure?
It's the work on the lapel's 'hassashi' (hand-stitching) where the interlining and fabric are joined. Many mass-produced suits use adhesive to bond the interlining, but this one features machine 'hassashi'. With an 8.5cm narrow lapel, the stitching is incredibly fine, with a pitch of 15 rows. For a lapel of this size, a typical count would be around 10 rows, so this is exceptionally detailed. This ensures the lapel rolls naturally, creating a beautiful, soft yet structured effect. It's an ideal lapel.
Strong buildings have solid foundations, and clothing is no different. Paul Smith suits are built on a proper foundation. For example, the pocket bags for the waist and chest pockets are securely attached to the internal canvas. Many suits omit this step. This unseen extra effort ensures the suit maintains its shape even after cleaning, preventing it from falling apart. The stitching at the base of the vents also serves a functional purpose in preventing deformation.
Particularly noteworthy is the jacket's lining. It's made of 100% cupro in a satin weave, offering a smooth feel and exceptional wearing comfort. Furthermore, the detailed taping, colorful stitching, and varied liner colors for different parts indicate meticulous craftsmanship. This aspect alone makes it a valuable piece; it's no exaggeration to say the lining is a key charm of Paul Smith London suits.
Three Lines Defining This Season's Paul Smith London
Kensington
The Byard
Standard
This season's lineup includes the popular slim-fit 'Kensington' model, and the 'Standard,' which embodies the brand's roots and upholds traditional British style. Joining them is the new 'The Byard' model, positioned as an intermediate option, featuring a relaxed fit.
Paul Smith LONDON
Tailoring Craftsmanship Lives in the Details
The Suit Line Fusing British Tradition and Modernism (2)
Photographs by SHIMAMOTO KazuoStyling by YOSHIDA MinoruEdit & Text by MATSUMOTO Yu-ka
Three Suit Lines Merging Tradition and Innovative Design
Paul Smith London suits, adapted to a silhouette befitting the Japanese physique, are broadly categorized into three lines. Each boasts a unique design strongly reflecting Mr. Paul Smith's direction. These collections, where traditional British details coexist with modern, body-fitting forms, represent the brand's origins.
Kensington
Emphasizing the Bodyline with a Snug Fit
The 'Kensington' offers the slimmest fit in the series, closely tracing the body's contours. Within the generally slim Paul Smith London range, this model is specifically designed to enhance the wearer's silhouette. Not only are the proportions of the chest, waist, and shoulder width streamlined, but the rise is also shallow, and details like the belt loops and flaps are compactly designed.
The sharp, angled flower hole, designed to complement the sleek lapels, will create an eye-catching V-zone. The model's name, linked to London's upper-class districts, also carries Paul Smith's signature humor.
The elegantly curved, shaped waistline is a defining design element of this model. The double-piped waist pockets have short flaps, creating a minimalist impression.
The inner pocket features a 'daiba' construction, allowing for maintenance of the facing fabric when the lining is replaced. This thoughtful detail, designed for longevity, embodies the essence of tailoring.
The Byard
The 'Medium' Option
The 'Byard' is a new Paul Smith London model that, while based on classic British style, offers a slightly more compact, medium silhouette. It provides a more relaxed feel than the tight-fitting 'Kensington' and a slimmer fit than the 'Standard.' With narrower lapels and a center vent in the back, it presents a smart appearance, making it suitable for everyday business settings.
The name 'Byard' for this suit line originates from the street where Paul Smith opened his first store in Nottingham when he founded the brand.
This line features versatile variations such as medium light gray and blue-gray suitable for spring and summer, as well as navy. The center vent in the back has a deep slit, which, despite its simple design, alleviates stress on the body during movement. The slub-like fabric used here is 'Super 130's,' a high-grade material from Italy's REDA.
Standard
An Enduring Original
This is the core, classic model that has supported Paul Smith London for many years. It inherits the robust, traditional British style, featuring wider lapels and thicker shoulder pads. It is renowned as the most relaxed business model in the series.
Complementing its sturdy appearance is a vibrant lining, unlike that found in other suit brands. The playful spirit, a hallmark of the brand's identity, is a key charm of the Standard line.
The 'mae-kata' (forward shoulder) construction, adapted for Japanese physiques where shoulders tend to be positioned forward, maintains a structured British silhouette.
In contrast to its robust style, the lining features a beautiful English garden print, an icon of the brand. The lining, which Mr. Paul Smith describes as 'interior,' creates a striking contrast with the traditional British tailoring, elevating this suit into a uniquely distinctive model.
Introducing the 'Tailored Collection Campaign' with a Complimentary Limited Edition Hanger
The season for Paul Smith's biannual 'Tailored Collection Campaign' has arrived once again. Running from Saturday, February 22nd to Monday, March 31st, customers purchasing eligible suits during this period will receive a special edition hanger on a first-come, first-served basis. The wooden hanger, finished in pink, is printed with an illustration of an English gentleman and the brand logo.
Tailored Collection Campaign
Period | Saturday, February 22 - Monday, March 31
Participating Stores | All Paul Smith Men's Shops Nationwide
Paul Smith's official Facebook page currently features a variety of suit options not shown on this page, along with event and shop information. We encourage you to check it out as well.
Paul Smith Official Facebook Page
https://ja-jp.facebook.com/pages/Paul-Smith-JAPAN/155005954585509
Paul Smith Limited
Tel. 03-3486-1500
www.paulsmith.co.jp