Pierluigi's Sensitivity in Reading the Times

Pierluigi Boglioli is the third generation, a direct descendant of the founder. His elder brother, Mario, handles the business management, while Pierluigi, the youngest, serves as the designer. The "K jacket," born from the bold idea of washing cashmere, the "Dover" which took the world by storm upon its debut two years ago, and this year's highly popular "Knit" – all are his creations. We had the opportunity to interview him during his visit to Japan.

──How did the current trend of lightweight, garment-dyed jackets with a relaxed construction come about?

“From the late 80s to the 90s, I believe the perception of formality in classic style began to change. Dynamic ways of wearing jackets with denim, for instance, gained support from people with a youthful spirit, regardless of age. The casual wear sector was quick to react. At that time, many manufacturers and designers were garment-dyeing T-shirts, sweaters, and trousers, creating a worn-in look. It was likely the zeitgeist. However, no one was garment-dyeing jackets. So, Boglioli, a specialist in jacket manufacturing, was the first to tackle garment-dyed jackets. This involved not only dyes and fabrics but also significant considerations for tailoring. Through trial and error, we arrived at the Neapolitan style of jacket. Boglioli's style is born from the collaboration of fabric mills, dyers, and tailors.”

Collections Evolve with the Times

Not just the Italian fashion industry, but the entire world is watching Pierluigi Boglioli's foresight. As his words suggest, this is not based on abstract concepts from the maker's perspective, but on meticulous market analysis that interprets the era's sensibilities from the wearer's point of view. Japan is Boglioli's second-largest market internationally, following Italy, with Germany, the Netherlands, the United States, and Spain coming next.

“Japanese people understand comfort and how to dress well. I also feel that many are discerning consumers who can choose items with care and recognize quality. Japan was the first country outside Italy to truly appreciate Boglioli's appeal. These soft jackets suit a relaxed style that isn't overly formal, which I believe resonated with the Japanese preference.

Globally, contemporary young people are growing up without experiencing the traditional, substantial classic style. For them, formality, even when wearing a jacket, is entirely different from the old classics. It's clear that garment-dyed and unconstructed jackets have become appropriate for the new generation's formality, creating a new era of 'formality.'”

He reads the market accurately from a classic perspective. While a classic maison, its collections transform as dynamically as those of designer brands. Pierluigi is not only a designer but also a rare talent in merchandising.

──What can we expect from next season's collection?

“Next season, the Knit will not be part of the collection. For those who loved the Knit, we are proposing a model that I am confident they will embrace in its successor. The Dover will become more elaborate. As a result of pursuing comfort and jacket aesthetics, it will be replaced by the Dover 2G model, which incorporates more structure. This will integrate the Knit. The world view as a style remains unchanged, but it will become softer and slightly more structured. The shoulders will feature small pads and sleeve heads. We will offer wool and cotton materials, and a two-button jacket will also be added to the collection.”

Looking to the Next Era with Roberto Farchi

Boglioli's predecessor was Lucasmoda. Founded by Pietro, the grandfather who came from a sartorial background, and his father Giuseppe, it was a traditional jacket factory that they expanded. After changing the company name and with the brothers managing both business and design, they have been offering a total collection including shirts, knits, and trousers since two years ago.

Around the same time, they brought in Roberto Farchi, who had served as a country manager for major luxury maisons. He has experience working in Japan and possesses deep knowledge of markets not only in Europe and America but also in Asia.
The significance of bringing in external talent to a factory that has been run by a family is immense.

──What was the reason for bringing Roberto Farchi into Boglioli?

“The family has brought us to our current level, but to grow further as a company from here, we need new initiatives in sales and marketing. To move to the next stage, we need someone who can bring in fresh perspectives. By partnering with Roberto Farchi, we believe we can establish a foothold for international growth. He is very familiar with the Asian and American markets, so we expect Boglioli to build an international presence and achieve further expansion in distribution.”

As a future project, we are considering opening Boglioli's own shops. I believe Milan would be the starting point, but we want to realize overseas expansion early on. Naturally, this includes Japan as well. While we are not yet ready, if the collection becomes more robust, participation in Milan Fashion Week may be possible. As a long-term project, we are also considering the success of fashion shows.”

Boglioli, which began as a small sartoria, is taking flight as an international maison. The map is already drawn, and Pierluigi holds the reins, deciding where the journey will land.

Finally, I asked him which jacket among Boglioli's many collections would best suit Japanese men. To my surprise, his answer was the same as what the owner of a Neapolitan tailor shop told me when I asked, 'Which jacket suits me?'

“I have nothing to say. Our job is to listen to what our customers want.”

Pierluigi Boglioli has firmly inherited the DNA of the sartoria.

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BUYER'S RECOMMENDATION OF BOGLIOLI FROM THE WORLD!

Mr. Alan Nam – Samsung – KOREA

1. Why do you think Boglioli is so popular?

I first discovered Boglioli at Pitti Immagine Uomo in 2007 and was the first to purchase it in Korea. Its versatility, suitable for both business and relaxed occasions, is something our Korean customers appreciate. The silhouette is as perfect as bespoke tailoring, yet it lacks the stiffness of a formal jacket. It aligns perfectly with the current global casual trend.

2. What is your favorite Boglioli jacket?

I believe the garment-dyed jackets, which I often wear myself, are representative of Boglioli. I particularly love their creative color sense, which enhances my personal style. The colors are like those of my favorite vintage wine, and whenever I wear them with a button-down shirt or T-shirt, people always ask, 'Where did you get that jacket?'

3. A message for Boglioli.

Please continue to be as creative as ever!

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Mr. Giuseppe Angiolini – Sugar – Italy

1. Why do you think Boglioli is so popular?

I believe it's due to the fusion of exclusive materials and sartorial craftsmanship. Boglioli was the first brand to propose "WORN LUXURY." It features understated details and a vintage feel, making it easy to wear.

2. What is your favorite Boglioli jacket?

The K jacket, made with washed cashmere, is a symbol of true luxury with its understated appearance, never flaunting its high-quality material. The cotton twill jacket is also perfect for weekend leisure. The concept itself is very modern.

3. A message for Boglioli.

I hope you will further solidify Boglioli's identity and continue your relentless research into material development.

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Ms. Giorgina Siviero – San Carlo – Italy

1. Why do you think Boglioli is so popular?

First and foremost, comfort. The unconstructed jacket envelops the body without hindering arm or shoulder movement. Boglioli's appeal also lies in its skillful material development and use of intermediate colors.

2. What is your favorite Boglioli jacket?

The K jacket. Its unique concept created a sensation in comfort jackets.

3. A message for Boglioli.

While your strengths in material development and fit are unparalleled, I hope you will continue to push these boundaries even further.