What's New in the Innovative Model That Changed Menswear?

Maisons that understand classic tailoring are meticulous about the three-dimensional construction of the shoulders and chest, ensuring they never compromise its integrity. They strive to create form by skillfully employing ironing techniques, combining interlinings and padding. However, Boglioli has boldly removed the padding. This move by Boglioli would later send ripples through the industry.

The form, constructed with only canvas interlining, maintains a distinct tailored style while achieving an exceptionally light feel. Such comfortable dresswear had never existed before. Consequently, it is said that those who try it on for the first time often purchase two or three pieces in different materials of the same model.

This season, we would like to reconfirm its appeal by bringing together all the new models.

"B4302G" is a cotton jacket that follows the lineage of the "Coat" model, which became the turning point for Boglioli's history from the 1990s onwards. It features a compact double-breasted design with a narrow lapel width and a short length, accented by semi-circular metal buttons in a military style. Its casual look, with patch pockets, sets it apart from traditional double-breasted jackets. The jacket, constructed without auxiliary materials such as wool interlining or shoulder pads, is given a unique texture through the Tint in Capo (garment dyeing) process.

The "K Jacket," which boldly incorporated the "garment dyeing process" into wool jackets in 2003, overturning the conventional wisdom of classic styles at the time, continues to be part of the lineup. The patterning, adjusted for shrinkage due to garment dyeing, the puckering of the stitching, and the faded, used look with white undertones are all characteristic. The construction technique, using only the facing without shoulder pads or wool interlining, and the elaborate process of sewing the sleeve lining after dyeing, result in a comfortable wearing experience.

"The "Wight," which features an unstructured form constructed solely with wool interlining and no shoulder pads, embodies the core of the classic style that Boglioli champions. As the successor to the "Dover" introduced in 2008, it is a model that corresponds to more elegant styling. It is also known for its diverse material variations; this one is made of jersey material with a printed herringbone pattern. The ease of wear afforded by the stretch fabric is realized at a high level.



This season's new model, "Vinegar," shares the same design as the "K Jacket" but is made with a completely unlined construction for both the shoulders and the body. The wool-silk blend material has been shrunk through Tint in Capo, and the fabric surface has been processed to create a pilling effect. The lapel edges feature double stitching, and the gorge line is finished with a single-folded seam. While there are differences in details, such as the loose sleeve lining sewn on after the washing process, the lightness of wearing a single piece of fabric is truly remarkable.

The double-breasted model of "Wight" is "Wight Doppio." Introduced this autumn as the double-breasted version of "Wight," which appeared in the 2010 SS season. While sharing the double-breasted design with "B4302G," this model uses wool material with camel-colored interlining. Therefore, the shoulder area has a structured construction, providing a refined appearance as a dress jacket. It is adorned with footed buttons made of black lacquer with a crown embossed on them. Its rigid look, without any washing process, makes it suitable for elegant business attire.

The "Upper," a field jacket-inspired model, is a four-button jacket with a change pocket. The construction, with a separate liner attached, allows for a blouson-like finish without shoulder pads, as has been the case previously. The peak lapels of the small collar can be worn in a rough stand-up style. The narrow V-zone is a characteristic of this style, which is designed for casual wear. This version uses knit material, but fabric versions are also available.

The double-breasted knit jacket "M4" suggests Boglioli's new direction. In fact, a full collection of items has been available for the past two seasons, and this outerwear knit can be considered a hybrid. The low-gauge knit is garment-dyed, and the metal semi-circular buttons are engraved with a crest. With decorative buttons on the sleeves and no sleeve lining, and the waist pockets adopting a blouson knit style, it is expected to be worn like a cardigan.

In addition to these, the current collection includes the "Dover," which became explosively popular upon its introduction in 2008, as well as a diverse lineup of shirts, knits, and pants. However, significant changes are planned for this lineup next season. Boglioli has already transformed into a total maison that can no longer be described solely as a classic brand.

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BUYER'S RECOMMENDATION OF BOGLIOLI!

While the style is certainly important, the texture and fabric feel achieved through Tint in Capo, without compromising elegance, is unparalleled. Dignity, grace, and quality are crucial factors for classic clothing, and Boglioli excels in all of them. Their ability to balance and lead the next generation of classics has become even more apparent since they began offering a total collection. It is perhaps only UA that offers such a comprehensive lineup in Japan, including shirts, knits, and pants. By viewing the full range, one can gain a deeper understanding of Boglioli's vision.

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About 15 years ago, it was considered best for classic jackets to have wool interlining, especially horsehair interlining. In an era where construction was paramount, they introduced the light comfort of unstructured construction, enhanced by the unique texture of Tint in Capo. This was a pioneer that breathed new life into the classic world without deviating from its boundaries. Today, the shift towards casualization in dresswear is a path paved by Boglioli. It is likely that Boglioli has already foreseen whether this trend will reverse or if there is still room for further evolution.