JOHN LOBB | A Direct Interview with the Creative Director on Location (Part 1)

JOHN LOBB | JOHN LOBB

Creative Director Leading John Lobb

Andrés Hernández Speaks Extensively (Part 1)

For thisJohn LobbOur on-site coverage approached the theme of “Exploring John Lobb's Unceasing Design Evolution.” While many brands in the luxury ready-to-wear men's shoe category rest on their laurels with classic or long-selling models, John Lobb consistently presents designs that showcase the pinnacle of craftsmanship, using the finest leathers, through its annual models, Japan-exclusive editions, and its Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections. We spoke with Creative Director Andrés Hernández, who is at the heart of these bold challenges.

Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by ARAKI Ryuji

Expanding Production Lines for New Challenges

Northampton is globally renowned as the heart of the British shoemaking industry. On Oliver Street, near the town center, where a rugby ground sits and the brick-built streetscape typical of the British countryside unfolds, lies the John Lobb factory. It might be a surprise if you're picturing a typical “factory,” as it blends so naturally into the streetscape. However, this summer, the factory store and accounting departments were separated, and the production lines were expanded.

“This building was constructed over 100 years ago, and John Lobb began using it 27 years ago. Every staff member has a deep connection and affection for this building,” explains Andrés Hernández, the Creative Director who oversees all of John Lobb's shoemaking.

“We expanded the production lines this time because our customers' discerning tastes have grown, and the demand for truly valuable, authentic products has increased. This expansion allows us to move to the next level and undertake new challenges. We don't want to stand still.”

Few people have likely visited a shoe factory, but typical shoe factories have a strong smell of leather and adhesive, and are overwhelmingly noisy with machinery. Visiting John Lobb with this impression, we were again surprised. The reception area that greeted us was like an office, and from the manufacturing line just beyond a single door, neither smell nor sound penetrated.

The Four “Ps” That Define John Lobb

“The production lines within this building are divided into three levels. With the recent expansion, the role of each level has become clearer,” says Hernández. “We currently have 120 employees in this building, 93 of whom are craftsmen. Just as an art piece requires the finest environment for its creation, we needed a good environment to produce exceptionally beautiful, unconventional shoes. This is our quiet and clean factory.”

When asked why there are so many shoe factories in Northampton, he explained, “Originally, there was a cattle market in this area, and the clean running water from the River Nene was available for leather processing. In the past, as there were no means of transportation, shoemaking began as a local industry.”

John Lobb is often perceived as the quintessential British shoe brand, but “John Lobb crafts its shoes with an emphasis on four ‘Ps’: PLACE, PEOPLE, PROCESS, and PERSONALITY,” says Hernández. Its presence and individuality are always international.

“For example, it’s difficult to state the exact period it takes for a shoemaker to become fully proficient. While one can achieve a good level of shoe polishing in two to three months, it took me a year to be able to sew a stitch with a machine. However, pride in working at John Lobb is essential. We always hold the belief that ‘this pair of shoes might be a dream pair for its owner.’ And fulfilling that dream is our aspiration.”

Hernández continues, “I often tell our staff that liking what you do is crucial for making good shoes. Since we spend eight or nine hours a day making shoes, it’s important to dedicate love and passion to them.”

Andrés Hernández Speaks Extensively (Part 2)to be continued

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp