FASHION /
MEN
January 21, 2015
BOGLIOLI | The Secret to a Jacket Beyond the Ultimate
BOGLIOLI
From the classic "Dover" to Edifice's exclusive "Calais"
BOGLIOLI: The Secret to Jackets Beyond the Ultimate (1)
With over 120 years of history, Boglioli stands as a living testament to Italian tailoring. The brand's jackets, crafted with exceptional skill, are supported worldwide. This article delves into the essence of Boglioli jackets through an exploration of its signature model, "Dover," the new "Eton" and "York" models launching this fall, and "Calais," an exclusive from the select shop Edifice, along with styling tips.
Photographs by JAMANDFIX (Still)Styling by TOCHIGI MasahiroText by TAKEGAWA Kei
DOVER
A Revolutionary Piece That Changed the Concept of Tailoring
The "Dover" is the landmark piece that propelled Boglioli into the mainstream of men's fashion. Its unstructured, unlined "lined" construction tapped into a latent demand for lightweight comfort and a smart appearance. The "Dover" later spawned derivative models like "K-Jacket" and "Soho," satisfying even the most discerning gentlemen. It truly changed the concept of tailoring.
YORK
Reconstructing "Structured Style"
Named after an ancient British city, "York" attempts a modern interpretation of the classic value of "structure." By using thin, supple wool interlining and a tighter fit in the length and body compared to "Dover," it achieves a youthful impression. This endeavor has been highly successful. The frequent use of traditional British checks, such as tartan and Prince of Wales, is also a key feature.
ETON
A New Frontier in Garment Dyeing
"Eton," named after a prestigious British school, showcases a new approach to garment dyeing with a technique called double wash. This process, using yellow dye and multiple washes, not only results in a soft finish but also creates a tone reminiscent of sepia. While maintaining Boglioli's signature modern silhouette, it offers a more sophisticated texture and color.
COAT & SWEATER
Excellent Newcomers, Unwavering Core
In 2008, Boglioli expanded its collection of outerwear, knitwear, and shirts to sharpen the brand's identity. A quarter-century after stepping into the spotlight, the carefully developed collection is impeccable, clearly defining the image of the man who wears Boglioli. From factory brand to maison brand.—We savor the good fortune of witnessing this transitional period as we slip them on.
→ See more about "Coat & Sweater"!
Coronet
Tel. 03-5216-6521
http://www.coronet.co.jp
Boglioli Isetan Shinjuku Store Tel. 03-3225-3041
Boglioli Ginza Mitsukoshi Store Tel. 03-3562-1200
Boglioli Hankyu Men's Osaka Tel. 06-6361-1381 (Main)
Boglioli Daimaru Osaka Shinsaibashi Store Tel. 06-6244-1556
BOGLIOLI
From the classic "Dover" to Edifice's exclusive "Calais"
BOGLIOLI: The Secret to Jackets Beyond the Ultimate (2)
Photographs by JAMANDFIX (Still)Styling by TOCHIGI MasahiroText by TAKEGAWA Kei
The Full Story of the Bespoke "Calais" Model
"Calais" is a model exclusively available at Edifice.
While it's not uncommon for shops to request minor changes to models these days, it's a different story with Boglioli. The brand has absolute confidence in its collections, which are indeed loved by stylish individuals worldwide.
This is the first time in history that Boglioli has accommodated an offer from a store in the Far East, and it may well be the last. Boglioli generally dislikes bespoke business. This stems from their confidence in producing flawless garments, and consequently, their partners have never proposed minor modifications. Therefore, the news of the exclusive "Calais" model emerging from the Japanese select shop Edifice must have caused considerable consternation among industry peers, even if they maintained a calm facade.
Edifice began handling Boglioli five years before the release of "Dover," a model that cemented the brand's status, and has regularly held pop-up shops to convey its world.
While Edifice's discerning taste and grassroots approach have undoubtedly paid off, just as one cannot win a woman's heart without a natural connection, Boglioli was drawn to the aura emanating from the Edifice shop.
Edifice Buyer
Katsuhiko Atago
Buyer Katsuhiko Atago says, "The 'Calais' was born when CEO Roberto Faki (then) visited Tokyo for market research. It was around the time our Shibuya store had just reopened, and he praised it, saying, 'I've never seen a shop that so brilliantly fuses classic, mode, and street.' We spontaneously decided to create a jacket that would match that worldview. Boglioli was originally hesitant about bespoke orders, and it was also a time when they were trying to move away from being just a factory brand, so I hear there was considerable internal opposition. Without Roberto's endorsement, 'Calais' would not have been realized."
Styling the Three Classic Types
To further enhance the appeal of Edifice's signature "Calais" model, the carefully selected fabrics can be broadly categorized as follows: From the bottom of the photo, left to right: color nep, solid nep, and basket weave.
For those attuned to trends, it goes without saying that these are essential fabrics for discussing this autumn's trends.
Through these three jackets, we will demonstrate the potential of "Calais" to create a chic impression suitable for both on and off-duty occasions.
→ See more styling ideas for "Calais"!
Le Dôme Edifice Marunouchi
Tel. 03-6212-2460
http://edifice.baycrews.co.jp
BOGLIOLI
From the classic "Dover" to Edifice's exclusive "Calais"
BOGLIOLI: The Secret to Jackets Beyond the Ultimate (3)
Photographs by JAMANDFIX (Still)Styling by TOCHIGI MasahiroText by TAKEGAWA Kei
The Dawn of Boglioli's Second Act
To put it bluntly, Boglioli has embodied modern classicism, a phrase often touted in men's fashion, at the highest level.
Considering its market success, this is a perfectly valid assessment, and those who already own Boglioli pieces might wonder, "What's new?" Boglioli's history, spanning over a century, runs parallel to the modernization of the textile industry. Starting as a trusted tailor for local gentlemen, the company navigated the changing tides of the times, embracing factory modernization and moving away from subcontracting.
While the founder's artisanal skill was undoubtedly a priority and formed the foundation for Boglioli's future, it was the third generation, Mario Boglioli, who was instrumental in establishing its current position.
When Mario joined the family business in 1972, Boglioli's financial situation was far from robust. Although Mario aimed to create his own brand, he suppressed any speculative impulses and focused on restructuring the company.
Fortunately, the business emerged from its precarious state, and he was able to embark on original product development. This is where the real story unfolds. The period of trial and error behind the scenes spanned over a decade, reportedly resulting in thousands of prototypes.
Italy boasts many excellent factory brands, but their journey to market often lacks a compelling narrative. While their inherent potential allows for reasonable success, flaws can still be apparent. This highlights Mario's meticulous approach.
Thus, the "senza・spallina" (unconstructed) and "tinto・in・capo" (garment-dyed) techniques were perfected.
Reflecting on the inspiration behind these techniques, Mario recalls, "Back then, many young men wore hand-me-down jackets, and their soft, worn-in texture was incredibly appealing." It goes without saying that these techniques have now become mainstream in men's fashion.
With these trump cards in hand, Boglioli captured the hearts of men with the "Coat" (released in 1999), which applied these techniques to cotton fabric, and the "K-Jacket" (released in 2003), which dared to wash cashmere – a near taboo at the time. Then, in 2008, the birth of the timeless masterpiece "Dover" brought the audience's excitement for the "Boglioli story" to its peak.
While many followers emerged, discerning buyers note, "The process is overwhelmingly labor-intensive and leaves no room for competition." Indeed, artisanal craftsmanship is the legacy inherited from the founder.
With "Dover" as its core, Boglioli has completely enveloped men's fashion. This fall, the brand is poised to introduce "Eton" and "York" as its second and third pillars.
This truly marks the beginning of the second act, perfectly described as "poised and ready."
Coronet
Tel. 03-5216-6521
http://www.coronet.co.jp
Le Dôme Edifice Marunouchi
Tel. 03-6212-2460
http://edifice.baycrews.co.jp