The Balance Between Novelty and Relatability in Sneaker Design

POGGYFirst off, what made you want to become a sneaker designer?

Salehe Bembury (hereinafter, Salehe)For me, sneakers are deeply tied to nostalgic feelings, a mix of hip-hop culture, basketball, and memories with my father. So, sneakers have something that stirs emotions, and for me, they are something I can dedicate my life to. Wanting to create and share such sneakers myself was the original reason I became a designer.

POGGYWho are your favorite sneaker designers?

SaleheProbably Tinker Hatfield, the designer at Nike, who created the blueprint for current sneaker design. He's an innovator in the sneaker industry who has achieved various things by having a different perspective from other designers. For example, the "Jordan 11" he designed was the first model to incorporate patent leather, which was previously only used in dress shoes, into a sneaker. It was a completely different design from conventional sneakers, and it's now one of the most famous models in the "Jordan" series.

POGGYBesides Tinker Hatfield, are there any other designers you admire?

SaleheStrictly speaking, not a sneaker designer, but Yohji Yamamoto is one of my favorite designers. What's important in sneaker design is balance. While there needs to be a novelty that surprises everyone, it also needs to have a familiar look that resonates with people. Achieving both is crucial for a product's success. I think his sneakers are wonderful because they constantly push boundaries while maintaining that balance.

POGGYFrom a sneaker designer's perspective, what is your favorite sneaker model?

SaleheThe Nike "Air Shake Ndestrukt" basketball shoe, worn by Dennis Rodman. This model has an asymmetrical design for the lacing system, which is usually in the center of sneakers, and a very aggressive outsole design. When I was studying product design, I also studied innovation in sneaker design, and this model was truly made with a completely different way of thinking. While it's important for sneakers to sell as products, they also need to create novelty. The "Air Shake Ndestrukt" is a model that makes you think about these things.

POGGYYou worked at Nike as a designer, what did you do there?

SaleheI worked as a designer for Cole Haan, which is under the Nike umbrella. In the technology department in Beaverton, near Nike's headquarters in Portland, I was able to learn about Nike's technologies like "Air" and "Lunarlon." Nike has a strict aesthetic, excelling in design beauty. At the same time, they have established technologies and have produced many excellent sneakers whose value everyone can understand. Working as a designer for Cole Haan, under Nike, was a very good experience for me.

POGGYSpecifically, what kind of products did you work on at Cole Haan?

SaleheShortly after joining Cole Haan, I worked on the "Lunargrand." The Lunargrand was a highly innovative shoe that fused technology and tradition, using Nike's Lunarlon for the outsole on a traditional wingtip.

POGGYYou designed the Lunargrand?! I didn't know that.

SaleheThat's right. Until then, dress shoes were hard, uncomfortable, and slippery. By fusing different values, we were able to solve the problems functionally, creating a wonderful product while maintaining the dignity of a dress shoe. In fact, the Lunargrand had a significant impact on the industry, and since then, various brands have released similar hybrid products. Working on that project taught me how important functionality is.

POGGYAfter that, you moved to LA and were involved in the design of "YEEZY" under Kanye West. How did you come to participate?

SaleheMy boss at Cole Haan was a master of sneaker design who had worked at Nike for 15 years. One day, without telling me the purpose, he told me to come up with various design ideas. I later learned that it was for Kanye West's brand, and it seems Kanye really liked the design proposals I submitted. Four months later, I received an offer to be the men's footwear designer for "YEEZY," and that's how I joined. At the same time, Lucette Holland from Celine joined as the women's designer, and we started as a very small design team.

POGGYWhat specifically did you do at "YEEZY"?

SaleheMy main role at "YEEZY" was to act as Kanye's pencil, bringing his ideas to life. Beyond design, I also had to understand the market and spend time with important people. And above all, maintaining secrecy was crucial. I was asked to fulfill various roles, but I see it as a good step towards entering the world of high fashion.

POGGYWhat are your memorable experiences working at "YEEZY"?

SaleheWorking with Kanye West was the most enjoyable part, and it was an incredibly surreal experience. I was already a fan of his music, but working with him made me a fan of his worldview and designs too. Also, the "YEEZY" Season 3 show at Madison Square Garden in New York was a major milestone for me.

POGGYI was there too, it was an amazing show!

SaleheI think that show was a first for the fashion industry. It was like a dream to see the works I designed projected on a giant screen in the very venue where the New York Knicks usually play!

Page02.The Current Sneaker Scene, Like a Breakdance Battle

The Current Sneaker Scene, Like a Breakdance Battle

POGGYConversely, what were the challenges of working at "YEEZY"?

SaleheEverything took an incredibly long time. I spent most of my time on "YEEZY." But I considered it part of the job of fashion design. In any company, you need adaptability, right? To be a piece of the puzzle. I think I'm the chameleon type, so I was able to adapt well.

POGGYYou are currently designing sneakers for Versace. What was the process leading up to your current position?

SaleheI usually reach out to people online who have good taste or who I find interesting. That's how I started by sending a message to Versace's Design Director. I wrote something like, 'The sneaker business is worth billions of dollars. Consumers didn't used to want sneakers from luxury brands, but that's changed significantly in the last five years. Currently, high fashion brands are also playing a role in introducing high fashion to sneaker enthusiasts by releasing collaborations with sneaker brands like Nike and Adidas. If a brand with a rich DNA and tradition like Versace did the same, even more amazing things would happen. It would be a shame to miss such a great opportunity.' I didn't really expect a reply, but I got one three days later. They seemed to like my idea and told me to come to Milan immediately for a meeting with Donatella Versace.

POGGYWhat kind of preparation did you do for the meeting with Donatella Versace?

SaleheWhen I consulted with friends, they gave me various advice, like 'You should make sample designs and bring them,' or 'You should research the market by visiting stores to see which sneakers are selling.' What was initially planned as a two-page presentation eventually became an extensive 40-page document. I flew to Milan with that and presented it to Donatella Versace. She had a very positive reaction, and after meeting with several staff members, I was hired shortly thereafter. It was an unbelievable turn of events. That was about a year and a few months ago.

POGGYSo, you're currently splitting your time between Italy and the US?

SaleheI'm based in LA, but I go to Milan once a month and stay for about a week. LA is a place that really sparks inspiration, and I feel very fortunate to be entrusted with this work as a solo team in such an environment.

POGGYTraveling for work between places like LA, Milan, and Tokyo, how do you perceive the differences in fashion across these cities?

SaleheI feel different tastes and sensibilities in each country and city. Tokyo has its own style, and Milan has its own. I especially feel that people in Tokyo truly understand their body types and suitable colors, and they know very well what to wear. People in LA or NY seem to wear certain brands not because they suit them, but because they are recognized by society. Since LA is a car-centric society, you don't meet many people on the street, and people tend to dress casually. In contrast, in Tokyo, you meet many people, not just acquaintances, which I think makes you want to dress up.

POGGYFrom your position as Versace's sneaker designer, in what direction do you see luxury streetwear sneakers heading in the future?

SaleheI think both consumers and brands have a much broader perspective now. From the consumer's point of view, for example, I grew up wearing Nike all the time and occasionally wore Adidas sneakers. But now, more consumers don't care about the brand as long as the sneaker itself looks cool. From the brand's perspective, there was a time when designs were very conventional, and it was difficult to do anything too radical. Now, not just in high fashion, but all sneaker designs are like a breakdance battle. For instance, after I designed Versace's "Chain Reaction," Louis Vuitton comes back with another radical sneaker design. In this way, everyone is challenging their limits, and the sneaker scene itself is in a very exciting state. As I mentioned before, a certain brand copied my design idea (laughs).

POGGY(Laughs)

SaleheBut I think that's proof that the brand is making an effort to create sneakers that consumers will pick up. It's wonderful that both customers and brands have more opportunities to take on challenges. As a sneaker enthusiast myself, I'm happy to encounter completely different types of sneakers and to see great sneakers emerge from unexpected brands. Even if a very strange-shaped sneaker comes out that seems absurd, it becomes a topic of conversation. I think that's important too.

POGGYFinally, could you tell us about your design philosophy?

SaleheIn the past, it was believed that there were rules in the world of fashion and sneakers that absolutely had to be followed. For example, boots are for fall and winter. But when we released boots in early summer at "YEEZY," they sold incredibly well. It made me realize that there are no rules. Of course, the fact that it was Kanye's brand contributed to the sales, but it definitely served as a catalyst for breaking rules. Analyzing consumer trends to create products is something everyone does, but it's not very meaningful. If we believe we are creating excellent things and make cool products, it leads to success. Therefore, I always strive to translate my feelings directly into sincere designs.