Integrating Luxury into Urban Fashion

POGGYThank you for making time today. I remember when we first met in 2014, you showed me samples of Fear of God from the trunk of your car in the parking lot of Soho House in LA.

Jerry Lorenzo (hereinafter, Jerry)Of course! I remember that very well.

POGGYBack then, you told me that one of Fear of God's brand concepts was “No Fashion Show, No Exhibition, No Trade Show.” Nowadays, with the rise of events like ComplexCon, which are held at completely different times from traditional fashion seasons, and the increasing trend of presenting collections in ways that deviate from the established fashion industry practices, why did you decide on that concept at that time?

JerryAt that time, I always felt unwelcome by the fashion and luxury industries, and that was a constant frustration. But I also didn't want to do anything just to be accepted by them. So, I came up with the concept of delivering the collection without going through traditional fashion shows or trade shows, in order to spread the brand to people who would listen to my voice and to my customers.

POGGYSo, the concept naturally emerged?

JerryYes. It wasn't a strategic decision; it was an idea that arose organically.

POGGYWhen Fear of God started to gain traction, the trend in the street scene was to incorporate dark, mode-inspired clothing from brands like GIVENCHY and Rick Owens. Against that backdrop, Fear of God's fresh interpretation of American authentic wear was truly novel.

JerryI'm glad you feel that way.

POGGYWhy did you choose that design approach?

JerryActually, Rick Owens, whom you just mentioned, had a significant influence. What I love most about Rick's designs is the overall silhouette and balance that evokes hip-hop. For example, baggy shorts reminiscent of Allen Iverson, long tank tops, and draped coats with long drawstrings. He made it possible to integrate luxury into urban fashion through his own unique lens. The idea that everyday items like sweatpants could become luxurious was incredibly exciting to me. To create luxury, one must meticulously calculate the silhouette and balance, and even consider the manufacturing methods. It's similar to the grunge style Hedi Slimane presented in his SAINT LAURENT collections; through the right lens, various things can be presented as luxury. Fear of God is essentially my interpretation of American elements like hip-hop, rock and roll, and grunge, shaped into luxury through methods learned from designers like them.

POGGYFear of God's clothing is simple and basic. The way it looks changes depending on who wears it and how, infusing it with culture. One of the brand's turning points, I believe, was when Kanye West wore Fear of God in a fashion spread for 'GQ,' or when Justin Bieber wore it, which seemed to convey its appeal to a wider audience. Was that also part of your strategy?

JerryNo, that wasn't a strategic move. I believe the brand's value is determined by who is behind it, not by how people like Kanye or Justin define it. Actually, I had some reservations when I styled and handled the merchandise for Justin Bieber's 'Purpose World Tour.' I respected Justin as a friend, but at the time, he didn't have much influence in fashion, and he was also an ordinary young man who sometimes made mistakes. However, he was striving to change his own image, so I thought I could help him through my talents in clothing and styling. Still, a part of me worried that I might lose something through this project, but in the end, everything worked out, and the brand continues to exist today.

Page02.Fear of God's Story, Completed by Sneakers

Fear of God's Story, Completed by Sneakers

POGGYIn several past interviews, you've mentioned being influenced by Kanye. Specifically, what did you learn from him?

JerryI worked with Kanye for three years. We saw many things from the same perspective, whether it was styling, including everyday wear, or how we should conduct ourselves. Working as part of his team was very demanding, but what I gained from those three years was his work ethic.

POGGYI believe Fear of God's style reached its full potential with the creation of its original shoes, completing the overall balance. I understand the Italian design team, Search N Design, was involved in the shoe design. Could you tell us about how you met them?

JerryJon Buscemi, a friend with whom our families are also close and who now runs the brand BUSCEMI, introduced us. As POGGY mentioned, at that time, I needed to complete the Fear of God collection according to my vision. For the third or fourth collection, I used military boots called Desert Storm for styling. I liked the color, but not the shape. I had no other choice then, so I used those boots, but I felt the need to find someone who could help me with footwear. Jon Buscemi was the only friend I had around me who was involved in shoe-related work, so I consulted him, and he introduced me to Search N Design. Meeting Search N Design completed the grand narrative of Fear of God.

POGGYBy the way, was Search N Design also involved in the design of the sneakers for the "Nike Air Fear of God" collection announced this time?

JerryNo, they were not involved in this project. Before the project with Nike, we did reference some designs I created with Search N Design, but the overall design was a collaboration between myself and Nike.

POGGYWhen discussing the current luxury streetwear scene, the involvement with major sports brands like Nike and Adidas is indispensable. While many major fashion brands are driven by risk aversion and sales-focused strategies, major sports brands are supporting young designers much like scouts discovering athletes. How do you view this trend, Jerry?

JerryThat's a very astute observation. Frankly, I'm not particularly concerned with what major fashion brands are thinking or doing right now. I believe they need to be aware of what brands like ours are doing, but my focus is on what is missing in the market and how to address it. So, I hadn't thought about it that way before, but POGGY, you've hit on something important. The sports industry has a tradition of discovering young talent, scouting promising athletes from high school or college. Because of this tradition, they are able to recognize young talent earlier than luxury brands.

POGGYFinal question. Why do you think Fear of God's authentic and luxurious American style has been so widely embraced as a trend, particularly in your hometown of LA?

JerryPeople in LA are always pursuing comfort. On the other hand, achieving both comfort and luxury in fashion is quite difficult. For instance, if you pursue comfort too much, it might just look sloppy, or conversely, it might seem like you're trying too hard. However, Fear of God's clothing is luxurious and chic, yet it also offers comfort. In that sense, Fear of God has accomplished something new, which is why I believe it has been embraced by people in LA.