VERBAL's Styling Aesthetics, Which Influenced Kanye West

POGGYI'd like to go back in time a bit. Around 2007-2008, when Virgil started handling AMBUSH® at RSVP, street brands were strictly sold in street shops, and high fashion in high fashion stores. It was a time when things were clearly divided. But then people like Kanye, Virgil, and I believe you, VERBAL, emerged as figures in the middle, and a new trend began to form. For example, in hip-hop fashion, the loose sizing of the past started to shift towards skinny pants. VERBAL, as you observed these trends, how did you feel about them?

VERBALI'm still grateful to YOON for fulfilling my desire to "be able to dress in more diverse ways" through styling. As a rapper, when I hired a stylist, they would bring me typical hip-hop brands. But I was looking for something more, a synergy that comes from combining different elements. I remember thinking, "Can't I wear RAF SIMONS?" and YOON would say, "Of course, you can." So, I started buying up pieces from Raf Simons and Dior Homme from Hedi Slimane's era and used them all for costumes.

POGGYAt that time, were there anyone around you who had a similar sensibility?

VERBALNot at all. Back then, Kanye would often ask me, "Where did you get that?" He had a series on his blog called something like "Fresh Kid," and he would meticulously upload photos of me, found somewhere online, to his blog.

POGGYAh, yes, you did appear on Kanye's blog quite often.

VERBALWhen I wore a Napoleon jacket that BURBERRY released, Kanye asked me, "Where did you buy that?" When I told him, "It's Burberry," he was wearing the same one the following week.

POGGY(Laughs)

VERBALAt that time, when something unusual came out, it was usually artists who bought it for everyday wear. One of the communities that was drawn to such things was Kanye and his circle. Virgil was close to them. Virgil also liked street and hip-hop, but he also had an eye for slightly different things, so we got along well. In that sense, in Japan, Takeshi Osumi (former SWAGGER /PHENOMENON, now designer of MR.GENTLEMAN) had a similar vibe. It wasn't about dressing the same, but about having the same sensibility for what we liked.

Page02.A Fashion Week Adventure with Kanye's Entourage ~ The Americanization of Paris Fashion Week

A Fashion Week Adventure with Kanye's Entourage ~ The Americanization of Paris Fashion Week

POGGYOne of the major topics when the luxury streetwear scene began was Kanye and his entourage starting to attend Paris Fashion Week. It wasn't common for hip-hop artists like them to go to Paris Fashion Week back then. VERBAL, how did you view that movement at the time?

VERBALActually, I had a chance to hang out with them during New York Fashion Week. I had no idea what Fashion Week was, but I happened to be in New York at the time. Kanye called me, saying, "We're going to the XX show now!" and I, not knowing anything, followed him, thinking, "Can we get in?" But we couldn't get in at all (laughs).

POGGY(Laughs)

VERBALI thought, "Even Kanye gets turned away at the door?" (laughs). Also, between shows, we'd all eat soul food. They'd go into clothing stores with their greasy hands from eating chicken and start browsing. I found it amusing every time, thinking, "Are these guys okay?" (laughs). I didn't know what would happen, but it felt like exploring a different planet. But since I didn't know anything back then, it was comfortable. Back then, when you went to places like that, there was a strong atmosphere of, "Who are these people?" and "This isn't a place for you." But telling Kanye that was like pouring fuel on the fire. He'd say, "I'm getting in no matter what. Let's go!" I'd say, "Are you sure? I don't want to be kicked out again" (laughs).

POGGYSo that's how it was. But gradually, they started to be accepted, right?

VERBALWhat I appreciate about America, in a good way, is that entertainment and fashion are ultimately all connected. The Kardashians, for example, weren't initially in the "fashion world," but they became widely recognized and generated huge buzz. Brands quickly realized that by incorporating such figures, they could achieve rapid penetration. Even before the term "influencer" existed, brands started moving, proposing collaborations and business ventures.

POGGYThat's how it connected with Kanye, too.

VERBALKanye loves fashion, so they wanted to do something together. He initially interned at Fendi, and then he created the first YEEZY with Nike. However, Louis Vuitton released a very similar design around the same time, which caused some issues. But even considering those aspects, I thought, "This person is truly out there."

POGGYRegarding Paris, even I used to think it was quite cold back then. In that kind of environment, I remember feeling that American figures were trying to carve out their own space, and Paris Fashion Week was becoming increasingly Americanized. What are your thoughts on the changes in Paris, VERBAL?

VERBALAt that time, most of the cool items sold at Colette were from Japan or America, weren't they? I think Sarah was doing this kind of cultural exchange through Colette. The French have a lot of pride, so while they might say, "We're all set," they would discreetly incorporate foreign elements. Therefore, I believe those who were already connected knew each other well.

Page03.The Future of Luxury Streetwear, Connected by Virgil Abloh

The Future of Luxury Streetwear, Connected by Virgil Abloh

POGGYHearing what you just said, I realize again that Colette was indeed an important presence.

VERBALAlso, I think the natural acceptance of American culture in Paris is partly because the younger generation grew up admiring American street fashion. As they grew into adults, the situation changed significantly. Especially Paris Fashion Week last June, it felt like the old rules were completely overturned, didn't it? I think that was truly sensational. Virgil often says, "Young people change everything," and I really believe that.

POGGYI've known Virgil for quite some time. How do you think he achieved his current position?

VERBALHe originally majored in architecture at university and started as Kanye's assistant, someone who could bring Kanye's vision to life. I think his partnership with NEW GUARDS GROUP in Italy was also brilliant. He has an incredible sense of intuition and his actions are never wasted. He absorbs everything, consistently releases what everyone wants, and everything he does resonates. He's intelligent and has guts. That's his strength.

POGGYFrom your perspective, VERBAL, how do you see the future of the luxury streetwear trend?

VERBALFundamentally, I don't think luxury became streetwear; rather, streetwear consumed luxury. When A BATHING APE® started, Jonio (Takahashi) and NIGO® collaborated to create NOWHERE, and collaboration has always been natural in streetwear. It's about pushing each other and creating synergy. Streetwear also has a sensibility of "if it looks good, it's good," incorporating anything and everything. In the past, it was streetwear, now it's luxury streetwear, and in the future, it might incorporate art. It's no longer just a word, but a culture. It has no rigid traditions, in a good way. That's why it's strong, perhaps? Maybe it will become even bigger and surpass luxury itself?

POGGYDoes that mean streetwear is becoming the standard?

VERBALFor young people today, the internet exists as naturally as breathing air. In the same way, the conversation about "What is streetwear?" is almost trivial. It's that vast and commonplace now.

POGGYFinally, within this trend, please tell us how AMBUSH® will evolve in the future.

VERBALIt's incredibly enjoyable right now to showcase the brand's worldview. We're currently working with Amazon, and they give us a lot of freedom, saying, "Do as you please," with virtually no restrictions. Such an environment where we can do as we wish is invaluable to us. In the future, coexisting with AI will become commonplace, and this time we've incorporated elements like the "echo dot." Our goal for the next few years is to open more shops in various locations, increase touchpoints with customers, and expand our world. AMBUSH® naturally began with jewelry, but now it spans a wide range, including music. Ultimately, we want to make it into a culture in itself. I hope this vague answer is okay (laughs).

POGGYNot at all (laughs). Thank you very much for sharing your valuable insights today.