Encountering a Shirt That Broke Through British Tradition

When I was the Creative Director at "BEAUTY&YOUTH," I was the one who first sourced Margaret Howell for our select shop, buying both the MHL. line and the main line when they were just starting out. We continue to have a very good relationship, even releasing custom T-shirts for MHL. to this day.

My first encounter with Margaret Howell clothing was during my time at Beams. Our generation grew up with made-in-U.S.A. items, so it was incredibly fresh. Margaret Howell is still synonymous with shirts, I think, but at the time, shirts made from dress fabrics, with a unisex appeal that felt almost feminine, were unlike anything I had ever seen. It was astonishing. They were simple, yet they felt like a subversion of traditional British style. It wasn't the punk of Vivienne Westwood, but a kind of spiritual punk that I felt from a single Margaret Howell shirt. That's what drew me in.

This is just my personal opinion, but I find a common thread between Margaret Howell and early Comme des Garçons Shirt. The materials are basic, yet classic, with a playful touch. They possess a presence that allows them to be worn alone, and they perfectly complement the wearer's character. Shirts that allow for that extra something based on how you wear them are still rare.

The Secret to Margaret Howell's Clothing Never Appearing Merely Basic

Even looking at the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, I'm struck by how it avoids appearing merely basic. As someone who designs clothes myself, I know how difficult it is to create garments that are simple yet don't look *just* simple, without adding or subtracting too much design. The collar designs on the shirts, for example, seem plausible, but they are incredibly challenging to execute. In menswear, designers might delve too deeply into details like design, material, color, or silhouette, but Margaret Howell, with her distinctly feminine sensibility, maintains a minimalist aesthetic that has remained unchanged since my Beams days.

Looking at this season's looks, I particularly like the color palette centered around gray. The overall balance and fit are excellent. The coordination of a gray jacket with navy shorts showcases a beautiful gradation of gray in the top. This kind of gray is something we Japanese cannot quite achieve. There's an elegance within the simple combination, and it evokes a sense of freedom, like something a boy attending art school might wear. It's very Howell. Also, the coordination with the John Smedley striped top, while seemingly simple at first glance, feels fresh with the top tucked in.

An Ideal Brand, Both for Creators and Wearers

In my own clothing design, I favor pieces with a traditional spirit, focusing on wearability and a playful touch without being overly eccentric. My greatest commitment is to the sewing, patternmaking, and materials – essentially, I want to create clothes that are "easy to pick up and wear every day." Margaret Howell's clothing, at first glance, might seem unchanged, but when you actually wear it, the fit is subtly adjusted to the times. Each season, through these "imperceptible adjustments that feel constant," the clothes feel fresh to wear, which I believe leads to that unchanging sense of comfort. It's an ideal brand, both from the perspective of the creator and the wearer.

I also resonate with Margaret's approach of bringing together things she holds dear, like John Smedley and Fox Brothers, and weaving them together as a collective, embodying a spirit of "acting local" in her craftsmanship.








Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp