J.M. Weston | Creative Director Michel Perry on Tradition and Innovation
FASHION / MEN
February 2, 2015

J.M. Weston | Creative Director Michel Perry on Tradition and Innovation


J.M. Weston


In Tokyo to Launch New Leather Goods "GRAND ANGLE"


Michel Perry on Tradition and Innovation (1)



“While it’s wonderful to be secluded in the Limoges workshop creating as a designer, I wanted to come out and see how my creations are received in the market,”――――says Creative Director Michel Perry, explaining the purpose of his visit to Japan. After Shanghai, he came to Tokyo, and we spoke with him at J.M. Weston Aoyama on Omotesando, Aoyama.

Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by TAKADA Mizuho





Leather Goods That Look Better With Age



Michel Perry expresses his fondness for Tokyo, calling it one of his favorite cities in the world. “Tokyo is full of energy, it’s elegant, and it has a delicate sensibility. When we think of elegance, we often imagine traditional things, but Tokyo’s elegance radiates modernity and futurism, and I feel it across everything from fashion to the arts,” he says.

――The leather goods line, "Grand Angle," has now been released.

Grand Angleis made with the same meticulous techniques and delicate craftsmanship as our shoes, while respecting the traditional manufacturing methods of a long-established shoemaker. We use the same leathers for the uppers and soles as we do for our footwear,”

――The design is very simple.

“Since this is J.M. Weston’s first foray into serious leather accessories, we wanted to release them with a simple design and gauge everyone’s reaction. That’s why we’ve included everything from attaché cases to wallets. Fortunately, the response has been very positive, and we are now conceptualizing travel bags and more.”

――Special orders are also possible?

“Yes, special orders with your preferred materials are possible. Furthermore, all items use original parts and can be repaired. Like J.M. Weston shoes, their longevity through maintenance is a key feature.”

――May we see your bag, Mr. Perry?

“The one I’m using is a prototype, and I’ve had it for about six months. As you can see, it’s a bag with a beautiful allure even without decorative elements, simply by its presence. The quality of the leather is superb, and like J.M. Weston shoes, it looks better with age than when new. I truly wish you could feel this smoothness.”



J.M. Weston | Michel Perry 02

J.M. Weston | Michel Perry 05




I Tell Stories and Embark on Journeys Through Shoes



――Now, regarding shoes, you presented the "Eton College Collection" in June 2012.

“While many J.M. Weston customers prefer traditional models,Eton College Collectionis a collection that offers a modern interpretation of traditional models, aiming for contemporary refinement. My personal inspiration came from the spirit of a bootmaker who prioritizes traditional fitting.”

――The collaboration with Maison Kitsuné also generated significant buzz.

“This is related to the Eton College Collection. We considered how to present J.M. Weston’s newness to those who value tradition. We thought that withMaison Kitsuné x Weston, we could gain acceptance for our new direction. Also, Masaya Kuroki of Maison Kitsuné is a friend, and he mentioned how great it would be if Weston could do something together, which sparked my interest as well.”

――I imagine you receive requests for "collaboration with Weston" from all over the world.

“Collaborations are strictly exceptional cases. We are not particularly aiming for marketing purposes, so communication with the collaboration partner is paramount.”



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J.M. Weston | Michel Perry 14




――What do you find enjoyable about designing shoes?

“It’s about telling stories and embarking on journeys through shoes. When designing shoes, there are so many elements to imagine: the leather, the color, the design. For example, I wonder who will wear these shoes. I fantasize about what Oscar Wilde would wear and where he would go. It allows me to go on these meandering journeys and tell stories.”







J.M. Weston


In Tokyo to Launch New Leather Goods "GRAND ANGLE"


Michel Perry on Tradition and Innovation (2)



J.M. Weston celebrated its 120th anniversary last year. One reason for its enduring success, according to Michel Perry, is: “I am confident that copying Weston shoes is absolutely impossible.”




Two Shoes Recommended by Michel Perry



――Could you tell us about two of your favorite shoes?

“Just two? (laughs) First, I’d choose the Triple Sole Derby (590). With its triple-layered sole, it has a substantial feel yet pairs well with everything from suits to skinny pants. It’s a traditional yet versatile shoe.
My second choice is the Monk Strap (487) from the Eton College Collection. It’s a dandy model, but the strap adds a distinctive accent, making it an ideal pair for travel.”

――We once heard from Daisuke Nakajo, General Manager and Buyer of Men's Business at Tomorrowland, about his moving experience visiting the Limoges workshop.What makes it so exceptional?

“It’s extraordinary that such traditional methods are still preserved today. This morning, I was discussing with Catherine, the director, that while the world is flooded with copies, it’s impossible to replicate Weston shoes. We fully understand how difficult it is to establish the entire process in the workshop as a system. We celebrated our 120th anniversary last year, and fortunately, with the new owners and management, we haven’t been told to ‘only do profitable work’ (laughs). If that had happened, Weston’s history would have ended.”



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J.M. Weston | Michel Perry 20




The Charm of J.M. Weston: Shoes That Mold to You With Wear



――The global scarcity of high-grade leather is also a significant issue in the world of footwear.

“In today’s world, taking two months to make a single pair of shoes is extraordinary. Weston produces them regardless of profitability. Our manufacturing process is completely out of sync with modern production, but upholding tradition is our creed. Regarding leather, we collaborate with FREDERIC BASTIN, a tannery with about 200 years of history in France, to produce our sole leather over 15 months. For the box calf uppers, we acquired the PUY tannery to ensure a stable supply.
Furthermore, to stabilize leather quality, we are developing a plan to purchase ranches, raise cattle, and provide our own feed.”

――That’s a wonderful vision. What challenges do you wish to take on, Mr. Perry?

“Tradition is often seen as a relic of the past, but I believe it can coexist and prosper with modernity. I am convinced that Weston can uphold its artisanal tradition while incorporating futuristic designs. I hope to live a long life (laughs) and create such things.”

――Do you have a message for your fans?

“For Weston, 'time' is a key word. J.M. Weston shoes become more comfortable and familiar with every wear. You have to break them in at first, but once you do, they will be with you for a lifetime. I hope you enjoy discovering your own wonderful pair of shoes.”

――Thank you very much.



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J.M. Weston Aoyama
5-11-5 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6805-1691
Hours | 11:00-20:00 J.M. Weston Japan
www.jmweston.com