FASHION /
MEN
September 8, 2017
Tomoki Sukezane & The Editorial Demon King Dialogue | Vol. 28 Tsuyoshi Noguchi (Part 2)
Page. 1
Continuing from last time, our guest for the "Editorial Demon King Dialogue" is stylist Tsuyoshi Noguchi. This time, the topic is the Paris Men's Collections. We'll look back at two seasons—the 2017-18 Autumn/Winter Collection held in January and the 2018 Spring/Summer Collection held in June—as we talk. Don't miss the best looks chosen by the two of them.
→Tomoki Sukezane & The Editorial Demon King Dialogue | Vol. 27 Tsuyoshi Noguchi (Part 1)
Interview by SUKEZANE TomokiPhotographs by SATO YukiText by ANDO Sara (OPENERS)
Number One in Attention! Balenciaga's Autumn/Winter Collection
Tomoki Sukezane (hereinafter, Sukezane)Shall we talk about the collections again after a while? This time, we'll go through two seasons for each brand, Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer, and pick the best looks. First up, Balenciaga. Both you and I are most interested in this brand right now. Shall we recall the Autumn/Winter Men's Collection we saw in Paris in January? Do you remember it?
Tsuyoshi Noguchi (hereinafter, Noguchi)I thought I'd forgotten it once (laughs), but after the Paris Men's show in June, I stayed in Paris to shoot Balenciaga's Autumn/Winter. The suits were particularly striking.
SukezaneThe silhouette is beautiful, isn't it? Well, the presentation on the runway was nude (laughs).
NoguchiBut actually, it was just unbuttoned; they were wearing shirts underneath.
SukezaneAh, that's right. Did you have them wear the shirts unbuttoned for the shoot too?
NoguchiYes. It looks better in photos that way, doesn't it? With the ties dangling too.
SukezaneThe sneakers are stylish again.
NoguchiYes. They have three layers, but they're surprisingly light when you wear them.
SukezaneI see.
NoguchiAlso, the mouton and leather pieces were good. However, they're extremely tight, so you have to be quite thin to wear them. They're tough for us (laughs).
SukezaneI thought the same when I tried them on. Even the down jacket was a tight fit.
NoguchiBut they'll probably sell well. They're easy to incorporate into a sporty style.
BALENCIAGA 2017-18AW
SukezaneThey look easy to wear, don't they? Were there any pieces you actually wanted to try wearing?
NoguchiThe padded flannel shirt was nice.
SukezaneIt might be good for a casual look.
NoguchiIt does add some volume, though. And the suits were good too. The wide chinos with a three-dimensional feel were also cute. I thought, 'They've really put a lot of work into this.'
SukezaneWhat do you think of Balenciaga?
NoguchiI think they're doing interesting things.
SukezaneThey give the impression of pursuing unique approaches, don't they?
NoguchiIt's in tune with the times. They must be good at business too.
SukezaneWith the bags and sneakers, the overall worldview they present is also good. This is our best look choice.
Page02.Balenciaga Spring/Summer: Full of 90s-inspired Sportswear
Page. 2
Balenciaga Spring/Summer: Full of 90s-inspired Sportswear
SukezaneNow, changing seasons, here's the Spring/Summer collection announced in June. We arrived at our seats in Boulogne Forest in a flurry, drenched in sweat. What did you think, Noguchi-san? Unlike Autumn/Winter, casual wear came to the forefront.
NoguchiYes. Perhaps because it's Spring/Summer, but sportswear stood out particularly. It reminded me of the 90s.
SukezaneNostalgic, isn't it? It brings back memories of that time.
NoguchiBut it was skillfully incorporated. My assistant, who's in his early twenties, wears things like this from vintage stores.
SukezaneIt must seem fresh to the younger generation.
NoguchiThe tailored series at the beginning is quite challenging, though...
SukezaneIndeed. I wonder how one should wear them.
NoguchiSpeaking of which, aren't these models a real family?
SukezaneYes, yes. Oh, do you remember this kid? He appeared exclusively in Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme.
NoguchiReally? Was he?
SukezaneChristopher. I shot him. He already has three children.
From "Sotokoto" September 2004 Issue No. 63 ©Kirakusha
NoguchiAmazing, isn't it? The direction was cute.
SukezaneI wanted to see the mother too.
NoguchiShe must be beautiful. And the pants. What do you think of this three-way series?
SukezaneThe idea is interesting, but this is also quite challenging.
NoguchiYou have to buy three pairs. And if you're coordinating a full outfit, it seems difficult to pull off.
SukezaneIt reminds me of when I was about 16 or 17, spending an hour in front of my closet trying to mix and match things. Also, these leather pants with a big jacket—that's a pattern I've seen somewhere before, right? There was a musician in the 80s...
NoguchiWho?
SukezaneI always forget... Ah, I remember, David Byrne!
NoguchiAh, indeed. David Byrne's were bigger, though.
SukezaneThe colors and everything were often seen in magazines like "Mr. High Fashion" and "Ryuko Tsushin" in the 80s.
NoguchiAnd "Glasses Men's."
SukezaneYes! It brings back those memories. How nostalgic.
NoguchiBut it must seem novel to kids in their late teens.
SukezaneThat's right. They wear things like this, mixed with vintage clothes. It looks even better on skinny people. It's an interesting phenomenon. And this is what happens when it's presented at Paris Fashion Week.
NoguchiI wonder what they'll do next season.
SukezanePersonally, I wish they'd lean a bit more towards dresses.
NoguchiWith everything being so sporty, you start to want a change.
SukezaneI post the runway looks on Instagram, and the sporty ones don't get many likes. The more dress-like ones get a reaction, which is strange.
NoguchiI see.
SukezaneThis season's Balenciaga focused on street style and sportswear, but I actually want this very straightforward piece.
NoguchiThe jersey. The combination of vinyl and sporty elements is nice.
Page03.Takahiro Miyashita and TheSoloist: Continuously Evolving
Page. 3
Takahiro Miyashita and TheSoloist: Continuously Evolving
SukezaneSo, although there wasn't a runway show, let's talk about Takahiro Miyashita's TheSoloist. I couldn't make it to the showroom for Autumn/Winter. How was it?
NoguchiIt was a collection that was very Miyashita-esque.
SukezaneWas there anything new or different about it?
NoguchiHmm, fundamentally, his preferences haven't changed.
SukezaneThat's true.
NoguchiTechnically, I think it's evolved significantly from before. Because it's slim, it's tough for us again (laughs), but slender young people could wear it.
SukezaneWhat about these pants? Are they layered?
NoguchiThey're layered with high socks.
SukezaneThe style of covering the face, like a mask, has appeared frequently before.
NoguchiIt comes up periodically, doesn't it? Like when Afghan scarves were in fashion.
SukezaneIt did. If you went to the airport like this...
NoguchiYou'd be denied entry (laughs). But you can tell it's Miyashita at a glance, can't you?
SukezaneIndeed. The shoes are cute too. Now, for TheSoloist's Spring/Summer, it's Kurt Cobain.
NoguchiKurt Cobain has returned as an adult. Even with the same theme, it's different from what he did before, isn't it? It's become more mature.
SukezaneSpring/Summer felt a bit like Number (N)ine, but is that not the case? TheSoloist usually brings to mind ropes and long hanging cords, but this season seems easier to wear.
NoguchiPerhaps. When the theme is music, it might be relatively like that.
SukezaneMany people around me wear TheSoloist. It suits them all. When I ask, 'Nice, where's that from?', it's often a piece from TheSoloist, which is interesting. Even people who aren't particularly avant-garde wear it.
NoguchiThere are a lot of them, aren't there?
SukezaneLike male editors. It looks completely different from the runway, but it's interesting.
NoguchiThe pants for Spring/Summer were also good. The wide ones and the bootcut ones were surprisingly elegant.
SukezaneBootcut is nice. And the length is short.
NoguchiAlso, the embroidered series was good. I prefer the jackets over the shirts.
SukezaneThe embroidery is cute, isn't it?
NoguchiThese T-shirts are well-made too. When you snap them shut, they form a mask.
SukezaneThat was interesting.
Page04.Dries Van Noten: Standing Apart, and Valentino: Elegant and Beautiful
Page. 4
Dries Van Noten: Standing Apart, and Valentino: Elegant and Beautiful
NoguchiWait! Isn't your jacket torn?
SukezaneNo, that's the lining. It's supposed to be like that.
NoguchiOh, you startled me. What if it was a sewing mistake? (laughs).
SukezaneNo, no, it's open (laughs)! Anyway, let's get back on track. What did you think of Dries Van Noten's Autumn/Winter collection?
DRIES VAN NOTEN 2017-18AW
NoguchiI liked the red check series. Even within the outdoor theme, there were quilted sweatshirts and T-shirts. And the coat with a vinyl exterior and faux fur interior, remember that? It looked like a soccer stadium coat. I thought the proposal was different from other brands, which was good.
SukezaneIt's elegant, isn't it?
NoguchiYes. And the double-breasted jackets were cool too.
SukezaneThe balance with the pants is good.
NoguchiAs expected from Dries.
SukezaneNext, Dries Van Noten's Spring/Summer collection, which was so hot I could barely breathe.
NoguchiIt was so hot I'll never forget it (laughs).
SukezaneIt was kind of them to prepare water for us. The collection was flooded with bright colors.
DRIES VAN NOTEN 2018SS
NoguchiI was struck by how it blended in with the bookshelves in the venue. I thought the color combinations were difficult.
SukezaneThey might be a bit difficult for us with black hair.
NoguchiThe colors and patterns. It requires quite some skill for Asians to pull off.
SukezaneMaybe I need to go completely bald (laughs). I only ordered these pants from the showroom.
NoguchiThey're short!
SukezaneThey're swim trunks. I wanted swim trunks.
NoguchiInspired by the hot Paris weather, were you? (laughs). Personally, I preferred the Autumn/Winter collection for Dries.
SukezaneSo, Valentino, what do you think? After Maria Grazia Chiuri left, Pierpaolo Piccioli is working hard.
NoguchiI quite liked the Autumn/Winter collection.
SukezaneThe silhouette of the pants is beautiful, isn't it? Both the wide and slim ones are skillfully done. I have some I like too.
NoguchiDid you buy them already?
SukezaneNot yet, but I want them.
NoguchiThe graphics were also very good.
SukezaneThey collaborated with Jamie Reid, the graphic designer famous for the Sex Pistols' artwork, right?
NoguchiYes, yes.
SukezaneSo these are real slogans.
NoguchiThis is patchwork, isn't it? Luxurious patchwork. It's couture.
SukezaneI want it.
NoguchiIt's sewn onto the lining of this trench coat too.
SukezaneIt's nice.
NoguchiAnd the knits are cute too.
SukezaneThere were many hat stylings.
NoguchiEveryone was wearing them.
SukezaneBut maybe it's okay for the runway show. Now, for the Spring/Summer collection. A multinational mix of sporty styles.
NoguchiIt was full of sports! But Valentino's sports are elegant, aren't they?
SukezaneYes. Because the clothes are beautiful, they don't look sloppy. Were there any pieces you wanted to wear?
NoguchiI'd like to try wearing the pants, these chino-style ones.
SukezaneThey're wide and short. The silhouette is beautiful.
NoguchiYes.
VALENTINO 2018SS
Page05.Junya: Actively Collaborating, and Yohji Yamamoto: Once Again in the Spotlight
Page. 5
Junya: Actively Collaborating, and Yohji Yamamoto: Once Again in the Spotlight
SukezaneNext, Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe MAN. They've perfectly established their brand collaborations.
COMME DES GARÇONS JUNYA WATANABE MAN 2017-18AW
NoguchiSpeaking of Junya, it's collaborations.
SukezaneAren't there people who wear them like collectors?
NoguchiDo you see them?
SukezaneI see them at show venues.
NoguchiThey might be easy to buy. They seem easy to combine with what you already own.
SukezaneLike you can add to it like LEGO bricks? Even if there isn't a drastic change each season, there are loyal fans. I feel like there are more and more brands like that.
NoguchiOverseas, there are pre-collections, right? Commercial pieces, so to speak. If they have those, I'd like to see something a bit different at the main show.
THOM BROWNE 2018SS
SukezaneThat's Thom Browne's approach.
NoguchiIn Spring/Summer, they ended with a wedding dress combined with a tuxedo (laughs). The show's direction is as interesting as ever.
SukezaneThey're putting on a fashion show. The ideas are outlandish, but the jackets they're dressing people in are normal.
NoguchiAs usual, the standard pieces.
SukezaneHmm, but that's true. When asked, 'What did you think of this collection?', if it's the same as usual with no changes, there's not much we can comment on. Perhaps 'as usual' is what's expected.
NoguchiA sense of security.
SukezaneSo, in that sense, Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe MAN's Spring/Summer felt a bit different. When I posted the fourth look (far left in the photo below) on Instagram, it got a lot of likes. The models' presence matches it well.
NoguchiIt's like a Japanese specialty, isn't it?
SukezaneArranging existing products.
COMME DES GARÇONS JUNYA WATANABE MAN 2018SS
NoguchiTaking authentic items. Like Tenderloin, it's the same.
SukezaneAnd Engineered Garments. An American feel.
NoguchiSo, seeing things like this is reassuring. It's comforting.
SukezaneActually, these kinds of things are being accepted overseas. It's similar to RRL from Ralph Lauren, perhaps?
NoguchiYes. Vetements also made long skirts from Carhartt, and extremely wide work pants. Vetements and Junya Watanabe are good at manipulating these kinds of things. So is Jun Takahashi. Like changing the balance of Levi's denim.
SukezaneIndeed. So, Yohji Yamamoto's Autumn/Winter. Its popularity is reviving.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO 2017-18AW
NoguchiThey're doing it!
SukezaneTimes change.
NoguchiThey come full circle.
SukezaneWhat do you think is the reason for its renewed popularity?
NoguchiIt was always slim silhouettes, wasn't it? So, the proposal of oversized coats with wide pants and sneakers must be fresh for younger people.
SukezaneMany models in "Men's Non-no" are like that.
NoguchiIt's not jackets, but pants and coats. There's a huge shift away from jackets.
SukezaneIndeed, people aren't wearing jackets. If they do, it's work jackets or coats.
NoguchiEveryone likes coats, don't they?
SukezaneThey must be convenient. What's the role of a jacket? Can you get by with just a T-shirt and a coat?
NoguchiOr a large white shirt.
SukezaneIn Yamamoto's case, his worldview is presented as a cohesive show, without scattering. What makes it different from other brands? Is it experience?
NoguchiIt has to be. Experience.
SukezaneBut it's been like this for a long time, hasn't it? There's no change.
NoguchiRecently, I shot some archives from Yohji's past. Even looking at photos from the 80s to now, in a good way, they haven't changed—the overall form. They don't look old, nor do they seem to have changed. In a good way, it's always been one tone.
SukezaneThat's interesting.
NoguchiEven when we have models try on old samples, it looks like a proposal for this season. It's uncanny.
SukezaneIt's amazing that it hasn't changed.
NoguchiIt is amazing. The era has come again! It's back.
SukezaneThe strength of not changing. It's a common slogan, but it truly hasn't changed.
NoguchiIt's wonderful.
SukezaneThe strength of unchanging fashion. What about Spring/Summer? There were beautiful women depicted on the backs of rider's jackets, etc.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO 2018SS
NoguchiI wonder who that was.
SukezaneThey said it was inspired by Taisho-era modern girls. A bit nostalgic. And then there were poetic words printed on them.
NoguchiYohji likes that sort of thing, doesn't he?
SukezaneMaybe it seems interesting to foreigners. This style has been around for a long time. This one looks just like Yohji himself.
NoguchiHe really hasn't changed. The people working for Yohji are also unwavering.
SukezaneAlways.
NoguchiThey're the same.
Page06.Comme des Garçons: Uncompromising Creation, and Louis Vuitton: The Talk of the Town
Page. 6
Comme des Garçons: Uncompromising Creation, and Louis Vuitton: The Talk of the Town
SukezaneStrange, isn't it? So, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. For Autumn/Winter, everyone looked like Brian Jones.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS 2017-18AW
NoguchiThe models' hair. They were all wearing wigs in almost the same style. Julian [Day] did it, right? This is really something.
SukezaneIt's interesting.
NoguchiI'd like to ask Rei Kawakubo. In the past, there was the equation: Garçons = not showing skin. For both men's and women's. It's changed a lot in the last few years.
SukezaneThey're showing their stomachs now.
NoguchiEven showing skin was NG during shoots back then.
SukezaneThey have tattoos too. Garçons is changing. It's the opposite of Yohji Yamamoto.
NoguchiYes. Look at the body type of the model in the first look; the way it's not tight.
SukezaneThere must be a message in having someone whose stomach isn't toned wear such clothes.
NoguchiHmm. Personally, I preferred the previous Spring/Summer collection!
SukezaneIt was an exciting collection during those hot consecutive days.
NoguchiIt made my fatigue disappear.
SukezaneIt was interesting. What was it? This sense of breaking boundaries.
NoguchiWhile all the brands were going full-on sporty, they came out with this. It was the best.
SukezaneIt was interesting. Like the previous season, they wore wigs, but...
NoguchiBut there were dreadlocks and things.
SukezaneThere's variety. Do you have a favorite look?
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS 2018SS
NoguchiI like the first look. The flashy pants were good. The flashy, leopard-print types.
SukezaneThe flashy pants were good.
NoguchiThe illustrations with scary faces were also impressive. At the end, dolls even appeared. It's really something. The sneakers were cute too.
SukezaneIt didn't feel sporty at all. Speaking of sports, there was Louis Vuitton recently. Still continuing with sports. It stood out.
NoguchiMore sports than street style. I was interested in the sneakers and hoodies.
LOUIS VUITTON 2018SS
SukezaneAs expected from Kim Jones, he's a real street person. The Supreme collaboration for Autumn/Winter was a hot topic, but the clothes in that collection were just great.
LOUIS VUITTON 2017-18AW
NoguchiYes. Maybe they hired some excellent assistants? (laughs).
SukezaneFirst, there's the luxury brand Louis Vuitton, and then Supreme is used as an accessory, which is really nice.
NoguchiEveryone tends to focus on Supreme, but...
SukezaneActually, the clothes were good. That's why Supreme looked even better. Kim himself must have felt pressure incorporating and proposing Supreme.
NoguchiIt felt like they put a lot of effort into the clothes. You could tell.
Page07.The Best Looks of Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer Chosen by the Two
Page. 7
The Best Looks of Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer Chosen by the Two
SukezaneFinally, please choose your top 5, Noguchi-san.
NoguchiHmm. Is it okay to choose the top 6? I couldn't narrow it down. For Autumn/Winter, it's like this.
Tsuyoshi Noguchi 2017AW BEST6
BALENCIAGA
BALENCIAGA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
DRIES VAN NOTEN
VALENTINO
LOUIS VUITTON
SukezaneThese are my top 6 for Autumn/Winter.
Tomoki Sukezane & The Editorial Demon King 2017AW BEST6
BALENCIAGA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
VALENTINO
VALENTINO
LOUIS VUITTON
BERLUTI
NoguchiFor Spring/Summer, it's like this.
Tsuyoshi Noguchi 2018SS BEST6
BALENCIAGA
BALENCIAGA
LOUIS VUITTON
TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
SukezaneThis is mine.
Tomoki Sukezane & The Editorial Demon King 2018SS BEST6
BALENCIAGA
BALENCIAGA
LOUIS VUITTON
TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
THOM BROWNE
NoguchiSome looks overlap, but when you line them up like this, it's interesting.
SukezaneIt shows their individuality. Thank you for your valuable insights again this time. We look forward to your next participation.
NoguchiThank you.