A New Endeavor to Create the Classics of Tomorrow

In Western societies, a spirit of "Noblesse Oblige"—the idea that nobility comes with corresponding responsibility—is deeply ingrained. Though French in origin, the phrase was popularized by the 19th-century actress and writer Fanny Kemble.

The "New Classic" line, recently released by JOHN LOBB, embodies this very conscientious spirit rooted in Western culture.

"This New Classic line was born from JOHN LOBB's pursuit of 'sustainable development' as a company. While we've previously focused on sustainability through initiatives like energy conservation in our factories, this collection marks the first time we've integrated it directly into our products,"

Exquisite Shoemaking That Maximizes Material Use

explains Tomooki Matsuda, President of JOHN LOBB Japan.

With rapid societal development, the world now faces pressing issues such as global warming, environmental degradation, and resource depletion. Companies are increasingly expected to demonstrate a higher level of CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility). The New Classic line represents one such answer from the corporate world to these challenges.

"Previously, JOHN LOBB offered two lines: Prestige and Classic. The Prestige line, our highest tier, typically uses five to six patterns per shoe. However, because each pattern is quite large, a significant amount of leather inevitably goes to waste.

This is because the larger patterns require us to select the largest possible flaw-free sections from a single hide. The leftover leather, which previously could not be used, is what the New Classic line now utilizes.

While typical high-end shoes use around 12 to 15 patterns, the New Classic line also comprises approximately 15 patterns. Because each pattern is smaller, we can cut the necessary parts from the leather remaining after the Prestige and Classic lines' patterns have been made, carefully avoiding any flaws. As a result, we have succeeded in maximizing the use of precious leather."

"Taunton" (Oxford Straight Cap Toe), ¥130,000

"Ren" (Derby Straight Cap Toe), ¥130,000

"Ember" (Double Monk Strap), ¥130,000

"Adley" (Loafer), ¥130,000

Balancing Craftsmanship and Sustainability

The impeccable finish, which belies the complexity of its construction, is a testament to advanced technical skill. As Mr. Matsuda explained, JOHN LOBB has traditionally maintained a production system where a single calfskin hide is used to create just one pair of shoes.

This contrasts with many men's shoe brands, which typically use one hide for three to four pairs, highlighting the exceptional luxury involved. Consequently, leather waste was considerable. However, this very dedication to shoemaking, unparalleled in its commitment, is what gave birth to the New Classic line.

"There are reasons why JOHN LOBB employs large patterns, as seen in the Prestige line. Larger patterns mean fewer seams, which enhances durability, reduces stress on the foot, and allows the leather's natural resilience to be better utilized. Furthermore, we exclusively use full-grain leather, with no surface finishing using pigments. While surface finishing can mask scratches and allow for more efficient leather use, it prevents the leather from breathing and diminishes its restorative properties. In essence, full-grain leather is ideal for creating shoes that last."

For the Irreplaceable Future of Our Planet

This meticulous approach, developed to create the finest men's shoes that maintain exceptional comfort and beauty for years to come, is unwavering. Yet, the brand also fulfills the social responsibilities demanded by the times. The reason for the New Classic's more accessible price point is precisely because the leather can be used without waste. This is a result of pursuing sustainability, not an indication of it being a diffusion line.

Indeed, the New Classic represents a sustainable, high-quality shoe that only JOHN LOBB, a brand that has been the aspiration of gentlemen for 150 years, could create. It is also a noble expression of pride for the next 150 years.

The "Overlapping Construction" used in all New Classic models features deliberately varied overlaps between the left and right shoe at the joining points, creating a subtle touch of flair. This design element capitalizes on the New Classic's characteristic use of numerous patterns, which naturally leads to more joining points.

"While the New Classic uses more patterns, the leather is the same full-grain as used in the Prestige and Classic lines. We use the same lasts, linings, and sole materials, and the shoes are hand-stitched by the same artisans in our Northampton workshop in England. We haven't simplified the stitching; in fact, the craftsmanship involved is arguably greater than in our existing lines, incorporating artisanal touches like the 'Overlapping Construction' that leverage the increased number of parts.

Because we use leftover leather, delivery can be irregular, but we intend to continue this line. It is a line that finds meaning in its continuity, and we are convinced it is essential for both the future of JOHN LOBB and the future of our planet."