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April 15, 2016
A glimpse into craftsmanship | Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna
Over 100 Years of Unwavering Dedication and Pride
A Glimpse into Ermenegildo Zegna's Craftsmanship (1)
After establishing an unshakeable position as a suit fabric manufacturer, Ermenegildo Zegna also achieved success in ready-to-wear, and is now supported as one of the leading menswear brands not only in Italy but globally. Its superior comfort and perfected silhouettes, crafted by skilled artisans, are praised by executives and celebrities worldwide. This article delves into its history while introducing the global store that opened in Ginza last March.
Illustrations by SORIMACHI AkiraPhotographs by jamandfixText by KURANO RohanEdit by ANDO Sara (OPENERS)
The Appeal of Ermenegildo Zegna, Unveiled Through History
In 1910, the "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (Zegna Wool Mill)" was founded in Trivero, a town in the Alps near Biella, Italy, by the first Ermenegildo Zegna. Initially starting production with just four looms, their goal was to create "the most beautiful fabrics in the world." The reason they have upheld this statement for 100 years is their consistent control over the entire production process, from raw material selection to finishing, within their own factories. In other words, it can be attributed to an unwavering commitment to quality and the adoption of scientific technology to support skilled craftsmanship.
Naturally, the raw materials are also carefully selected. Only the highest quality "superfine wool" from merino wool is used. Every year, only the finest wool is purchased at auctions in Australia. Other animal fibers such as kid mohair, cashmere, alpaca, and vicuña are also of the highest grade.
Their dedication to wool since the company's inception is evident in the many acclaimed fabrics they have produced. "High Performance" and "Traveler," fabrics made with strongly twisted worsted yarns, offer excellent wrinkle recovery. Their practicality has made them popular even in humid Japan.
Luxury fabrics such as "Trofleo," a perennial favorite known for its elegant sheen and soft touch, and "Trofleo 600," blended with silk, are also well-known. Furthermore, "TECHMERINO" used in Z Zegna is a fabric that utilizes scientific technology, processed from merino wool to offer breathability in spring and summer and warmth in autumn and winter.
The high-quality fabrics produced by "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (Zegna Wool Mill)" maintain a consistent global standard, continuing to be beloved worldwide as a fabric brand for apparel companies and an essential choice for renowned tailors.
Page 02.A Store Reflecting the Brand's Worldview, Filled with Elegance and Luxury
Ermenegildo Zegna
Over 100 Years of Unwavering Dedication and Pride
A Glimpse into Ermenegildo Zegna's Craftsmanship (2)
A Store Reflecting the Brand's Worldview, Filled with Elegance and Luxury
The Ermenegildo Zegna global store in Ginza was completed on March 2, 2015. Architect Peter Marino, who has designed numerous stores for famous maisons, including this brand, oversaw the project. The new four-story store houses the entire Ermenegildo Zegna collection. The store's design is both unique and luxurious, with the stainless steel adorning the entrance window reflecting a design that symbolizes "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (Zegna Wool Mill)," the producer of high-quality wool fabrics, incorporating the interlacing of warp and weft threads.
Inside, alongside modern furnishings, are specially commissioned artworks by photographer Mimmo Iodice and National Geographic photographer Matthiass Klum. The upper wall of the first floor features a painting of a flock of sheep by Italian artist Stefano Arienti. This is part of the "Zegna Art" special project, initiated by the Zegna Foundation in 2012, and is permanently displayed in Ermenegildo Zegna stores worldwide.
The first floor features Ermenegildo Zegna Couture. Previously, Couture collections were typically displayed on upper floors, but this is an initiative to make Couture more accessible. This floor also offers a wide selection of accessories, including leather bags, sneakers, and sunglasses. It is a floor where architect Peter Marino's sense of style is particularly evident in the exquisite balance between metallic elements and the warmth of wood.
The second floor is dedicated to Z Zegna. The space is divided by origami pentagons created by artist Uros, a tribute to Japanese traditional culture and an homage to the Z Zegna logo's pentagonal shape. A key feature of Z Zegna is its active incorporation of unique wools like "TECHMERINO," developed in-house, and items blended with polyester.
The third floor is the "Informale" floor, offering Ermenegildo Zegna's upper casual items. This includes turtlenecks, polo shirts, casual shirts, blousons, and scarves. Notably, an "Inspiration Bench" has been installed – a bar counter where anyone, whether shopping or not, can relax. It's a space for exchanging information, enjoying drinks like coffee or sparkling wine, browsing videos and catalogs, or chatting with sales staff. Furthermore, a service offered not just at this store but increasingly elsewhere is having staff take photos of customers trying on items. This is not for commemorative purposes, but rather a personal stylist-like service born from a desire to assist with coordination.
The top floor, the fourth, is dedicated to Sartoria and the MTM room. The Sartoria floor offers dressy items such as Ermenegildo Zegna suits, jackets, trousers, and ties. Not just on this floor, but all collections change completely between the Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons. MTM, located at the back, stands for Made to Measure, which in Japan is referred to as pattern order. Ermenegildo Zegna has long called this "Sartoria." The characteristic of Sartoria is that customers can select from a wide range of fabrics woven at "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (Zegna Wool Mill)" to tailor suits, coats, and shirts that fit their exact measurements. All garments are sewn in the company's factories in Italy. The MTM room does not require a reservation; Zegna has dedicated staff for Sartoria services, making it a strength that orders can be taken at any time.
This season, the ready-to-wear suits from Ermenegildo Zegna are offered in four models: "Milano" (1999~), "Firenze" (2014~), "Torino" (2010~), and "Capri" (2015~). "Milano" features a structured silhouette with a slightly relaxed fit, conveying a classic, orthodox impression, with shoulder pads and moderate interlining. "Firenze" is the mainstream model for the Japanese market, characterized by a modern, compact silhouette and a slightly narrower lapel. Its beautiful curves and shirt sleeves offer softness around the shoulders. "Torino" has voluminous shoulder pads that create a structured chest, making it a popular model in Europe. In contrast, "Capri" is an unstructured design that eliminates lining and minimizes padding and interlining, its light feel evoking the sunny Naples of Southern Italy.
Among this season's new arrivals, the "Capri" jacket, blended with cashmere, silk, and linen, is particularly noteworthy. It strikes a fine balance between the ease of wool and the luster of silk, with the lightness characteristic of its unstructured design. The new fabric "Trofeo Mohair" is a blend of 50% superfine mohair with Zegna's iconic wool, "Trofleo." It offers elasticity, excellent wrinkle recovery, and a lustrous finish for lightweight suits. The blue and medium grey options are versatile and suitable for business settings.

In the next installment, we will explore the appeal of Sartoria with illustrator Akira Sorimachi.
















