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February 5, 2016
2016 Autumn/Winter "London Collection" Report | JOHN LOBB
JOHN LOBB
2016 Autumn/Winter "London Collection" Report
John Lobb Unveils a New Frontier of Beautiful Shoes (1)
Last year, JOHN LOBB welcomed Paula Gerbase as Artistic Director and this season, they unveiled new creations at the London Collection once again. Inspired by Dartmoor, the wetlands of southern England, what kind of beautiful shoes were on display? This is our report.
Photographs by FUJIWARA YuText by ITO Yuji
Dartmoor's Wetlands Recreated with Objects
Paula Gerbase, who revitalized the brand's appeal by redesigning its logo and imbuing its seasonal collections with the beauty of art pieces, has now set her sights on the 2016 Autumn/Winter London Collection. This season's offering is a veritable homage to the brand's roots.
Those roots, of course, trace back to the journey of founder John Lobb from his native Cornwall to London. Along this path lay Dartmoor, the wetlands of southern England's Devon county. This area, protected as a national park in the UK, is a granite-covered highland known for its primeval nature.
The exhibition venue for the 2016 Autumn/Winter collection, inspired by the landscape and nature of Dartmoor, featured rock-motif objects at the entrance, etched with the brand's newly redesigned logo. The dimly lit passage leading into the venue played the sound of storm winds as background music, creating the illusion of experiencing a part of John Lobb's own journey.
Beauty in Function, Expressed Through New Technology
Emerging from the stormy darkness into the venue, the season's new shoes were displayed atop rocks recreating the Dartmoor landscape. Naturally, these were shoes of unprecedented design, their beauty and presence drawing in visitors, making them want to examine each one up close.
Regarding this season's concept, Paula Gerbase explained, "The design wasn't for beauty's sake, but began with a re-examination of the fundamental functions a shoe should possess, such as ease of movement, durability, and comfort, from a structural perspective. In considering how to best utilize John Lobb's select, beautiful materials, the design naturally led to simplicity. However, we expressed the brand's identity, which values meticulous detail, through new technologies."
page02.Paula Gerbase's First Bespoke Collection
JOHN LOBB
2016 Autumn/Winter "London Collection" Report
John Lobb Unveils a New Frontier of Beautiful Shoes (2)
John Lobb's Dedication and Aesthetic Sensibility Reside in the Details
This collection also showcased bespoke shoes designed by Paula Gerbase for the first time. Collaborating with the Paris bespoke atelier, she created a new bespoke capsule collection named the "Artisan Series," expressing her vision of John Lobb's essence and her perspective on beauty.
While these are bespoke shoes, available only by order, the five special models on display are imbued with the quintessential "John Lobb" spirit. The iconic strap model features more delicate buckle metalwork and a slimmer, more elegant strap. Additionally, models with varied eyelet spacing offered a unique take on lace-ups, resulting in a lineup brimming with originality and creativity.
While maintaining a beautiful silhouette as footwear, the novel yet not outlandish designs evoke the words of architect Mies van der Rohe: "God is in the details." This sentiment resonates with this season's concept, embodying the ideal of craftsmanship where each part, meticulously crafted by artisans, culminates in the shoe's functionality and beauty.
This "Artisan Series" signifies John Lobb's commitment to evolving beyond its prestigious heritage by embracing contemporary sensibilities and style. The series, a harmonious fusion of quality, modern design, and the techniques to achieve them, stands as a testament to craftsmanship and artistry.
The Ready-to-Wear Collection Garnered Attention
The evolution of details is not limited to the "Artisan Series" but is also evident in the ready-to-wear collection. In our next report, we will delve into the details of the new ready-to-wear shoes, including the "Balmoral" series featuring new rubber soles, the "Alder" made with waterproof museum calf, and the "Tensile Construction" specification that pursues extreme lightness.
