The Charm of "Ryudeseine": Unbound by Rules

At the pop-up store held in October at Le Dôme ÉDIFICE Marunouchi to celebrate the launch of "rue de seine," Mr. Matsushita, the creative director, was also present. There, we had the opportunity to discuss the new suit line "rue de seine" that ÉDIFICE is newly developing.

—What are the key points for styling "Ryudeseine"?

With this brand, we've designed with the intention of allowing people to enjoy suits not just for business, but also in their daily lives. We want people to enjoy wearing suits more casually, not just when tied up with a tie. You can pair them with knits or cut-and-sew tops, or even wear the jacket and trousers separately. We'd be delighted if you explore the possibilities of dressing up that a suit offers.

—What are the design points that set these suits apart?

We've kept the design clean and universally flattering for Japanese physiques. The patterns are tailored to fit Japanese body types, and both the jackets and trousers are designed for modern wearability, yet they don't lack individuality. The short hook vent draws inspiration from French style, and the back of the jacket features darts around the shoulder blades to contour to the body's curves. If you look closely at the details, I believe even fashion enthusiasts will find them satisfying.

—How can one enjoy a more individualistic suit style?

Well, you could swap the buttons for gold metal ones to give it a blazer-like feel. As I mentioned earlier, wearing the jacket and trousers separately allows for versatile styling. For "rue de seine," we've focused on lightness and ease of wear, so the silhouette isn't extremely tight. This allows for a wide range of styling possibilities.

Connoisseurs on Enjoying Suits

Joining us for a discussion on the enjoyment of suits are Akira Ohno, editor-in-chief of MEN’S EX, and Eisuke Yamashita, fashion director of MEN’S Precious. We delve into their thoughts on the pleasure and joy of wearing suits.



—Could you start by telling us about the current trends in dress wear from the perspective of your respective publications?

Eisuke Yamashita, Fashion Director of MEN’S Precious (hereafter Yamashita)For the past few years, trends exemplified by Pitti Uomo have been shifting rapidly in terms of fabrics, patterns, and details. I feel readers are starting to get a bit tired of this pace. Their interest is turning towards items that can be cherished for longer, towards timeless value.

Akira Ohno, Editor-in-Chief of MEN’S EX (hereafter Ohno)First, as a premise, MEN’S EX believes that dress wear and suits are the most stylish attire for men. Expressing individuality within the constraints of suit formality is a sophisticated pleasure for adults. People who understand the characteristics of suits and wear them in their own way are wonderful, and I feel there are more such people nowadays.

YamashitaSimply put, we both agree that suits are a matter of personal taste, right?

OhnoYes, suits used to be the uniform for salarymen, but now they're interpreted as enjoyable attire for weekend dates. Our aim to introduce their appeal remains the same. MEN’S Precious and MEN’S EX are magazines with similar perspectives.

YamashitaHowever, since MEN’S Precious is a quarterly magazine, our approach and presentation differ from MEN’S EX, which is monthly.

OhnoThat's what makes it great. MEN’S Precious has stunning visuals. They excel at conveying quality in a calm manner. The layout isn't cluttered; they have the luxury of presenting luxurious items luxuriously, which is appealing.

YamashitaWe always respect MEN’S EX's dedication to its themes and the depth of its reporting. Their coverage of factories, in particular, is truly excellent.

—In that context, what are your impressions of this "rue de seine" line?

YamashitaMr. Matsushita's clothing has an appeal that doesn't fit into the usual contexts of Italian classic tailoring, designer brands, or character brands. I feel he doesn't approach sewing, patterns, or fabrics purely from a technical standpoint.

OhnoHe has a unique fashion philosophy that belongs nowhere and everywhere. It feels French, British, and even American. It has a very international feel.

YamashitaIt feels very urban.

Page02.A Subtle Twist Makes a Big Difference in Styling

A Subtle Twist Makes a Big Difference in Styling

YamashitaI felt the designer had a feminine sensibility, focusing on silhouette to create beauty rather than just details. There's a charming quirkiness, slightly off the beaten path of trends, that gives the clothes a timeless beauty.



YamashitaHonestly, when I first saw it, I thought it was clothing that would suit a specific type of person. It was also high-end, and the jackets didn't have vents, so the silhouette wouldn't work if your body shape changed.

OhnoHowever, the choice of fabrics and the way the patterns are cut suggest a deep understanding of vintage clothing. Living in Paris, he likely has a profound respect for the past.

YamashitaIndeed, the fabric selection for this line isn't strictly business-oriented either. Even the plain navy has a unique texture, and the houndstooth pattern's color and size convey individuality.

OhnoThe subtle twist in the fabric's texture and the choice of lining make these clothes genuinely stylish.

YamashitaEven so, with "rue de seine," he's managed to retain his signature style while creating something universally wearable and easy to style.




—Could you tell us how these pieces fit into your wardrobes and in what scenes you envision wearing them?

OhnoThey're not overly business-like, which makes them easier to wear. In an era where the occasions for wearing jackets and suits are diversifying and job roles are becoming more specialized, it can be a bit restrictive to say, 'This suit is only for business.'

YamashitaMy work doesn't require me to wear suits, so I view them more as 'everyday wear' than 'suits.'

OhnoThey seem perfect for wearing as separates, as broken suits. Styles that deviate slightly from the norm would suit them well.



YamashitaIt would be a shame to limit them to just one type of wear, wouldn't it?

—In recent years, the boundaries of suits have become blurred. Where do you draw the line?

YamashitaI'd say it's about the three-dimensionality, the tailoring. It might sound obvious, but it's about being constructed through tailoring. Business attire requires a sense of neatness, so overly assertive styles aren't suitable – think aggressive silhouettes like wide or slim fits. Perhaps, as long as that basic requirement is met, almost anything is acceptable these days.


OhnoIt varies by profession, so it's hard to generalize, but isn't a business suit one that makes you think, 'I can use this for a wide range of situations'? For important meetings, negotiations, or meeting the CEO, you need a suit that makes you feel, 'This is the one.'

YamashitaThat sentiment seems to be leaning more towards casual wear lately, doesn't it?

OhnoYes. For people in professions with a high degree of dress code freedom, "rue de seine" is excellent. Amidst so many suits that are too conventional and lack character, this line offers that while projecting an active image. It feels very contemporary.

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Akira OHNO
Born in 1973. After graduating from university, he joined World Culture Publishing, Inc. After working on the editorial teams of "MEN’S EX," "KATEIGAHO," and "Begin," he became Editor-in-Chief of "MEN’S EX" in 2013.

Eisuke YAMASHITA
Fashion Director of MEN'S Precious. After working as an editor for men's fashion magazines and as a freelance editor, he currently serves as Fashion Director for "MEN'S Precious."