Different, Yet Stylish

"At Isetan Men's, dress shoes and classic styles are preferred, but I've always been interested in highly designed, couture pieces. For this shoe expo, Yokoo's creations are truly symbolic of the theme. They possess a unique design that is different, yet stylish. I was drawn to the passion and power they convey," explains the Isetan Men's buyer who curated the "JAPAN Shoe Expo 2015."

Where does the distinctiveness and stylishness of Yokoo's shoes originate?

The Path to Handmade Shoemaking

"I wanted to be an architect and was studying architecture when I visited a friend in the UK several times. During those visits, I became interested in learning shoemaking. So, I enrolled in a foundation course at an art college in London, looked for shoe schools, and transferred to one," says Yokoo.

The Cordwainers College she attended is a prestigious institution that produced Jimmy Choo and Patrick Cox. "Cordwainers is a design-focused school, but I wanted to learn the fundamentals, so I focused on the basics. After a year there, I went to Italy to visit Ars Sutoria, a renowned shoe school in Milan, but the tuition was too high, so I gave up. I returned to Japan and got a job at a leather fashion consulting firm."

However, she couldn't make shoes at that company. Wanting to "create the shoes I love," she began preparing her own studio. "I've never worked for a shoe manufacturer, so while working part-time, I started gathering machinery on my own. But I didn't have enough time to dedicate to shoemaking, and I remained unsatisfied."

It was then that she met Chihiro Yamaguchi of Guild. "I learned handmade shoemaking as a first-term student at Guild Footwear College. Yamaguchi-san then offered me a teaching position, and while assisting with the semi-bespoke brand 'Hall & Marks,' my confidence in handmade work grew. Around 2003, I began making shoes on my own in earnest," Yokoo recalls.

Shoes No One Has Seen Before, Impossible to Make by Machine

What's remarkable about Yokoo is that she has handled all the design sketches since her school days in London until going independent. "I've always drawn designs. Initially, I created sculptural, haute couture women's shoes, but through trial and error, I received advice that 'there's more demand for men's shoes in handmade,' so I started working on men's bespoke orders. However, men's shoes were challenging. I had to strip everything down to the design. I struggled with it for a long time."

Yokoo disliked the standard bespoke process that adjusts to foot size and shape. She started with the goal of creating "haute couture shoes that match clothing." When asked about her objective, she replies, "What can be achieved with handmade techniques combined with design?"

"I was unsatisfied with ready-to-wear (off-the-rack) and primarily exhibited overseas. Only in the last two to three years have Japanese department stores started to take notice," she says with a smile.

One-of-a-Kind for Those Whose Size Fits

Designer Nao Yokoo was delighted when approached by a buyer about participating in "JAPAN Shoe Expo 2015." Two pairs from her brand "Le Parrain" will be exhibited, along with two pairs from her couture brand "Nao Yokoo Arts & Artisan."

The brand "Le Parrain" has existed since Yokoo began shoemaking and means "godfather" in French. Meanwhile, the couture brand "Nao Yokoo Arts & Artisan" typically operates on an order basis. All shoes presented at "JAPAN Shoe Expo 2015" are one-of-a-kind. "This time, my theme was 'How much can I express with black leather?'" says Yokoo.

When asked about the appeal of men's shoes, she replies, "Designing within limitations is interesting. I can do as much as I want with women's shoes, but I never realized how enjoyable the process of adding and subtracting could be, where a single line can change the entire expression within constraints."

Create What You Want, Exhibit the Shoes You Desire

"For the shoe expo, I wanted to express myself through black leather, so under the concept 'Black Brothers,' I created four pairs: my first to fourth sons. There are two pairs in the elegance line and two in the robust line. Isetan Men's told me, 'Create what you want, exhibit the shoes you desire,' so all four pairs are new designs, each one-of-a-kind."

When asked about her impression of the Isetan Men's shoe floor, Yokoo says, "It's a wonderful space with many dress shoes. I thought perhaps only famous brands were featured."

Regarding the shoe expo project, she exclaims, "It's finally happening! I've been working hard to change the world of shoes, making everything from samples to finished products by hand in my studio. I want many people to see them."



<JAPAN Shoe Expo 2015 Exhibitors>
bibliotek, COLUMBUS, DAITA KIMURA, Desertic, ENTOAN, HIROSHI TSUBOUCHI, H? Katsukawa From Tokyo, JOJO, JOLI, Kids Love Gaite, MADRAS, makoto taguchi, Marquess, MIHARAYASUHIRO, Nao Yokoo, Otsuka, PERFETTO, REGAL, Salon, SCOTCH GRAIN, SNTORII, SPINGLE MOVE, SUN/kakke, UNION IMPERIAL, YOHEI FUKUDA, Teppei Yoshimi, Mincheol Kang

"JAPAN Shoe Expo 2015"
Period: Wednesday, October 28th - Tuesday, November 10th, 2015
Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building B1F - Men's Shoes
3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo